DIY: 03-06 G35x AWD Front wheel bearings
#33
Could this be what's wrong with my 06' G35X? I have a problem with my steering wheel shaking while driving at any speed over 50. I've had the same problem for a while now. So far, I've had the wheels balanced, tires replaced and balanced, an alignment, and new front rotors. I bought this car 10 months ago and it had about 80K miles on it. Someone else told me that the wheels could be bent but no matter how I rotate the wheels the problem is exactly the same. I'm kinda lost as to what to do next...
#34
I just finished changing out my bearing. Here in Arizona, things do not corrode quite as much...
I modified the procedure as follows:
remove brake caliper assembly, rotor, and speed sensor. i did not remove any steering components
take off upper control arm bolt to allow spindle clearance for outer axle removal.
after removing the outer axle from the hub, place the upper control arm back into the spindle and secure with bolt.
i removed the three "easy" bearing bolts. for the 4th bolt i simply removed the control arm from the spindle in order to gain access. after removing the final bolt, the bearing/hub assembly literally slid right out of the spindle.
i had a local shop do the pressing (pressing hub out of old bearing and into the new bearing).
all things said and done 115 for the bearing shipped, 30 for the shop doing the pressing and only about 1.5 hours of my time. (just about every shop quoted me for 400 parts and labor)
hope this helps someone
I modified the procedure as follows:
remove brake caliper assembly, rotor, and speed sensor. i did not remove any steering components
take off upper control arm bolt to allow spindle clearance for outer axle removal.
after removing the outer axle from the hub, place the upper control arm back into the spindle and secure with bolt.
i removed the three "easy" bearing bolts. for the 4th bolt i simply removed the control arm from the spindle in order to gain access. after removing the final bolt, the bearing/hub assembly literally slid right out of the spindle.
i had a local shop do the pressing (pressing hub out of old bearing and into the new bearing).
all things said and done 115 for the bearing shipped, 30 for the shop doing the pressing and only about 1.5 hours of my time. (just about every shop quoted me for 400 parts and labor)
hope this helps someone
Last edited by nlallen141; 10-15-2012 at 03:45 PM. Reason: clarification
#35
great writeup bro I am changing mine right now and the shop had the hardest time taking out the knuckle/spindle i will be reusing the hub as it was not in too bad condition but we will see if this comes to bite me in the bum later on. Dis you change ball joints at all since they were right in the open or were they good???
I still haven't removed the old hubs from the bearings. They've been in my trunk for 2 years. Onc eof these days i'll drive to a machine shop and see if they can press out the old hubs.
I figure if iever need to do bearings again, i'll reuse the old hubs.
#36
I just finished changing out my bearing. Here in Arizona, things do not corrode quite as much...
I modified the procedure as follows:
remove brake caliper assembly, rotor, and speed sensor. i did not remove any steering components
take off upper control arm bolt to allow spindle clearance for outer axle removal.
after removing the outer axle from the hub, place the upper control arm back into the spindle and secure with bolt.
i removed the three "easy" bearing bolts. for the 4th bolt i simply removed the control arm from the spindle in order to gain access. after removing the final bolt, the bearing/hub assembly literally slid right out of the spindle.
i had a local shop do the pressing (pressing hub out of old bearing and into the new bearing).
all things said and done 115 for the bearing shipped, 30 for the shop doing the pressing and only about 1.5 hours of my time. (just about every shop quoted me for 400 parts and labor)
hope this helps someone
I modified the procedure as follows:
remove brake caliper assembly, rotor, and speed sensor. i did not remove any steering components
take off upper control arm bolt to allow spindle clearance for outer axle removal.
after removing the outer axle from the hub, place the upper control arm back into the spindle and secure with bolt.
i removed the three "easy" bearing bolts. for the 4th bolt i simply removed the control arm from the spindle in order to gain access. after removing the final bolt, the bearing/hub assembly literally slid right out of the spindle.
i had a local shop do the pressing (pressing hub out of old bearing and into the new bearing).
all things said and done 115 for the bearing shipped, 30 for the shop doing the pressing and only about 1.5 hours of my time. (just about every shop quoted me for 400 parts and labor)
hope this helps someone
seems like a lot of work just to save $600 also if you ask me. but $400 is reasonable.
Last edited by yassy; 02-18-2013 at 03:33 PM.
#37
Is removing the entire spindle really necessary on a X? Couldn't it be done in a similar order that dothemath does it on his coupe in this thread https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...diy-video.html? If not, Im guessing its due to the axle being in the way of removing those 4 bolts?
Last edited by BuzzLightYear; 03-26-2013 at 11:07 PM.
#38
Since i'm very mechanically inclined and have all the tools/presses/ etc, i did the job myself. Parts ran about $250 each side, and i see vendors these days selling them for $200 a side already pressed. There's 1 on ebay as we speak.
I prefer to do my own work on my cars, so that was my main driving force in doing this myself.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 05-24-2013 at 12:47 PM.
#39
Is removing the entire spindle really necessary on a X? Couldn't it be done in a similar order that dothemath does it on his coupe in this thread https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...diy-video.html? If not, Im guessing its due to the axle being in the way of removing those 4 bolts?
It's corrosion mainly. Removing the axle on the AWD sedan was VERY easy. Once i got it out, I bolted the entire front suspension back together and used a slide hammer and bearing pullers to try to remove the bearing from the spindle. It didn't work. I didn't show this method in my write-up at all because...well it didn't work. If someone wants to try to modify the procedure to use a slide hammer to remove the bearing, feel free. But i didn't want someone to spend 2-3 hours tearing their car apart to find the method didn't work for them. Taking the front suspension of the G35 apart was pretty easy. And if someone is to at least be able to get the spindle off the car, that at least gives them the option of taking it to a shop and having them press out the bearing, or finish the job completely for them.
I needed to press the bearing out of the spindle. And if i remember, it took quite a bit of force that when it popped loose, the bearing, spindle and all my fixtures fell to the floor because of the suddenness. The new bearing slid in by hand.
Most AWD G35's are snow driven, and given 100K miles of driving in the rust-belt, it's hard to say if these bearings will fall out on their own, or need minor persuasion with a slide-hammer...or a press.
Most coupes tend to be fair-weather cars...so i can reasonable expect a lot of bearings to simply fall out on those cars once unbolted.
I remember when i wrote this DIY there was not a whole lot of info on the job. So i pretty much winged it and snapped photos. Hopefully this has helped a lot of people. I know there are several thousand views of this thread by now, but who know how many were working on their car with this thread opened up right next to them. Hopefully it helped them out. I had no such info to go by and pretty much jumped into this blind after a few weekend of pulling a wheel off just to make sure i had all the socket sizes i needed and think of other tools and methods to use before even starting the job. So if this helps even 1 person gain the confidence to do it and save themselves a few hundred bucks...then it was worth it. Still...with that said, the fact that those who took the time to rate the thread only gave it 3 stars is a bit....odd?
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 05-24-2013 at 12:45 PM.
#41
Are the wheel hubs and bearings the same for AWD and RWD sedans? I did some searching on this site http://www.canadapartsonline.com/sea...Nr=universal:0 and it gave me the same hubs, price and parts # regardless if I select the base model or the AWD model. Also, is the "Replacement" brand any good? Kinda skeptacle since its less than half the price of the Timken.
#42
Great write up! I'll be doing this very soon. I opted for OEM Nissan parts for a half decent price. Had a difficult time locating right parts for my X. Rockauto didn't have them and other than oem, there was only one listing on ebay for both that was $100 cheaper. No confirmation on brand of parts though. OEM = safe. I do have to press them, but have access to one. Going to see if I can get it without removing steering knuckle. I'll post back on results. Hopefully this weekend.
^^^^ No different parts for AWD and RWD. Also be careful on descriptions. Ordered Moog Hub Assembly and received only the bearing, for a salty price I might add.
^^^^ No different parts for AWD and RWD. Also be careful on descriptions. Ordered Moog Hub Assembly and received only the bearing, for a salty price I might add.
#43
The timkin bearing i ordered was a repackaged NTN bearing. The OEM bearing i ordered was also an NTN bearing. The originals removed were NTN.
So so far the only evidence i've seen suggests one maker for the bearing, and two distributors so far (nissan and timken)
With these cars getting older, we might see more manufacturers pop up, but so far the only bearings i've seen are the NTN brand.
If someone does see another bearing manufacturer (brand stamped on the bearing...disregard the box it came in) please chime in.
#44
Excellent writeup, thanks! I really want to do this job myself but don't have a press. Would dumping a bunch of penetrating fluid where the hub sits in the spindle not help with removal? I was thinking of going with the block of wood and hammer approach to try and budge the hub from the spindle.