Wow this thread was really helpful.

I just want to clarify with all of this as I just did the entire change with rotors.

The front torque members are 22mm, not 23mm as inmclumzy said.
The rear torque members are 19mm.
The sliding bolts on the front and rear are both 14mm.

Good luck!

 

Subscribed!

 

great write-up

 

nice post, yo.

 

exactly what i was looking for!

 

going do mine real soon

 

Thanks for the excellent write up, just finished the rear pads using this guide.

 

Great write up. Have a few questions though. I have 03 coupe with Brembo and was told that the Brembo brake system has some kind of sensitive sensor and doing brake at home will mess it up. Is this true? Don't want to have to pay money to get it done If I can simply do it at home. Thx

 

Excellent thread! I did my brakes twice on my Sentra and both times I removed the entire caliper.. wasn't clued in on how simple and friendly it is to remove a slide bolt. Much simpler!


I know this is a little late.. But I had the exact same problem last night. Couldn't fit my breaker bar in there, so went with the mallet. It started to round off the bolt, so I got desperate. I broke out a simple propane blow torch, set a short flame and hit that bolt from all sides for about 2 minutes. (1 minute wasn't enough.) I still had to use the mallet, because the wrench I had was short (and the sockets were not fully seating because a couple corners were rounded). Short, mild blows with it eventually broke it free. I had to do the same with the other side, but since I hadn't rounded off the bolt, it was much easier to break it free without worry of completely rounding off the bolt. I put some anti-seize on the threads of those bolts before reinstalling them. My first thought was that the last service (before I purchased used), some monkey probably torqued the slide bolts to the specs of the torque member bolts.. But there were so many rust flakes inside the piston that it may simply have been rust on those slide bolts, too.

Feels great having all new pads on, not having to worry about overheating thin pads or running through them and scouring the discs. Getting away with only $70 for a new set of quality (though not high performance) pads is a great thing after the financial disaster of a last two months I've had.

 

Another tip is always to use a good-quality six-point socket to prevent rounding-over. I wish I knew the trick to getting rotors off when they are stuck tight! No amount of beating would get my rear pass rotor to budge. I know you should back off the e-brake, too, but I'm sure that wasn't engaged. Maybe some penetrant around the studs (being careful not to get it on the e-brake shoes!) or some heat on the rotor hat? Just don't do both at the same time -- many penetrants are flammable!

 

I was having problems taking off the front caliper bracket bolts. Not enough room with all the suspension and stuff. Someone suggested I turn the steering wheel so that the end of the breaker bar is outside the wheel well. Then I could get real leverage on the bar. It helped a ton. I know it sounds obvious after the fact, but in the heat of battle it didn't seem that obvious. Just thought I'd pass along the tip.

 

subscribing.

very tempting to do....

 

subd...thanks

 

Replaced my front pads yesterday using this guide. You don't have to remove both sliding bolts on the front calipers. I removed the bottom bolt, pivoted up the caliper, secured it and went about changing out the pads.

 

I did the rear pads on my 05 coupe took me an hour to do just pads replacement.


I used the steering wheel lock called the club as my breaker bar. Fits perfect and has nice grips to it