How To Install A Sub In A G sedan Using Stock Bose System
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Yes, you can plug any 4-ohm sub into it, but the factory amp is so weak, you're never going to get much out of it. It'll likely be even worse than the factory sub (yes, that is possible).
I'd recommend a little 8" woofer that does well in an infinite baffle setup, and give it a small 100w amp if you are definitely against a small ported box in the trunk.
I'd recommend a little 8" woofer that does well in an infinite baffle setup, and give it a small 100w amp if you are definitely against a small ported box in the trunk.
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Also worth installing that I didn't include would be a PAC LC-1. Basically it goes in line between the line out converter and your amp and allows you to reduce the signal to 0 to the amp in case you want to turn the bass down without having to use the radio settings which would affect all the speakers in the car as well.
If you aren't a bass head, I would DEFINITELY install one of these. You can adjust the bass on the radio until the interiors sound good to you, your sub amp gains can be set to max(before clipping/distorting) and you can use this **** to adjust the RCA signal getting to the amp, which in turn lowers the "volume" you hear out the sub. A win all around!
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-remo...skuId=9046105#
If you aren't a bass head, I would DEFINITELY install one of these. You can adjust the bass on the radio until the interiors sound good to you, your sub amp gains can be set to max(before clipping/distorting) and you can use this **** to adjust the RCA signal getting to the amp, which in turn lowers the "volume" you hear out the sub. A win all around!
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-remo...skuId=9046105#
#239
I wanted to update this thread with my experience. My plan was to install a JL 8w6 dual voice coil sub with a 250/1 JL amp to stock head unit. I followed the instructions and spliced into the stock sub wire harness with the LOC. My amp turned on, but my sub barely moved. My sub was getting power but there was little excursion almost if it was way under powered. I took it to a local stereo shop and for $45 they told me I had to splice into the left and right full range speaker in my car. Don't ask me why cause everything he said went over my head. He recommended the rear speakers because they tend to be full range. However, Crutchfield list the rears as subs the same for the fronts not including the tweeters. So, I used this helpful thread https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...rams-pics.html found the rear pos/neg wires to the left/right rear speakers and reconnected the LOC accordingly. To my amazement the sub hits like it should. If you are experiencing the same symptoms PM me and I can get back to you the exact wires I spliced into.
#240
I wanted to update this thread with my experience. My plan was to install a JL 8w6 dual voice coil sub with a 250/1 JL amp to stock head unit. I followed the instructions and spliced into the stock sub wire harness with the LOC. My amp turned on, but my sub barely moved. My sub was getting power but there was little excursion almost if it was way under powered. I took it to a local stereo shop and for $45 they told me I had to splice into the left and right full range speaker in my car. Don't ask me why cause everything he said went over my head. He recommended the rear speakers because they tend to be full range. However, Crutchfield list the rears as subs the same for the fronts not including the tweeters. So, I used this helpful thread https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...rams-pics.html found the rear pos/neg wires to the left/right rear speakers and reconnected the LOC accordingly. To my amazement the sub hits like it should. If you are experiencing the same symptoms PM me and I can get back to you the exact wires I spliced into.
Did you adjust you amps input sensativity and gain to see if that would help?