SQ Competition Install in '07 G35c...(56k go to SPL)
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SQ Competition Install in '07 G35c...(56k go to SPL)
UPDATE: COMPLETED SYSTEM ON PAGE 2
Well, after months of planning and mourning over my totaled 2004 G35c's system, I have started the new install. I will be competing in IASCA SQ (sound quality). This thread will be updated whenever I work on the install. Let me know what you guys think, or if you have any questions.
First off a little background on myself...
I'm an audio engineering major at the University of Miami ("Suntan U", or "Da U"). I have been designing and installing car stereo systems since I was a freshman in high school, now I am a senior in college. I finally managed to snag Tru Technology, http://www.trutechnology.com as my amplifier sponsor which I am thrilled about.
Ok well the first install round is the sound dampening. I used stuff from second skin, http://www.secondskinaudio.com. I used their damplifier on the floor, inner doorskins, trunk and roof, and I used damplifier pro on the outer doorskins. I used overkill pro foam on all the surfaces.
Since the car was such a PITA to tear apart, I also ran the speaker wire, remote wire, interconnects, and power wire while the interior was out of the car.
First off, the workbench in my garage, and all the wires...amazing that this all ended up fitting inside the tiny G cockpit:
Here is the inner doorskin with the damplifier installed:
Here's the outer doorskin with the damplifer pro:
Here's the roof. Its amazing how little room their is for the sunroof:
Driver's side:
Under the Backseat:
The trunk, after I cut off all the tire and jack mounts:
The overkill pro foam installed over the damplifier using there spray adhesive, which is pretty much 3m super 90:
The trunk with the overkill:
The 1/0 awg power wire run. The wire is inside of flexo pet wire loom (thanks to Milox for the idea):
The battery with the knukonceptz battery connectors. This is a tricky install because of the location of the factory fuse. I had to use an extra nut and bold and extender wire to connect the factory power wire to the battery:
The 200 Amp fuse mounted next to the battery:
The new ground by the battery:
Well coming up next is the Clarion Drz-9255 install as well as satellite radio, and PAC steering wheel controls.
You can check my photo album for even more install photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalhifi/
Well, after months of planning and mourning over my totaled 2004 G35c's system, I have started the new install. I will be competing in IASCA SQ (sound quality). This thread will be updated whenever I work on the install. Let me know what you guys think, or if you have any questions.
First off a little background on myself...
I'm an audio engineering major at the University of Miami ("Suntan U", or "Da U"). I have been designing and installing car stereo systems since I was a freshman in high school, now I am a senior in college. I finally managed to snag Tru Technology, http://www.trutechnology.com as my amplifier sponsor which I am thrilled about.
Ok well the first install round is the sound dampening. I used stuff from second skin, http://www.secondskinaudio.com. I used their damplifier on the floor, inner doorskins, trunk and roof, and I used damplifier pro on the outer doorskins. I used overkill pro foam on all the surfaces.
Since the car was such a PITA to tear apart, I also ran the speaker wire, remote wire, interconnects, and power wire while the interior was out of the car.
First off, the workbench in my garage, and all the wires...amazing that this all ended up fitting inside the tiny G cockpit:
Here is the inner doorskin with the damplifier installed:
Here's the outer doorskin with the damplifer pro:
Here's the roof. Its amazing how little room their is for the sunroof:
Driver's side:
Under the Backseat:
The trunk, after I cut off all the tire and jack mounts:
The overkill pro foam installed over the damplifier using there spray adhesive, which is pretty much 3m super 90:
The trunk with the overkill:
The 1/0 awg power wire run. The wire is inside of flexo pet wire loom (thanks to Milox for the idea):
The battery with the knukonceptz battery connectors. This is a tricky install because of the location of the factory fuse. I had to use an extra nut and bold and extender wire to connect the factory power wire to the battery:
The 200 Amp fuse mounted next to the battery:
The new ground by the battery:
Well coming up next is the Clarion Drz-9255 install as well as satellite radio, and PAC steering wheel controls.
You can check my photo album for even more install photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalhifi/
Last edited by digitalhifinet; 08-27-2007 at 09:47 PM.
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Okay, so I made the baffles out of 1/2" MDF for the kicks. Notice how they are flushed in with enough of a gap to allow for vinyl and speaker grilles. I also rabbited out just a little it of an outside edge to allow for the fiberglass mold fabric to fit flush. I think I went through about 3 sets of baffles before I got these right...but w00t they are done.
Coming up next is moving the ECU and Midbass install
Coming up next is moving the ECU and Midbass install
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UPDATE 8/5/07 version motorize things
So I know I promised a midbass install, but I still need the install the amps so that I have some form of music in my car on the way to work. So I have been building the subwoofer box and the motorized rack for the fuse block and 15 farad capacitor, as well as trying to come up with the final design for the amp rack.
Here is the motorized rack under construction. It's really hard to try and make a shelf level and straight in a car with so many curves and horrible mounting surfaces.
The sub box under construction. The pieces in the clamps are the standoffs for the box. The box is for the Jl Audio 13w7, and it is bottom firing. Its a sealed box with a trapezoidal shape and a half inch thick plexiglass window so you can see the sub.
Check these babies out! The Tru Technology billet series, B-2110, B-475, and B-2200. The 2110 will power the mid bass drives in the doors. The B-475 will feed the mids and tweets and the 2200 will be all over the sub.
The other possible set up for the amp rack, with the metal cover on the 2200 replaced with clear plexi, exposing the internals.
The whole mock up shebang. Notice the plexi window so you can see the 13w7 up close.
I will be getting my fiberglass this week, so keep an eye out for kickpanels and amps racks later this week.
So I know I promised a midbass install, but I still need the install the amps so that I have some form of music in my car on the way to work. So I have been building the subwoofer box and the motorized rack for the fuse block and 15 farad capacitor, as well as trying to come up with the final design for the amp rack.
Here is the motorized rack under construction. It's really hard to try and make a shelf level and straight in a car with so many curves and horrible mounting surfaces.
The sub box under construction. The pieces in the clamps are the standoffs for the box. The box is for the Jl Audio 13w7, and it is bottom firing. Its a sealed box with a trapezoidal shape and a half inch thick plexiglass window so you can see the sub.
Check these babies out! The Tru Technology billet series, B-2110, B-475, and B-2200. The 2110 will power the mid bass drives in the doors. The B-475 will feed the mids and tweets and the 2200 will be all over the sub.
The other possible set up for the amp rack, with the metal cover on the 2200 replaced with clear plexi, exposing the internals.
The whole mock up shebang. Notice the plexi window so you can see the 13w7 up close.
I will be getting my fiberglass this week, so keep an eye out for kickpanels and amps racks later this week.
Last edited by digitalhifinet; 08-05-2007 at 09:12 PM.
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Originally Posted by JTO
Did you run new speaker wire into the door? Ive been thinking about doing this but not sure how hard its going to be. Also the panel to get to the out door skin just unbolts then comes off?
The panel on the inner door skin just unbolts, but be careful, because you have to mess around with the window slider to take that panel off. If you are careful, take your time, and have some mechanical finagling ability, you should be fine.
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UPDATE 8/16/2007
Ok, not too many pics, but it's finally almost done. I've been working 10 hour days on this since last Saturday. The system should be done this coming Saturday (God, I hope so).
First off the midbass install is done. The Morel Elate SW6 was nestled into the doors using a custom cut baffle that I fitted with T-nuts to ensure a ridiculously tight mount.
I also finished up the grounding work today. This sits right next to the subwoofer box, mounted on the Chassis rails.
Well, that's all of the pictures I have for you tonight. As of right now, the subwoofer box is complete and mounted. The amp rack is finished, and the two smaller, Tru amps are mounted and wired up. I still need to finish the false floor and wire the retractable motorized drawer, as well as build the kick panels. I hope I can do it in 20 hours. Stay tuned, final system pics should be coming up early next week
Ok, not too many pics, but it's finally almost done. I've been working 10 hour days on this since last Saturday. The system should be done this coming Saturday (God, I hope so).
First off the midbass install is done. The Morel Elate SW6 was nestled into the doors using a custom cut baffle that I fitted with T-nuts to ensure a ridiculously tight mount.
I also finished up the grounding work today. This sits right next to the subwoofer box, mounted on the Chassis rails.
Well, that's all of the pictures I have for you tonight. As of right now, the subwoofer box is complete and mounted. The amp rack is finished, and the two smaller, Tru amps are mounted and wired up. I still need to finish the false floor and wire the retractable motorized drawer, as well as build the kick panels. I hope I can do it in 20 hours. Stay tuned, final system pics should be coming up early next week