It is indeed a colossal pain in the butt to get the one in and out on the exhaust side, but I've only ever taken the bucket down once because I'm just lazy. I've snaked the axle through all two or three times that I have taken it off since. Hopefully I never have to do that ish again.

 

Honestly, IMO, it's less work to drop the bucket out of the way then it is to fight with everything in the way, especially on the Driver side. Even after you remove the Axel it's still tough to get the wheel bearing bolts cracked free and removed.
I'd much rather take the 10 minutes and drop them, which saves probably 10 minutes or more in the overall procedure, saves your knuckles/hands, and also saves the CV boots, which are easy to tear, and costly to replace.

Also, my bearings were firmly seized in the spindle. The way I got them out was to leave the bolts in just a few threads and tap the end of the bolt heads from the inside to get it out, worked like a charm.

 

Hey guys, here is are some nice detailed videos on how to remove the bearing from the hub assembly and install a new one back on.

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p..._procedure.php

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p..._procedure.php

 

hi guys

i need to replace my rear wheel bearing. Just wondering if the part is exactly the same as the front, or should i be finding a part specific for the rear?

I can only find the wheel bearing online, but can not find a hub/wheel bearing assembly together

Thanks!

 

Yes, it's different from front to back. There is a nice guide on here or a similar site on how to do it.

 

Where are you located? If you bring me the old hub / bearing, I can separate the two for you and press in the new bearing.

 

is it possible for someone to share where i can buy the rear wheel bearing and hub assembly from?

 

You cannot buy it anywhere, they are not sold together. If you like, I can ship you a brand new hub with bearing installed. You will have to paypal me the amount.

 

I bought both from OC Infiniti, they were helpful and gave me discount price for memebers here. You will not find them sold together. Just find a friend with a press that's all. I bought everything from OC hubs, bearings , axle nuts, seal and cotter pins.

 

Maybe I missed it but I didn't see torque specs for the lock nut.

I found specs below and although its for a 350Z I can't imagine it being different for the G35 coupe.

Also, does anybody have an explanation why the driveshaft needs to be installed 180 degrees from which it was removed...Is this to balance wear or something?

http://www.notre350z.com/forum/files...ClickClack.pdf

b. Tighten the center locknut to 240 N-m (24.5 kg-m, 177 ft-lb).

• If the center locknut is over tightened, the incident may re-occur.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT use a power tool (impact wrench) to tighten the center
locknut.

c. Install new side flange bolts, nuts, and washers.

• Tighten them to 63 – 79 Nm (6.5 – 8.0 kg-m, 47 – 58 ft-lb).

• Side flange bolts, nuts and washers are listed in the Parts Information. [/I]
[/I]

 

OP, thanks for this DIY but the instructions in this post did not work for me! I know this post is several years old but I am providing additional instructions to hopefully help those that are still tackling this job.

I tackled this project this past weekend and it was a nightmare - primarily due to stuck rotors and incomplete instructions.

I have no idea how you guys were able to snake the driver side shaft out of the axle without severely bending the cv joints. Even if you don't care about the cv joints I still don't see how its possible to remove without removing the exhaust or suspension components (as instructed in the service manual).

2005 G35c 6MT
150k miles


REMOVE LOCK NUT FROM DRIVE SHAFT:
Pretty self explanatory. Mine was loose so it was easy to come off.
Make sure you have extension and good breaker solution as well as 1/2 inch drive tools - but really just get an adequate impact wrench and save yourself trouble as I feel a power tool is needed to help with subsequent steps.
Note: if car is jacked up and rotor is already off you will have to come up with a method to counter torque being applied to lock nut which will turn drive shaft - so keep rotor on and apply ebrake. Hopefully your ebrake is stronger than mine - see I told you to just get an impact wrench.


REMOVE ROTOR: (PITA if fused)
First make sure ebrake is not engaged.
Try tapping rotor with a hammer. It may be necessary to relieve the brake shoe tension by following instructions here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...6mt-sedan.html

At this point if rotor doesn't slide off with the help of a few taps from anything except Thor's hammer then please quit at this moment and by any means necessary procure 2 bolts that are small enough in diameter to fit through the caliper bracket holes (on axle) and long enough to touch rotor. You will also need 2 nuts and 4 washers. Please just do this and don't ask questions! Once you have the bolts, nuts and washers position them on each caliper bracket as follows: ( ) =====@{}{}|[]
Starting left to right - rotor, bolt shaft, nut, washer,washer, caliper bracket, bolt head. Put a ratchet on the bolt head and an open end wrench on the nut and tighten. The end of the bolt will be pushing the caliper off. Once successful you will hear a pop. You may have to repeat this on the lower caliper bracket. If you are reusing your rotors find suitable material to prevent rotor damage. Another nut made of brass on the end of the bolt "should" work fine. I replaced my rotors so I didn't care.

SERVICE MANUALS and Diagrams:
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2005/rax.pdf
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2003/rsu.pdf

SUSPENSION REMOVAL:
Study components and contemplate how you are going to reconnect them. Sorry I am trying to do this from memory and I had to improvise because I initially didn't have an impact wrench and was unable to untighten the radius rod and lower link since as I applied torque the entire suspension would move negating the torque I was trying to apply. Did I not tell you to get an adequate impact wrench!

Loosen brake cable connector bolt (axle end), no need to completely remove lever.
Remove bolt for radius rod (axle end)
Remove bolt for front lower link rod (axle end)
Place a jack under rear lower link (spring bucket) to depress spring. I did this to relieve any force on the strut and bucket in order to remove bolts in subsequent steps.
Remove bolt to strut
Remove jack from spring bucket
Remove rear lower link bolt (axle side) and spring.
Remove 4 of 6 drive shaft bolts (diff side). Untighten remaining 2 bolts but leave in so drive shaft does not dangle.
Once suspension components are removed you should be able to swing axle out enough to remove drive shaft spline from axle.

AXLE:
Remove 4 bolts that are holding wheel hub and bearing assembly.
These bolts should not be to hard to remove but I bet you wish you invested in that impact wrench. Oops I forgot to mention get a swivel adapter as well.
Once bolts are remove the assembly will easily slide out.

REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER:
Unfortunately getting the suspension components to realign is a bit tricky
Tip: When removing suspension bolts insert smaller bolt, beefy allen wrench or something to keep part from coming completely separated. Not sure if a smaller object in these holes will give you enough play to maneuver the drive axle out but its worth a shot.

Also be careful not to apply too much force by using the bolt as a lever to force them back in the hole - particularly with the rear lower suspension link. I think I stripped the receiving threads when attempting to get the bolt back in. Not a big deal in this application as this bolt is only tightened on the opposite end where the nut is applied.

FYI - Out of desperation and half way through this project I brought a craftsman C3 1/2" impact wrench. This is a decent tool but it was not strong enough to remove the bolts on the radius rod or front lower link...YMMV. I managed to use a beefy 1/2 ratchet and open end wrench to break these bolts. Hence why I say get an adequate impact wrench.

THINGS TO PAY ATTENTION TO:

Before removing hub/bearing from axle pay attention to direction of bearing which has a small flange that should be positioned at the top of the axle. I happened to put this in correctly when I reassembled and noticed after the fact that it had a flange on the bearing. Thankfully, I was able to view the OP pic where he pulled bearing while still in axle which shows the correct position of the bearing. Maybe this is not an issue and can only go in one way or it doesn't matter which direction its positioned - but I wasn't able to confirm this.

If you need to gain access to brake shoe adjustment don't forget to put rubber piece back in hole on rotor. It sucks to puts wheel an nuts on and realize this piece is starring at you on the garage floor.

Also if you have to make adjustments to the brake shoes make sure wheel spins freely before going for test drive and ensure you understand what direction to turn the adjuster to properly set the number of clicks for your ebrake. FYI. If you hear any dragging please STOP and readjust...the brake shoes or cable will not loosen or seat into place as you drive!

I purchased hub from Infiniti ($200) and bearing from Amazon (Timken BM500006 Bearing). Bearing was only $54 and as others stated it looks(is) identical to OEM. I decided not to reuse hub and purchased a new one because I didn't want to worry about going through hassle of finding someone to take out old bearing and put in new once I finally got everything disassembled. If you don't have an impact wrench and depending on when you tackle this job it may be midnight before you get everything apart so good luck finding someone to press a bearing during this time. Once my bearing arrived I purchased hub from Infiniti and found a firestone to press for only $20.

ADDITIONAL TOOLS:
Since you already purchased an impact wrench...? Invest in a 13/16 thin wall socket to help with wheel removal and installation. While you at it get a wire brush for drill - much more efficient than a manual brush especially if you are reusing hub.

Brake cleaner - I hope you didn't put those parts back on without a thorough cleaning.

Impact sockets - 1/2 drive 6-point

Sand paper (fine) - Used to remove light rust on inside of axle.

I'm not sure how much money I spent on this project and not sure I want to know, but everything I did was an investment including the frustration. Like most I initiated this project to save money which in this case I don't think occurred - but at least I was able to learn something and add some much needed tools to my toolbox.

 

For shish-and-giggles, I went to the Nissan stealership near my work over lunch. Long story short, here's what I was quoted:
Rear Hub assy: $273
Rear bearing assy: $170
Press bearing onto hub: $100
Full install on vehicle: $325 Labor + parts

Over $800 once you add tax to have them replace a single rear wheel bearing. This! This is why I like to do the work on my car myself!

I know an independent shop should be cheaper, but reasoning still stands. And yes, I know I may not need a new hub, but I have been driving with the bearing going bad for almost 2 years. Up to a month ago, the only symptom was the loud hum (no perceptible play or roughness in hand-spinning any of the wheels) , so I couldn't isolate the exact source. Now there's some metallic noises coming from drivers rear and slight vibrations at a few specific vehicle speeds, definitely indicating the bearing is deteriorating.

Just need to find a reasonable quote on pressing the bearing, then I can order the parts and get that done ahead of time and won't need to use my wife's car to drive to a shop while leaving her and the kids stranded at home with my car on stands.

 

Where can I buy the cotter pin, bolts and nuts from?

 

Ok, got the driver side rear bearing changed this week. Made a HUGE improvement.. Once it was off the car, I turned it in my hands, and I could feel and hear the metallic grinding. I couldn't feel a difference between it and the new bearing when just spinning or trying to rock the rear wheel with it off the ground. Definitely not the easiest thing to diagnose sometimes!

I still hear another bearing that's going bad, making the same type of noise, where the groan/hum changes pitch relative to the speed the car is moving at. However, it is MUCH less loud. It's almost like I'm wearing earplugs, with how much quieter the car is at 20 mph and up.

I'm guessing I'll need to do the other rear bearing sooner than later. Hopefully that'll be it, but it's such a low frequency noise that it's difficult to judge the direction, whether the sound is definitely coming from the rear.. maybe it's so hard to tell because I have another bearing (or both) worn out up front, too..

 

Referencing the issues in the original post, don't go ahead and replace your bearing/hub just because its making a rubbing noise. From my recent experience, 1) your wheel most likely is wobbly if the bearing is bad. So jack it up and wiggle it. Takes a few minutes. 2) Even if your wheel is wobbling, check and retorque your axel nut. And check for wobble again.

I brought my car in to the shop to replace the bearing and after finding out my wheel was wobbling. Upon removing stuff, we found that the axel nut had backed out. Since I already had the new bearing, we replace it anyways, and retorqued the axel nut. Every thing was find until two weeks later, i found that my wheel was wobbling again. I check it out and found that the axel nut had backed out again. So I retorqued and applied loc tite. If it backs out again, then i'll get a new nut. Long story short, the axel nut was likely the cause of the wheel wobble and not the bearing. So do your due diligence before jumping into replacing the bearing. Check for wobbling, and check the axel nut.