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#46
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There's a member by the name of 4080 that custom makes those boxes. PM him.
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'06 G35 Coupe| 6MT| IP| Premium| Aero| Nav| XM| OEM Mudguards| Z-Tube| K&N Filter| 350Z Tein H-Techs| Volk SF Challenges| Rotora 355mm 6 pot/4 pot BBK | XPEL Clear Bra| Clear Corners| 20% Tint| Gialla Grill| Infinity Kappas| JL 500/1| JL 10W6v2| JL Bass Control| 4080 Box| Damplifier
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#47
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I think this should be stickied in the Audio DIY section! I've been looking all over the forum for instructions on installing an aftermarket amp/sub, and the search feature in this forum isn't the best around!
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2005 BS Sedan 6MT - 2005 Kawasaki ZX6R |
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#48
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How much harder would a 2-gauge power wire be than a 4-gauge? I wanted to run the 500/1 amp and add a 300/4 down the road.
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2005 DG 6MT - MREV2 - 5/16th ISO Thermal Spacer - Coolant Bypass - Z-Tube - K&N - V1 Hardwire - GTech Pro - KPTech Window Rollup - Clear Corners - High Power Leds - Phillips Bluevision Fogs - 18% Llumar Stealth |
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#49
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The larger gauge shouldn't be any harder to run if you get a flexible piece. I'd get a distribution block since you plan to have 2 amps and use the correct gauge to branch from the distribution block to the amps.
I'm happy to see that dr6 tapped into the Bose head unit signal BEFORE it reaches the Bose amp. Tapping into the speaker leads AFTER the Bose amp will add unwanted Bose equalizing. For you guys that have an installer do this install for you, make sure they tap into the signal BEFORE the amp. They probably don't know about the sound EQ shaping that the Bose amp does. I have come across a couple of installers who planned to just tap into the rear 6x9 signals before they were advised of the shortcomings.
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Sean Florida G Club '03.5 Caribbean Blue 5at Sedan w/ a few mods, '04 Laser Red 6mt Coupe w/ more mods, 06 FX35 bone stock |
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#50
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sweet setup man
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SFL G Club / Team Rare JDM
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#51
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Quote:
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~2004 G35 Coupe - Ivory Pearl, Auto, Nav, Bose, Blacked Out Windows, 18" rims, USA SPEC Pa11-NIS. & 2005 FX35 AWD - Ivory Pearl, Touring Package~ "Eating and sleeping are the only activities that should be allowed to interrupt a man's enjoyment of his cigar." -Mark Twain
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#52
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can someone with Mod power move this thread to DIY section?? A lot more people will find this wonderful DIY! Great write up!
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04 Coupe 6MT DG brembo, thats all you need to know.. |
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#53
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Quote:
__________________
2005 DG 6MT - MREV2 - 5/16th ISO Thermal Spacer - Coolant Bypass - Z-Tube - K&N - V1 Hardwire - GTech Pro - KPTech Window Rollup - Clear Corners - High Power Leds - Phillips Bluevision Fogs - 18% Llumar Stealth |
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#54
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Quote:
__________________
~2004 G35 Coupe - Ivory Pearl, Auto, Nav, Bose, Blacked Out Windows, 18" rims, USA SPEC Pa11-NIS. & 2005 FX35 AWD - Ivory Pearl, Touring Package~ "Eating and sleeping are the only activities that should be allowed to interrupt a man's enjoyment of his cigar." -Mark Twain
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#55
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I had my setup installed at a Circuit City. I think they ran the signal from the app. Reason being was the signal was just not strong enough from the HU. The first time I got the car back when they were done, it was clearly not loud enough (for the apps that I had installed). The signal was weak even when I turned up the app gain. When they went post bose amp, it was much better. however, there is that EQ issue. Mainly I hear it in the mid range area on some vocal's. And only depending on which notes they hit. most the time its ok at regular listening levels.
I have an 03' Sedan. I really need to change out the HU, but the cost is pissing me off. I have a question for any one that has at least 500W RMS of amps in there ride. Do you lose any power when your bass is up a lot? Meaning from the car itself. Such as hitting the gas, and feeling any jerkiness to the flow? At normal 50+ MPH speeds I don't notice it. only at low city speeds does it seem to be there. I have a total of about 1400W RMS in Amps. I have a 3 Farad cap (which should be sufficient for 3,000 Watts peak). I noticed that at heavy hits, the voltage goes do the low 12v and can go to 11.8v at worst. Normal voltage reads about 14.2-14.5v. I don't know if that is a lot. Maybe a bigger battery, or alternator? Or is even a bigger cap in order? |
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#56
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Nope, i don't have those problems. I have about (450+500+150=1100) amps of power, plus a car computer, along with a 1 farad cap, and no problems.
I do run some pretty heavy wire back to my amps (0 gauge), along with a good grounding kit in the engine bay to preclude any power loss along those lines, so maybe that has helped? Also, I have an 05; do you know if the alternator is stronger in the 05's than the 03's? Just a guess. |
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#57
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Quote:
What wiring gauge are you using?
__________________
2005 DG 6MT - MREV2 - 5/16th ISO Thermal Spacer - Coolant Bypass - Z-Tube - K&N - V1 Hardwire - GTech Pro - KPTech Window Rollup - Clear Corners - High Power Leds - Phillips Bluevision Fogs - 18% Llumar Stealth |
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#58
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I believe 4 from the battery, one 2 way fuse box (it was a Tsunami Wiring kit for 1500 Watt systems I think).
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#59
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Upgrade your "big 3".
A battery will do nothing for the problem you're having.
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Russ 2003 OB 6MT Navi Aero Coupe 379whp Turbonetics | Fujitsubo | Crawford | Volk | Alpine | JL | 4080 | AVelectronics | V1 |
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#60
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Quote:
What kind and how many amps do you have? Do they accept a balanced input signal? If not, that may be part of the problem.
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Sean Florida G Club '03.5 Caribbean Blue 5at Sedan w/ a few mods, '04 Laser Red 6mt Coupe w/ more mods, 06 FX35 bone stock |
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| Tags |
| 06, 350z, add, amp, bose, coupe, diy, g35, install, located, radio, remote, subwoofer, system, wire |
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