Can I get a 2nd amp without headlight dimming or other issues?
#1
Can I get a 2nd amp without headlight dimming or other issues?
Hey guys I would be VERY grateful for some help here because I know this isn't really easy.
I have a 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan (previously had the Bose factory system but I have replaced it).
I have put a 5 channel Alpine VDX-V9 in it (I can give any specs you need as I have the box and manual).
It has 4 channels at 100 RMS and 1 500 RMS channel (for sub).
However, I want to upgrade the sub to something a bit more powerful but don't want to blow the amp.
SO, if I were to disconnect the 500RMS channel and get an entirely new amp just for the sub (but keep the Alpine VDX-V9 hooked up for the speakers), what do you think I could do?
I have a remote start system if that matters, a double din (Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX), and I still have the pop-up factory navigation in the system.
I have the stock alternator in my G35 but an Interstate battery (aftermarket).
Any idea guys? I would be VERY GRATEFUL as I am at a loss. I went to a local shop and they said they couldn't say for sure.
I have a 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan (previously had the Bose factory system but I have replaced it).
I have put a 5 channel Alpine VDX-V9 in it (I can give any specs you need as I have the box and manual).
It has 4 channels at 100 RMS and 1 500 RMS channel (for sub).
However, I want to upgrade the sub to something a bit more powerful but don't want to blow the amp.
SO, if I were to disconnect the 500RMS channel and get an entirely new amp just for the sub (but keep the Alpine VDX-V9 hooked up for the speakers), what do you think I could do?
I have a remote start system if that matters, a double din (Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX), and I still have the pop-up factory navigation in the system.
I have the stock alternator in my G35 but an Interstate battery (aftermarket).
Any idea guys? I would be VERY GRATEFUL as I am at a loss. I went to a local shop and they said they couldn't say for sure.
#2
I've got two amps in both my G35s, JL 300/4 and JL 500/1 in one, and a Rockford Fosgate P300.2 and a 500w single channel amp in the other.
Both were installed with 0/1 gauge primary and ground wire and there's no headlight dimming issues in either. The car with JL amps is using a Optima Yellow Top, the RF one had a Optima Red Top, previously, but recently went to a auto-zone brand one.
Both were installed with 0/1 gauge primary and ground wire and there's no headlight dimming issues in either. The car with JL amps is using a Optima Yellow Top, the RF one had a Optima Red Top, previously, but recently went to a auto-zone brand one.
#3
I've got two amps in both my G35s, JL 300/4 and JL 500/1 in one, and a Rockford Fosgate P300.2 and a 500w single channel amp in the other.
Both were installed with 0/1 gauge primary and ground wire and there's no headlight dimming issues in either. The car with JL amps is using a Optima Yellow Top, the RF one had a Optima Red Top, previously, but recently went to a auto-zone brand one.
Both were installed with 0/1 gauge primary and ground wire and there's no headlight dimming issues in either. The car with JL amps is using a Optima Yellow Top, the RF one had a Optima Red Top, previously, but recently went to a auto-zone brand one.
I see thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately I don't have an Optima battery, just an Interstate Megatron battery.
The amp I already have in the car is using 4 gauge (Kicker PK4 amp kit).
I'm just not sure what to do.
How does your 500RMS sub sound? I know it is personal preference but I never really heard it. I have a 400 RMS sub in my rear deck but the guy said since it isn't free air and not in a box, it isn't so great.
#4
I see thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately I don't have an Optima battery, just an Interstate Megatron battery.
The amp I already have in the car is using 4 gauge (Kicker PK4 amp kit).
I'm just not sure what to do.
How does your 500RMS sub sound? I know it is personal preference but I never really heard it. I have a 400 RMS sub in my rear deck but the guy said since it isn't free air and not in a box, it isn't so great.
The amp I already have in the car is using 4 gauge (Kicker PK4 amp kit).
I'm just not sure what to do.
How does your 500RMS sub sound? I know it is personal preference but I never really heard it. I have a 400 RMS sub in my rear deck but the guy said since it isn't free air and not in a box, it isn't so great.
Free air can sound great, but the rear deck would need to be reinforced heavily to actually withstand a 400w sub.
#5
The 500 in a 4080 box sounds awesome for rapid hits as heard in rock and such, but I'd definitely recommend a ported box if you're after rap or more boomy bass.
Free air can sound great, but the rear deck would need to be reinforced heavily to actually withstand a 400w sub.
Free air can sound great, but the rear deck would need to be reinforced heavily to actually withstand a 400w sub.
I think I may just stick with my current amp and get a sub to put in a ported box. With that, I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind answering them. I appreciate all your help
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1) The amp can do upto a 500 RMS sub at either 2 or 4 OHMs. The guy at the shop recommended I get a 400 RMS sub. He said that at loud volumes it may push the amp and heat up a lot. I do go to very high volumes when I'm on the freeway (which is basically everyday).
Would you agree with his assessment or do you think that getting a 500 RMS sub at 2 OHMs to use with the 5th channel of my Alpine PDX-V9 would be perfectly fine? Like I said, I do go to loud volumes quite often and for a long time since my highway commutes are fairly long.
2) Does the company that makes the ported box matter?
3) Is there a significant difference between these two boxes?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12...&skuId=6504011
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cadence-...&skuId=8848168
4) Is it worth getting a grille or anything for my sub?
I'm thinking of getting the Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 (http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...e-P2D2-12.html). It is actually $97 on Amazon so that's pretty solid.
Thanks!
#6
I all depends on how you wire the sub and what the amp can handle I have a kicker 12 l7 dual 2 running at 4 ohms to a kenwood 1800 and does not dim the lights with the volume up enough to distort the sound and well past that point but wired at 1 ohm it dims well before that and my l7 12 dual 4 @ 2 ohms dims in the middle of the two. At 4 ohms you should have no problem but the sub won't reach it's full potential but overall it's safer and doesn't put too much strain on the system.
With a crappy napa battery at the time
With a crappy napa battery at the time
#7
1) The amp can do upto a 500 RMS sub at either 2 or 4 OHMs. The guy at the shop recommended I get a 400 RMS sub. He said that at loud volumes it may push the amp and heat up a lot. I do go to very high volumes when I'm on the freeway (which is basically everyday).
Would you agree with his assessment or do you think that getting a 500 RMS sub at 2 OHMs to use with the 5th channel of my Alpine PDX-V9 would be perfectly fine? Like I said, I do go to loud volumes quite often and for a long time since my highway commutes are fairly long.
2) Does the company that makes the ported box matter?
3) Is there a significant difference between these two boxes?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12...&skuId=6504011
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cadence-...&skuId=8848168
4) Is it worth getting a grille or anything for my sub?
I'm thinking of getting the Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 (http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...e-P2D2-12.html). It is actually $97 on Amazon so that's pretty solid.
Thanks!
Would you agree with his assessment or do you think that getting a 500 RMS sub at 2 OHMs to use with the 5th channel of my Alpine PDX-V9 would be perfectly fine? Like I said, I do go to loud volumes quite often and for a long time since my highway commutes are fairly long.
2) Does the company that makes the ported box matter?
3) Is there a significant difference between these two boxes?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12...&skuId=6504011
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cadence-...&skuId=8848168
4) Is it worth getting a grille or anything for my sub?
I'm thinking of getting the Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 (http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...e-P2D2-12.html). It is actually $97 on Amazon so that's pretty solid.
Thanks!
Ported boxes have to be done to the specs of the sub, there's too many variables to produce a generic ported box. You can get subs in ported boxes, since they're a matched set, but if you have a specific sub you want, you need to get a custom ported box. Sealed boxes are much more forgiving, that's why you can do ones like the 4080 box that are suitable for many subs and sound good.
There's a huge difference, too much to write here. Look up passive subwoofer enclosures. A ported box isn't just a box with a hole in it. Um, pretty much just go to subwoofer-builder.com and spend a couple hours reading.
Definitely get a grille if it's going in the trunk. Mine fell off a couple months ago and my JL 10w6v2 got damaged. I was able to repair it, but plenty of other people would be out over $300 in that situation.
In that low of a price range, I'd go with the Sundown E-10.
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#8
Ported boxes have to be done to the specs of the sub, there's too many variables to produce a generic ported box. You can get subs in ported boxes, since they're a matched set, but if you have a specific sub you want, you need to get a custom ported box. Sealed boxes are much more forgiving, that's why you can do ones like the 4080 box that are suitable for many subs and sound good.
The reason I bring these two boxes up in particular are because I can get the Cadence (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cadence-...&skuId=8848168) for about $100 and the Metra above for about $30. I'm just not sure if it is worth the extra cost, assuming that they both work with a sub like the Rockford.
In that low of a price range, I'd go with the Sundown E-10.
Well I wouldn't be opposed to paying some more money at all for a better sub. The Rockford is $160 on Crutchfield and just happens to be $97 on Amazon.
I actually went to a local shop this morning that is a Rockford dealer and they hooked that one up to my car. It sounded pretty damn good once he tuned it. I haven't bought it or anything.
Considering that it is 400 RMS, you don't think that is an advantage over the Sundown since it has some of that "headspace" since I do play at very, very loud volumes for long periods of time in my freeway commute? Or do you think that the Sundown is simply a better sub overall and worth it?
If you have any other recommendations, that would be awesome too. I did like what I heard from the Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 so if I can get something even better, that would be great.
Here is the Rockford again just for reference if you need it: http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...e-P2D2-12.html
Thanks again man!! Seriously your help/advice is invaluable!
#9
I see. The thing is that the Best Buy site says that the Metra box (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-12...&skuId=6504011) is compatible with most 12" subs? So is that wrong? Assuming it has the necessary cubic volume (Rockford needs 1.79)?
Okay so I've been reading it a bit but I don't know a lot of the terminology. Apparently though there are some pros of the passive enclosures over the ported.
The reason I bring these two boxes up in particular are because I can get the Cadence (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cadence-...&skuId=8848168) for about $100 and the Metra above for about $30. I'm just not sure if it is worth the extra cost, assuming that they both work with a sub like the Rockford.
The reason I bring these two boxes up in particular are because I can get the Cadence (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cadence-...&skuId=8848168) for about $100 and the Metra above for about $30. I'm just not sure if it is worth the extra cost, assuming that they both work with a sub like the Rockford.
Well I wouldn't be opposed to paying some more money at all for a better sub. The Rockford is $160 on Crutchfield and just happens to be $97 on Amazon.
I actually went to a local shop this morning that is a Rockford dealer and they hooked that one up to my car. It sounded pretty damn good once he tuned it. I haven't bought it or anything.
Considering that it is 400 RMS, you don't think that is an advantage over the Sundown since it has some of that "headspace" since I do play at very, very loud volumes for long periods of time in my freeway commute? Or do you think that the Sundown is simply a better sub overall and worth it?
If you have any other recommendations, that would be awesome too. I did like what I heard from the Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12 so if I can get something even better, that would be great.
Here is the Rockford again just for reference if you need it: http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...e-P2D2-12.html
Thanks again man!! Seriously your help/advice is invaluable!
Here is the Rockford again just for reference if you need it: http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D...e-P2D2-12.html
Thanks again man!! Seriously your help/advice is invaluable!
#10
#11
It'll be fine. Just don't run a 0db sine wave on it for 10 minutes straight.
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Urbanengineer (02-28-2015)
#12
Anyways, have you any experience with that particular Sundown. by any chance? Or are you able to just tell from specs that it is better than that Rockford in both performance and quality?
I was looking at their site, and they have both 10 and 12" for the E series. Two questions here if you wouldn't mind.
1) Why not go with 2 OHMs since my amp supports both 2 OHM and 4 OHM?
2) Any advantage of the 12" over the 10"? The 12" is apparently 400 RMS but it has to have some advantages, right (
Amazon.com : E-12D2 - Sundown Audio 12" Dual 2-Ohm E Series Subwoofer : Vehicle Subwoofer Systems : Car Electronics
) ?Edit: The 12" 4 OHM is 500 RMS apparently. I've heard that 2 OHM is "louder" from an installer. Is that incorrect? Would it be better to simply go with 4 OHM in this case? 10 or 12? Thanks again dude
Last edited by Rehman2009; 02-28-2015 at 11:14 PM.
#13
Not really sure what that means lol I googled but I couldn't really find an answer. Probably a really deep sounding sound?
Anyways, have you any experience with that particular Sundown. by any chance? Or are you able to just tell from specs that it is better than that Rockford in both performance and quality?
I was looking at their site, and they have both 10 and 12" for the E series. Two questions here if you wouldn't mind.
1) Why not go with 2 OHMs since my amp supports both 2 OHM and 4 OHM?
2) Any advantage of the 12" over the 10"? The 12" is apparently 400 RMS but it has to have some advantages, right (Amazon.com : E-12D2 - Sundown Audio 12" Dual 2-Ohm E Series Subwoofer : Vehicle Subwoofer Systems : Car Electronics) ?
Edit: The 12" 4 OHM is 500 RMS apparently. I've heard that 2 OHM is "louder" from an installer. Is that incorrect? Would it be better to simply go with 4 OHM in this case? 10 or 12? Thanks again dude
Anyways, have you any experience with that particular Sundown. by any chance? Or are you able to just tell from specs that it is better than that Rockford in both performance and quality?
I was looking at their site, and they have both 10 and 12" for the E series. Two questions here if you wouldn't mind.
1) Why not go with 2 OHMs since my amp supports both 2 OHM and 4 OHM?
2) Any advantage of the 12" over the 10"? The 12" is apparently 400 RMS but it has to have some advantages, right (Amazon.com : E-12D2 - Sundown Audio 12" Dual 2-Ohm E Series Subwoofer : Vehicle Subwoofer Systems : Car Electronics) ?
Edit: The 12" 4 OHM is 500 RMS apparently. I've heard that 2 OHM is "louder" from an installer. Is that incorrect? Would it be better to simply go with 4 OHM in this case? 10 or 12? Thanks again dude
The amp will probably put out more watts at 2 ohms, and less at 4 ohms. It's more work on the amp for the lower ohms, but a good amp will handle it.
12" subs generally can hit lower lows while sacrificing a bit of the mid-bass, but need larger enclosures. 10's aren't going to hit as low on the lows, but will be better for mid-bass.
#14
No hands-on, just reviews comparing it to ones I have. I'd go with the Sundown SA-10 if I were in the market for another sub right now.
The amp will probably put out more watts at 2 ohms, and less at 4 ohms. It's more work on the amp for the lower ohms, but a good amp will handle it.
12" subs generally can hit lower lows while sacrificing a bit of the mid-bass, but need larger enclosures. 10's aren't going to hit as low on the lows, but will be better for mid-bass.
The amp will probably put out more watts at 2 ohms, and less at 4 ohms. It's more work on the amp for the lower ohms, but a good amp will handle it.
12" subs generally can hit lower lows while sacrificing a bit of the mid-bass, but need larger enclosures. 10's aren't going to hit as low on the lows, but will be better for mid-bass.
Would you consider the Alpine PDX-V9 a "good sub" that can handle the 2 ohms at loud volumes for an extended period of time?
The thing is the 2 ohms are actually 400 RMS while the 4 ohms are 500 RMS. Which would you go with? Is there a certain reason of going with one over the other?
#15
Would you consider the Alpine PDX-V9 a "good sub" that can handle the 2 ohms at loud volumes for an extended period of time?
The thing is the 2 ohms are actually 400 RMS while the 4 ohms are 500 RMS. Which would you go with? Is there a certain reason of going with one over the other?
The thing is the 2 ohms are actually 400 RMS while the 4 ohms are 500 RMS. Which would you go with? Is there a certain reason of going with one over the other?
Go with the 4 ohm configuration if that's the case.