SPC Camber Kit Help Center | THMotorsports

[THMotorsports]

Originally Posted by Sen

After doing a little more research, I decided to just call SPC to see if they have the updated ABS sensor brackets, and they have a repair kit available. I gave them my address, and they're gonna ship it to me.

Not bad, imo! Good customer service!

Can you PM me with that part number that they gave you. I think I want to have them send this with every kit.

Eddie

[Sen]

Originally Posted by THMotorsports

Can you PM me with that part number that they gave you. I think I want to have them send this with every kit.

Eddie

When I recieve it, I'll PM you.

I assumed the new camber kits come with the revised brackets. The new bracket is actually bolted into the head of another bolt. But for those kits with the L Brackets, I'm sure that would be helpful.

[Sen]

721261

That's the repair kit that SPC sent me. This fixed the ABS sensor gap problem that I had which screwed up my VDC and ABS.

From what I understand, though, the new SPC camber kits have the new brackets already.

[mammeor]

Originally Posted by THMotorsports

Can you remove the bolt and compare it to the factory bolt in on a NON RAS system. I see your concern and why you did not do it. This may be better handled by Doug@SPC. Please call there at 1-800-525-6505.

I will email him and give him a heads up of this so he can do some research ahead of time.

Hi Eddie,

so I talked to Doug @ spc and he told me that since the spring bucket on a RAS car directly attaches to a steering component, you cannot drill to it because:

1 - it's not aluminum
2- the steering adjusts the toe while driving so you have to keep the stock bolts and max them out to a setting that allows for the most positive camber.

Now, I'm kind of stuck with having only some positive camber and I will have to continue to run more negative than specs because of this issue.

Alex

[V35 Skyline GT]

Originally Posted by mammeor

Hi Eddie,

so I managed to install the rear arms, however I did not install the rear toe bolts because the toe bolts hold the spring bucket, but it's not aluminum, it looks like its something else, because I think I have Rear Active Steering (RAS). Here's a picture of what I mean. I don't want to Dremel through a steering component. what should I do, I dunno if I'll be in specs without the toe bolts because I'm lowered 2 inches? pics below

Here's my car's spring bucket and rear toe bolt


And here what a non RAS car looks like...

It's the same factory designed concept and function adjusting toe there with RAS as on non-RAS. You can elongate those RAS end bracket slots with no worries with supplied template. I did on mine.

Originally Posted by THMotorsports

Can you remove the bolt and compare it to the factory bolt in on a NON RAS system. I see your concern and why you did not do it. This may be better handled by Doug@SPC. Please call there at 1-800-525-6505.

I will email him and give him a heads up of this so he can do some research ahead of time.

Only difference is the length as I told you months ago on the phone with mine. Agree SPC is the ppl to contact. They know which correct toe bolt kit ppl need with RAS units. And SPC will exchange free with the correct ones if you happen to get the non-RAS shorter toe bolts in kit

Originally Posted by mammeor

Hi Eddie,

so I talked to Doug @ spc and he told me that since the spring bucket on a RAS car directly attaches to a steering component, you cannot drill to it because:

1 - it's not aluminum
2- the steering adjusts the toe while driving so you have to keep the stock bolts and max them out to a setting that allows for the most positive camber.

Now, I'm kind of stuck with having only some positive camber and I will have to continue to run more negative than specs because of this issue.

Alex

1 - Aluminum or steel doesn't matter. It can still be grinded and elongate those slots with template supplied. Template fits on both types the same way and gives same enhanced travel over oem eccentrics for toe.

2 - Think you got it a little twisted around there. Max the 'camber' eccentrics to positive, then adjust 'camber' with the SPC 'camber' arms. Toe is only adjustable with the 'toe' eccentric plate bolts in original factory location (the mid-link), whether still with oem or more aggressive SPC ones.

RAS only activates in hard turns, otherwise it stays neutral and holds your toe spec settings as if not even there like non-RAS G's.

G/L