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Old 01-28-2009, 12:46 AM
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component speaker suggestions

I am in the middle of looking around for some component speakers for my 05 G35. Has stock bose right now. I do plan on putting in 1 Orion HCCA 12.2 sub, along with adding an AVIC F90BT head unit. I have been thinking about using the RE Audio XXX6.5c in there, just do not know if that is what I want to do. I was going to go with Elemental Designs, but the speakers that I would use from them will be going up to over $300 per set when I am ready to buy them. So I am looking for suggestions from anyone and everyone. The only thing is this, they need to be able to get down and dirty to hang with the HCCA 12.2 so they would need to be high powered. Not to worried about price, I can work with and around the price.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:44 AM
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Dude, you just tried giving me a lesson in caps. you should have an idea of what you're looking for. You do know you're going to get people's opinions on what they think will sound good. Why not do some research yourself, narrow your options down. Go listen to the speakers then buy. It's the way I've always done it. Look at the sensitivity rating if you're looking to destroy them.
If your sub is going to make the music bass heavy I'd recommend going with a 3 way component system. That way you'll get rich mids, distinguished highs, and rounded off lows. I'm biased towards focal so look at systems like 165KRX3. and run them of a 2 channel amp, and dispose of any rear speakers as your sound stage will be set. HOWEVER, that said, be prepared for door panel fibreglassing.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:48 AM
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No did not try, from your post it did not sound like you knew what a cap was for. Asking about speakers, because I am torn between 3 different sets. So I am looking for some other options. Troy not to sound like an a$$, but I already have give it some research, more than you think, way more. 3 way comps are not needed, sorry I know what I am doing. Focal is overpriced as so is anything from JL. Fiberglassing out of the question.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:07 PM
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Listen. Don't bother with the XXX components. There is a reason that they sell for so cheap and are on sale everywhere at the same time. Do yourself a favor and get a set of
DLS UP6i's for that price and you will be much happier. Or if you have the ability to go active, get a set of Ascendent Audio mids and Seas Neo tweets and you have a kick *** setup for 2 bills
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:28 PM
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manbeer, thanks for the input, I never did consider going active. I will look into Ascendent Audio and Seas. But now that you mention it, the XXX set does go on sale everywhere at the same time though. Never really thought that much about it.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:26 PM
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When i first saw them on sale it was like 300 bucks brought down from 750 or something and i was like "oh wow, great deal, they must be good cause they are XXX and cost alot"
and almost ordered them. I went and read as much as i could and the general consensus seemed to be that they just had a "weird" sound to them, kind of muddy with a lot of midbass. The Seas textile domes are like 35 dollars a piece and i believe the AA mids are 120 for a pair. They aren't listed on the site but there is a guy named Brian Owens who should be the dealer nearest you. Another good option would be the Image Dynamics OEM mids that have been floating around most of the car audio forums for the past year or so. A high end boat manufacturer had them made and they turned out a little too deep or something. As a result you can get them new for 90 dollars a pair, less than half of what the normal ID mids sell for

Active is really the best way to go if you are able to do it. Most X-Overs have a fairly high crossover point with the mainstream components, and with the 6.5"s low in the door and tweeters up in the sail panels it is nice to be able to run a lower X-Over point (if the chosen tweeter is capable of it) to raise the soundstage up a bit
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:38 PM
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I just read that ID offers no warranty, so I will not be using them at all. Just do not like the idea of possibly getting a speaker that is DOA and the manufacturer will not do anything about it. That would suck being out any money since they offer no warranty anymore. So I decided to look into Polk Audio and see what they offer and ran accross the MM6501 6.5", they had great reviews every where that I found them on the net. I can get them for about $190 per set as well, the MSRP is $349.95, so that would be a sweet deal. I would be getting 2 sets of these, 1 for the front and 1 for the rear, pairing them with an Orion HCCA 12.2 sub. Now to find amps, 1 mono block, and 1 4 channel. Manbeer thanks for the input, you got my mind working on this again.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:48 PM
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First, why do you need something that requires lots of power? I don't get why people think that more power means louder. I guess efficiency has been thrown out the window. There used to be a time when speakers required such little power, but sounded great and got loud. Why? Because they were efficient.

As for advising against the RE XXX's, I don't know why one recommend that. They are a good set, however, the mids are quite huge so good luck fitting them in the doors.

ID doesn't have a warranty? Yes they do. As for warranty/non warranty items, if you know how to use your equipment, there is no need for a warranty. 99% of equipment failure is due to the user not using it properly. There is VERY, I mean VERY small percentages where products come from the manufacturer not working properly. Also, manufacturers do test their products before sending them out, they don't just make it and ship it out.

Going active would be the way to go if you know what you're doing. It's not as simple as connecting a speaker directly to an amplifier. You need to know where to set crossover points, what slopes to use, etc. You can turn a great driver into a horrible sounding one with improper tuning.

I was actually going to recommend ID comps, they are very nice sounding. Crystal Mobile Sound makes some really nice comps, but they are properly hard to find. In all honesty, it really depends on your personal tastes. I had a set of DLS Iridiums and they did not please me. They are known for their warm sound and it was purely evident.

Best set of comps I ever owned were Zapco CK 16.2's. I loved them and wish I didn't have to sell them. In all honesty it's best to go listen to different sets. It's best not to just hear it on a soundboard but in a vehicle as well. The Hertz Hi-Energy's aren't too bad either. If going the active route and if you want to go the DIY route as well, check out the mids and tweeters at www.zaphaudio.com for reviews.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:32 PM
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That is correct, no longer having a warranty, unless if I misread it. I had to read it fast, I was at work. If they do still have a warranty then it is less than their already ridiculous 90 days. I am not worried about me killing the speakers, it was more of an issue of what if I get one that is DOA (dead on arrival), which is my main concern. I actually bought some speakers in the past that were DOA. Did not know about the mids not fitting into our doors, that sucks. Since RE has a very good rep. As for DLS, I have not heard them for myself at all, but have heard great things about them. The Polk Audio MM6501 is considered due to the MOMO line getting harder and harder to find right now. That and all the reviews that I have seen have been great, even when under powering them with 50X4 on them. So it is not like that take much power to get moving, but they can take some power though seeing how that they are 125watts rms. That and Polk has a great rep as well. I do not think the wife would like me spending the money for the Iridiums, other wise this discussion would not be going on.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:41 PM
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If you get a speaker that is DOA from ID, i'm sure they will handle it. They are great guys.

As for speakers, I had my Iridiums and Zapco's on a PDX 4.150 with the gain pretty much all the way down. They had to keep up with an 18" sub and easily did..and that's with getitng 3,000w...not pyle status, pure RF t30001bd underrated 3,000w. I went the active route. It's very important to find speakers that don't require tons of power, IMO.
 
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by donpisto
If you get a speaker that is DOA from ID, i'm sure they will handle it. They are great guys.

As for speakers, I had my Iridiums and Zapco's on a PDX 4.150 with the gain pretty much all the way down. They had to keep up with an 18" sub and easily did..and that's with getitng 3,000w...not pyle status, pure RF t30001bd underrated 3,000w. I went the active route. It's very important to find speakers that don't require tons of power, IMO.
Funny, the last set of DLS we did was also off a PDX 4.150, mated with 2 10" Icons and 2 PDX 1.1000's. They also had no problem keeping up. New setup in the works will consist of 8" Peerless SLS for midbass, with Dynaudio MD142 dome mids and Seas Reference RT27'S. 2 Zuki Eleets for power, one bridged to the midbass and one running the mids and highs
 
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:21 AM
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Heh..I'll be going with a 3 way active setup. Gonna go with either 8" or 10" SLS's in the doors. Was gonna use the Zapco CK's in the kicks but now I gotta see what I'm gonna do. Was gonna have a Zapco 9.0 running the sub, 4.0 for the mids and tweeters, and 3.0 for the midbass...all that's gotta wait now
 
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by donpisto
Heh..I'll be going with a 3 way active setup. Gonna go with either 8" or 10" SLS's in the doors. Was gonna use the Zapco CK's in the kicks but now I gotta see what I'm gonna do. Was gonna have a Zapco 9.0 running the sub, 4.0 for the mids and tweeters, and 3.0 for the midbass...all that's gotta wait now
yeah i remember reading that you had all those zapco's, can't wait to see what you finally come up with. Still have that 15w6?
 
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by manbeer
yeah i remember reading that you had all those zapco's, can't wait to see what you finally come up with. Still have that 15w6?
Yep. sub is goin nowhere
 
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