Strut Replacement
#1
Strut Replacement
Foremost I would like to thank everyone for the help.
I have a 2004 G35 Coupe 5AT with about 175,000. I have never changed the suspension and it is really bad. I wan't to buy new struts, I found KYB struts for a reasonable price but it looks like they only come with struts.
My question is, are there any other parts that I should replace? I don't know much about suspension parts. Thanks
I have a 2004 G35 Coupe 5AT with about 175,000. I have never changed the suspension and it is really bad. I wan't to buy new struts, I found KYB struts for a reasonable price but it looks like they only come with struts.
My question is, are there any other parts that I should replace? I don't know much about suspension parts. Thanks
#2
Foremost I would like to thank everyone for the help.
I have a 2004 G35 Coupe 5AT with about 175,000. I have never changed the suspension and it is really bad. I wan't to buy new struts, I found KYB struts for a reasonable price but it looks like they only come with struts.
My question is, are there any other parts that I should replace? I don't know much about suspension parts. Thanks
I have a 2004 G35 Coupe 5AT with about 175,000. I have never changed the suspension and it is really bad. I wan't to buy new struts, I found KYB struts for a reasonable price but it looks like they only come with struts.
My question is, are there any other parts that I should replace? I don't know much about suspension parts. Thanks
OK, so of course they only come with shocks; what else would they come with? (I like the KYBs BTW)
Since you don't have suspension experience, I would suggest you get new compression rods and lower control arms. The bushings always go bad in these. You CAN just replace the bushings, but it would be much easier and not much more expensive to just buy new arms. If you wanna change the bushings in your existing arms, there is plenty of info on this forum. Otherwise hit up rickauto for the arms.
#3
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#5
The lower control arms connected to the steering knuckle ball joint. Then there's another arm going the other way. That's the comp rod.
The leg bones connected to the hip bone, the hip bones connected to the back bone. The hand bones connected to the...lap bone.
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#8
#10
Let's just get this outta the way: we have 4 shocks.
OK, so of course they only come with shocks; what else would they come with? (I like the KYBs BTW)
Since you don't have suspension experience, I would suggest you get new compression rods and lower control arms. The bushings always go bad in these. You CAN just replace the bushings, but it would be much easier and not much more expensive to just buy new arms. If you wanna change the bushings in your existing arms, there is plenty of info on this forum. Otherwise hit up rickauto for the arms.
OK, so of course they only come with shocks; what else would they come with? (I like the KYBs BTW)
Since you don't have suspension experience, I would suggest you get new compression rods and lower control arms. The bushings always go bad in these. You CAN just replace the bushings, but it would be much easier and not much more expensive to just buy new arms. If you wanna change the bushings in your existing arms, there is plenty of info on this forum. Otherwise hit up rickauto for the arms.
For the LCA's, as long as they aren't bent or suffering from some other ailment, just replace the innermost bushing with Whiteline as well.
What say you Gdirtyfive55?
#11
I second new compression rods since they have a ball joint in them that can't be replaced. Of course you don't HAVE to since they'll be new, but I went ahead and had the OEM bushings pressed out of my brand new compression rods and replaced with Whiteline.
For the LCA's, as long as they aren't bent or suffering from some other ailment, just replace the innermost bushing with Whiteline as well.
What say you Gdirtyfive55?
For the LCA's, as long as they aren't bent or suffering from some other ailment, just replace the innermost bushing with Whiteline as well.
What say you Gdirtyfive55?
#12
I replaced all four of my shocks with the following:
Tokico HP Blues in front
KYB in rear
I would get new mounts odds are with that mileage the nuts will be seized and difficult to remove. I had to Dremel mine off.
You should also get new dust shields for the front shocks. The rears were re-usable in mine as long as they were sound. Check your lower compression arms (run from wheel to body and shock attaches to them). Make sure the bushings aren't protruding you can try sticking a pry bar in there and see if you can move them side to side. You can press the bushings out, but mine were so shot the metal started rubbing against the metal and warped them. I replaced both with Dorman's for about 50 bucks. I still have my original compression rods.
Jack the car up and grab the wheel at various places and check for side to side or up and down movement. If it's secure you're tie rods are in good shape.
I'd purchase the following tools:
Electric impact gun from Harbor Freight 50 bucks.
Big breaker bar and something for leverage (jack handle works great)
PB blaster
Torch
Rent the following from Advance Auto Zone
Macpherson strut compressor (get the one with clips)
Pickle fork, however this can damage your ball joints if used wrong. Try renting a ball joint separator. I had to replace my ball joints since the pickle fork penetrated the ball joint when I separate them.
When you change the struts it's extremely dangerous compressing the springs. The electric wrench works best for this. I'd so some research on doing the actual procedure, so you know what you're getting into with.
Tokico HP Blues in front
KYB in rear
I would get new mounts odds are with that mileage the nuts will be seized and difficult to remove. I had to Dremel mine off.
You should also get new dust shields for the front shocks. The rears were re-usable in mine as long as they were sound. Check your lower compression arms (run from wheel to body and shock attaches to them). Make sure the bushings aren't protruding you can try sticking a pry bar in there and see if you can move them side to side. You can press the bushings out, but mine were so shot the metal started rubbing against the metal and warped them. I replaced both with Dorman's for about 50 bucks. I still have my original compression rods.
Jack the car up and grab the wheel at various places and check for side to side or up and down movement. If it's secure you're tie rods are in good shape.
I'd purchase the following tools:
Electric impact gun from Harbor Freight 50 bucks.
Big breaker bar and something for leverage (jack handle works great)
PB blaster
Torch
Rent the following from Advance Auto Zone
Macpherson strut compressor (get the one with clips)
Pickle fork, however this can damage your ball joints if used wrong. Try renting a ball joint separator. I had to replace my ball joints since the pickle fork penetrated the ball joint when I separate them.
When you change the struts it's extremely dangerous compressing the springs. The electric wrench works best for this. I'd so some research on doing the actual procedure, so you know what you're getting into with.
#14
#15
Coffeysm,
For the KYB rear shocks, I'm assuming it's the Excel-G model. Do you mind sharing the KYB part number for the rear shocks? I tried to do the same but got stuck because the P/N 349096 doesn't fit with the stock mount. Am I supposed to change out the rear mount with the KYB mount (P/N SM5482) too to make it fit?
For the KYB rear shocks, I'm assuming it's the Excel-G model. Do you mind sharing the KYB part number for the rear shocks? I tried to do the same but got stuck because the P/N 349096 doesn't fit with the stock mount. Am I supposed to change out the rear mount with the KYB mount (P/N SM5482) too to make it fit?
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G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07
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08-10-2015 06:50 PM