this is sort of a non-G35 question, but something that happened to my 2005 Xterra - thought maybe someone could help.

I live in upstate NY - temps have been ranging in the teens. I decided to put a can of Dry Gas in my Xterra last night (gas tank was about half). I drove it home about 5minutes after putting the dry gas in. Everything is fine. This morning I get in my Xterra - fuel gauge is showing empty with the empty gas light on. I quickly went to the gas station to fill it up, only took $14 to fill up so I know it's not empty.

Anyone know why this would be - is my gauge hosed or could the dry gas have screwed it up and do you think it will self correct or should I bring it to the mechnanic?


Thanks,

 

Never used dry gas myself but haven't heard good things about it... it may have screwed your sensor.

 

I have never heard of dry gas, I would look into that

 

got in the car this morning and now the gauge is working - no idea what happened... thanks for the help.

 

I know this is an old thread now however I thought I'd interject for anyone searching.. "Dry Gas" type additives are Methanol. The Meth disperses the water in gasoline. It is also flammable and raises the octane a little. (not to be used as an octane buster because it has no oils in it)
Usually the problem that the OP is asking about is dirty sending units which can be temporarily cleaned using Techron additive, and running Chevron w/techron gas. This problem plagues many different kinds of cars... specially the vettes.

 

I've been having an issue lately with my 2004 G35 SC gas gauge. Seems it reads gas unreliably, often telling me there is less gas then there actually is in the car. The dealer says the cluster is not ohming (?) correctly and that I need a new cluster (all the gauges on the dashboard). I'm not believing that. I think there's a simpler explanation... any ideas...? I've seen something on this thread about dirty sending units..... how can I try to clean those to see if it fixes the problem...

 

i was just wondering if you have found out how to fix your gas gauge mine has been reading empty for a long time now even when full

 

This worked for me: (I tried this just now and it worked like a charm) All you have to do is clean up the fuel sensors.

This is from another post, fixed it a bit for it to be more understandable, but it worked like a charm:

Easy!
1. Lift up your rear seat and pull it upward to release the latches. The back seat should come right out.
2. remove the seat out from the car
3. there are two caps, remove the passenger side cap, 4 black tabs you need to turn. Use a screw driver. "x" type screw driver
4. Disconnect wires.
5. Disconnect fuel line (be careful it'll spray some fuel that is pressured in the line!!!). Dont worry it's not much. It will stop quickly. Use a rag to cover while disconnecting so the fuel does not get in you face.
6. Use rag to clean up excess fuel spillage.
7. Then take out all six screws and put them some where safe!
8. Lift the whole fuel thing out, it might take some skills to help maneuver the unit out...
9. Clean the fuel level sensor with a q tip... (use a few of them)
(The fuel level sensor should be next to the floating assembly arm, you should be able to tell. It looks like a graph type thing. Haha.)
10. After this, reverse the steps and you should be good to go. Hope this helps"

PROPS to GR6RR for this DIY trick.

 

Thanks for the heads up gat! I haven't been able to try this yet. Although I wanted to ask~ Whats your current mileage? I too have the same problem, but I'm not too intrigued to spend $250+ for new sensors and o-rings (unless necessary)- if q-tips will do the job effectively.

 

I have yet to test out filling up the tank. I do drive 90% city and 10% highway if you could call it that. I did 100 miles this last week, with around half a tank. I am a 5AT, with mods (Intake, spacer, exhaust, headers...), no tune yet, still have to change the front lower control arm bushings. So I should be doing better once all that is addressed. It is all costly though... Once I am done I am hoping to go around ~300 miles a tank. hopefully. lol.

 

Prior to changing my spark plugs, adding camber kit, alignment, etc... I did around 120 miles a tank. lol. I once did almost 200 miles driving slowly the whole week. I have not had a chance to really test it out since everything was changed.. I am trying to change and fix all I can prior to doing a real mpg test.

 

my fuel gauge pointed straight down (6 o'clock position) and stayed there when the car key was in the on or off position. So with forum advise I cleaned both fuel gauges, and then the gauge started to respond when the car key was turned on by moving from the 6 o'clock position counter-clockwise, but would hit the black protruding pin that is below the E for "empty" and stop there: about the 4:30 o'clock position (with key off it returned to the 6 o'clock position).
Took it to the dealer and they said they had to take off the instrument cluster to get to the gauge and fix it (the service manager said he was not sure how gauge was fixed but thought that the pin was removed temporarily to let the gauge get past it and then put back in). Good news: fuel gauge had been working fine thru 2 gas tank cycles. Bad news: charge was $375. Can't help but wonder if a small hole in the clear plastic gauge cover would have allowed a wire to be inserted and move the gauge clock-wise to get it to the other side of the pin with key in the off position.