CD function went out 3 years ago on Bose system on my '06 Coupe, booo!

I've got the JDM trim and A/C controller! Yay!

I'm picking up a Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS, steering control adapter, PAC-ROEM-NIS1 harness, 40-NI10 antenna adapter, and a Pyle PLCM18BC rear camera to utilize the backup camera function of the Pioneer. I have installed different HUs into an '89 Maxima and '03 Sentra by myself in the past, and I tapped the signal wires for a passable 10" Sub install in my G when I bought it.

Now the question-

I'm planning to keep the stock speakers (for now, at least..). I know the wiring harness I have will let me do it pretty simply. Would there be any advantage (or any way?) to bypass the Bose Amp in the trunk entirely, and just allow the new HU to power the front and side speakers directly, and leave the rear deck speakers disconnected? It seems the Pioneer probably has the same if not better RMS ratings than the Bose amp.

Since I will be running a proper RCA (finally) for the Sub, and the wiring for the camera, I'm planning to run 2 pairs of RCA in case I eventually rip out the Bose amp. I'll connect them to the back of the HU, nad just leave them not connected in the trunk. I have a Pioneer amp from an older setup that's around 50W RMS x 4 that I might eventually wire in, but I don't want to do that unless I replace the speakers, and all that makes this project much larger than I have time for now. And most of the labor for that is completely separate from what I have to do for the new HU, and I have no idea where I'd mount the Amp, as the Sub amp is already hogging the space on the back of the rear seats..

 

The ROEM-NIS1 doesn't have the right connectors to match up with the stock harnesses. The "ROEM" adapter is the same, but the harnesses are different.

NIS1:


NIS2:


There's very likely space for the new 4-channel amp where the old bose amp was. When I did a coupe install before, the amplified signal wires from the bose amp were able to be cut from their harness and plugged right into the new amp. Just run your RCAs to give a nice clean input.


So, since you have the wrong harness already, and are planning to replace the amp anyway, I'd just pick up the 70-7550 wiring harness and run all your RCAs and replace the amp mounted at that location. Provided you have a large enough power cable running to your existing sub amp, you only need a distribution box and small extension to the second amp.

 

Man you're good! I just panicked and went to cancel that part of my order, but I noticed I actually did get the NIS2, I just typoed when I was writing that up.

I pulled up my trunk a couple days ago to look at the Bose amp, and I thought that there might be room there for my 4-ch amp, but didn't test fit it. If I don't get pressed for time (newborn plus 3 other kids..), I'll try test fitting it and replacing the Bose amp. Then, if I blow speakers, I'll get replacements. Would it really make a noticeable difference running new speaker wires to all speakers from the replacement amp, vs just using the existing wiring in place from the rear Bose amp to those speaker locations..?

The amp I would be using is a Pioneer Premier GM-6150F, 60W x 4/4ohm, 150W x 2/4ohm.

I have a Pioneer GM-5000T rated for 380W RMS in the bridged 4ohm mode as it stands now. I've got it driving a 10" Shallow-mount Pioneer Sub, rated at 1000W max, 250W nominal, in a simple .35 cubic ft sealed box I built.

 

The existing wiring is just fine. I've got 150w RMS from a JL 300/4 (bridged to 2-channel mode) per channel going through the factory wiring to the front doors. I ran new wiring through my wife's car because the IDQ CTX65-cs crossovers aren't sealed well enough that I'd be comfortable with them in the doors, it never had bose (so no wiring from the trunk in the first place) and since the molex part is by far the most time consuming, I figured I might as well run it the rest of the way.

That's a tiny box! I guess that's one reason to use a shallow-mount.

 

Yeah, it is tiny! I initially was trying to figure out a way to fit it under the front passenger seat in my '03 Sentra.

When I moved to my G, I was glad to not have a 12" sub, or to have gone through the hassle of constructing a band-pass box, as the space in the trunk is so limited.

All I really wanted was enough quality, tight bass that I could feel it in the car, not looking to rattle anything or announce my entrance to parking lots..

 

I'm really happy with the G - the same stuff that keeps noise out keep bass in. I can have my 10" in the 4080 box up loud enough to enjoy inside with it well-contained inside the car... or on the freeway, crank it up and feel it.