Wrathernaut's Double-Din Installation FAQ, Shopping and Resource List
#1921
Swi-rc?
so my 06 came with the Bose system, and I'm tryin to add the SWI-RC, but my harness does not look like any of the G35 harnesses I've seen for this install. In fact, according to the instructions, I'm supposed to tap red, yellow, and green from harness, but there are two green wires in my harness. (Assuming I have the right harness). Which green wire to tap, solid or green and white?
or am I accessing the wrong harness?
or am I accessing the wrong harness?
#1922
so my 06 came with the Bose system, and I'm tryin to add the SWI-RC, but my harness does not look like any of the G35 harnesses I've seen for this install. In fact, according to the instructions, I'm supposed to tap red, yellow, and green from harness, but there are two green wires in my harness. (Assuming I have the right harness). Which green wire to tap, solid or green and white?
or am I accessing the wrong harness?
or am I accessing the wrong harness?
See reply below.
Last edited by Wrathernaut; 12-29-2016 at 01:30 AM.
#1923
#1924
The m39 harness looks like this. Your three wires are front and center of the photo.
The harness doesn't plug into anything with an aftermarket radio installed, so best option is to cut it and solder for the most reliable connection. It make the wired remote more consistent having that solder joint vs. crimp, since the wired remote works based on varying the resistance, and having a bad connection varies the resistance as well.
#1925
#1926
Center Console Removal
Hello all. I've finally decided to go through with this, and replace the stock HU with an aftermarket unit in my '06 MT coupe.
One thing that I'm attempting is to run my usb interface cables to the cubby underneath the center console armrest, next to the auxiliary power jack. I don't want them dangling out from the side of the console, glovebox, or cupholder. I've seen this done in other places, but I'm not able to see how to remove the actual top-half of the console to get access to the cubby. I can lift it up enough to access 2 molex plugs, but that's as far as I can get.
Is there anyone here who can give me some advice on removing the center console? This is driving me batty! Thanks.
One thing that I'm attempting is to run my usb interface cables to the cubby underneath the center console armrest, next to the auxiliary power jack. I don't want them dangling out from the side of the console, glovebox, or cupholder. I've seen this done in other places, but I'm not able to see how to remove the actual top-half of the console to get access to the cubby. I can lift it up enough to access 2 molex plugs, but that's as far as I can get.
Is there anyone here who can give me some advice on removing the center console? This is driving me batty! Thanks.
#1927
#1928
Hello all. I've finally decided to go through with this, and replace the stock HU with an aftermarket unit in my '06 MT coupe.
One thing that I'm attempting is to run my usb interface cables to the cubby underneath the center console armrest, next to the auxiliary power jack. I don't want them dangling out from the side of the console, glovebox, or cupholder. I've seen this done in other places, but I'm not able to see how to remove the actual top-half of the console to get access to the cubby. I can lift it up enough to access 2 molex plugs, but that's as far as I can get.
Is there anyone here who can give me some advice on removing the center console? This is driving me batty! Thanks.
One thing that I'm attempting is to run my usb interface cables to the cubby underneath the center console armrest, next to the auxiliary power jack. I don't want them dangling out from the side of the console, glovebox, or cupholder. I've seen this done in other places, but I'm not able to see how to remove the actual top-half of the console to get access to the cubby. I can lift it up enough to access 2 molex plugs, but that's as far as I can get.
Is there anyone here who can give me some advice on removing the center console? This is driving me batty! Thanks.
#1929
Install Completed!
Thanks to Wrathernaut and all the forum contributors. My install is complete, and everything is working as advertised.
I would like to add an item to the shopping list, if there might be some interest. These items allow you to literally "tap" into existing wire harness without having to cut/splice. Not only a reliable connection, but super fast to install. A little expensive for what you get, but they're worth the price in my opinion.
Posi-Tap Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1FRSYX6K938O2
I would like to add an item to the shopping list, if there might be some interest. These items allow you to literally "tap" into existing wire harness without having to cut/splice. Not only a reliable connection, but super fast to install. A little expensive for what you get, but they're worth the price in my opinion.
Posi-Tap Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1FRSYX6K938O2
#1930
Thanks to Wrathernaut and all the forum contributors. My install is complete, and everything is working as advertised.
I would like to add an item to the shopping list, if there might be some interest. These items allow you to literally "tap" into existing wire harness without having to cut/splice. Not only a reliable connection, but super fast to install. A little expensive for what you get, but they're worth the price in my opinion.
Posi-Tap Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1FRSYX6K938O2
I would like to add an item to the shopping list, if there might be some interest. These items allow you to literally "tap" into existing wire harness without having to cut/splice. Not only a reliable connection, but super fast to install. A little expensive for what you get, but they're worth the price in my opinion.
Posi-Tap Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1FRSYX6K938O2
The only wires they'd even be close to useful on is the steering wheel wires, since everything else is matching bare wires on the harnesses with zero reason for taps. The steering wheel wires are the ones that you want the most reliable connection on. Even a "solid" crimp connection is liable to give varying resistance, and the entire steering wheel remote works through varying the resistance along those circuits. Having an unstable connection will make your steering wheel controls unresponsive or fail completely. They're good enough most of the time, but I definitely won't endorse them.
#1931
I hate those things, since they're used wrong 99% of the time. Their only legitimate use is when you need to TAP a signal that is going to be "listened" to while keeping the original circuit intact - or if the space you're trying to access is unfeasible for getting a soldering pen into. They often damage the wire they're tapping into, breaking a strand or two of the wiring inside the jacket, and they damage the jacket 100% of the time. You can spend $10 for 5 of them, or you can get a soldering pen and enough solder to do a dozen installs for $15. Wrap the soldered joint in electrical tape (or be a hero and use heatshrink) and you know you've got a real solid connection.
The only wires they'd even be close to useful on is the steering wheel wires, since everything else is matching bare wires on the harnesses with zero reason for taps. The steering wheel wires are the ones that you want the most reliable connection on. Even a "solid" crimp connection is liable to give varying resistance, and the entire steering wheel remote works through varying the resistance along those circuits. Having an unstable connection will make your steering wheel controls unresponsive or fail completely. They're good enough most of the time, but I definitely won't endorse them.
The only wires they'd even be close to useful on is the steering wheel wires, since everything else is matching bare wires on the harnesses with zero reason for taps. The steering wheel wires are the ones that you want the most reliable connection on. Even a "solid" crimp connection is liable to give varying resistance, and the entire steering wheel remote works through varying the resistance along those circuits. Having an unstable connection will make your steering wheel controls unresponsive or fail completely. They're good enough most of the time, but I definitely won't endorse them.
#1935