Rear brakes recently done, left rear now gets HOT quickly. Bad Caliper?
#1
Rear brakes recently done, left rear now gets HOT quickly. Bad Caliper?
Hey everyone,
I've been lurking on the site for awhile and decided to post because I have an issue I'm concerned about. I recently replaced the rear brake rotors on pads on my 2005 G35x. I've done this before on other vehicles without any issues but I'm having a problem on the drivers side rear brakes, they don't take long to get very hot.
I noticed it a week after the brake job so I figured maybe some debris was in there somewhere so I took the pads and rotor out, cleaned everything generously with brake cleaner, and installed everything again. Right before this, that side would only squeak when staying steady around 25mph, tapping of the brakes would usually make it go away for a moment. I thought I was in the clear because I drove home from the base hobby shop (not far though) and had no heat issues, however, the issue returned the next day.
I can drive a few blocks and brake at stop signs with no noticeable heat issues, but anything more then 3 or 4 miles of driving and braking at intersections will start to make things hot. I've done some research and I'm reading that the brake caliper piston may be bad? The car brakes just fine though, no odd feeling or noises, the car staying straight. I also don't think there is anything wrong with the brake hose, it looks good and when I re-installed everything I checked the hose to see if it was hot but only the caliper, rotors, and pads were. I had to wait awhile for them to cool, too hot to the touch to work on.
I will admit that although I'm normally ahead of the game, the back brakes were in desperate need of replacement, that side being in worse shape then the other. I'm wondering the caliper got damaged somehow? I don't know if it's normal for a piston to be able to close just fine but not retract.
I've been lurking on the site for awhile and decided to post because I have an issue I'm concerned about. I recently replaced the rear brake rotors on pads on my 2005 G35x. I've done this before on other vehicles without any issues but I'm having a problem on the drivers side rear brakes, they don't take long to get very hot.
I noticed it a week after the brake job so I figured maybe some debris was in there somewhere so I took the pads and rotor out, cleaned everything generously with brake cleaner, and installed everything again. Right before this, that side would only squeak when staying steady around 25mph, tapping of the brakes would usually make it go away for a moment. I thought I was in the clear because I drove home from the base hobby shop (not far though) and had no heat issues, however, the issue returned the next day.
I can drive a few blocks and brake at stop signs with no noticeable heat issues, but anything more then 3 or 4 miles of driving and braking at intersections will start to make things hot. I've done some research and I'm reading that the brake caliper piston may be bad? The car brakes just fine though, no odd feeling or noises, the car staying straight. I also don't think there is anything wrong with the brake hose, it looks good and when I re-installed everything I checked the hose to see if it was hot but only the caliper, rotors, and pads were. I had to wait awhile for them to cool, too hot to the touch to work on.
I will admit that although I'm normally ahead of the game, the back brakes were in desperate need of replacement, that side being in worse shape then the other. I'm wondering the caliper got damaged somehow? I don't know if it's normal for a piston to be able to close just fine but not retract.
#2
Maybe a little easy troubleshooting? Right after a drive, jack it up, remove the tire and see if the rotor spins freely (with gloves on of course). At that point, hopefully you'll probably be able to tell if the rotor may be warped or if the caliper is sticking...or both.
I'm not a brake person (at all) but I'm guessing that you bled the system as well?
Good luck!
I'm not a brake person (at all) but I'm guessing that you bled the system as well?
Good luck!
#3
#4
Rear calipers are notorious for seizing up onthe G35. What happens is the lower slide pin becomes seized in the caliper piston guide bracket. Usually a telltale sign is the pads being worn more on one side than the other.
Remove the left rear caliper and try to remove the two slide pins from the bracket. They should come out easily. If one is seized, try to free it, clean it up and relube. Replace the guild pin boot iff needed.
Reman calipers are cheap. $50 or so.
But it's a common issue with these cars.
Remove the left rear caliper and try to remove the two slide pins from the bracket. They should come out easily. If one is seized, try to free it, clean it up and relube. Replace the guild pin boot iff needed.
Reman calipers are cheap. $50 or so.
But it's a common issue with these cars.
#5
If you don't clean and relube the pins it can cause this. If the caliber is seized it can also cause this. If you jack up the rear end and have someone press the brakes, you should be able to tell if the caliber is seized. It should move freely without the pedal being depressed but if it stays the same with the pedal depressed, then it means the caliber is seized and should either be replaced or rebuilt. Try and see how that works out for you before you buy a new caliper. In my area, even with giving the old caliper, they're definitely more than $50
#6
Prices have actually come down since I bought one for my car off there.
Centric Reman caliper $29 + $60 core.
Plus here's a 5% off discount code: 58706B0C3F9D33
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 10-22-2014 at 09:32 AM.
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