Question on lower control arm bushings

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  #1  
Old 10-18-2014, 06:49 PM
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Question on lower control arm bushings

Got a quick question on the compression arm bushings.

This is the arm in question


Does anyone know if there is a specific way to install bushings.
Here is what I mean.

These are armstrong bushings.


As you can see they are round with a flat cut outs (across each other)

This is a stock bushing



There is also some sort of an indicator on the bushing and it is hollow in two places across each other as well.

So the question is. Is there a right and a wrong way to install these bushings? Should the hollow side be facing into any particular direction?

Appreciate the feedback.
 

Last edited by JOKER; 10-18-2014 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:14 PM
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I think the bottom of page 2 answers your questions...

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...-bushings.html
 
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:52 AM
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Could not find any official info on how they need to be installed. So I installed mine based on the pictures.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 05:13 PM
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I have a pair of these and plan to get them pressed in tomorrow. All the threads I've seen are old now and the pictures with orientation are no longer available. I have a single source for how these should be orientated stating the flat side of the bushing needs to face the front of the vehicle found in this thread:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ml#post7040396

So my questions:
1. How do I orientate these.
2. Is that lip/edge an issue (it's not on the other end) - Look right where the flash is concentrated and then look at the bottom of the bush.
3. What grease should I use - comes with lithium, link below recommends lithium, every thread I read hear recommends silicone.
4. Where? Everywhere? - Link below also says simply all contact points.





https://www.suspensionconnection.com...thane-bushing/
 

Last edited by BradMD_96; 02-23-2017 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 02-23-2017, 05:51 PM
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Update:

Just called armstrong distributors, great customer service - For anyone unsure.

1. Confirmed that the flat part must face towards the front (and rear) of the car.
2. Still need to question this
3. They say they have had complaints of squeaks from using silicone and they highly recommend lithium. Also mentioned squeaks are usually the result of not cleaning out the comp rod bore properly.
4. Grease the contact surface between bush and comp rod bore. Also remove the metal insert/tube, grease the hole and put the insert/tube back in.

This is the lip in question


 

Last edited by BradMD_96; 02-23-2017 at 06:04 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2017, 12:22 PM
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Either get a press to press them out or burn them out. You'll need a lot of lube and a vice grip to get the bushings in.
 
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Old 03-04-2017, 11:57 AM
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Use a hydraulic press to get er done.
 
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Old 03-04-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by brojohanson
Either get a press to press them out or burn them out. You'll need a lot of lube and a vice grip to get the bushings in.
You can't just burn them out. You can burn out the rubber, but then you have to use a hacksaw to carefully cut out the race (metal ring) that's left behind.
 
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:50 PM
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I sorted this out last week, was very simple.
Luckily found a nice sized piece of aluminium and an appropriately sized bit of pvc tubing.
The lithium grease supplied with the bushings was more than enough.

 
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Old 03-05-2017, 11:34 AM
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"Simple"
 
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:44 AM
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For future reference, the flat part should be oriented to that it faces the ball joint. I guess that's technically the front of the car, but it's a more specific focal point for orientation. If you draw a line between the ball joint and the bushing, the line should hit the center of the flat spot. The flat spot is there to allow the arm to articulate up and down. On the stock bushings, there's a little tab, that should point directly at the ball joint. Source: the TSB (ITB08-013a) for replacing the compression rod bushing has a handy picture.
 
Attached Thumbnails Question on lower control arm bushings-compression-rod-bushing-alignment.png  

Last edited by LoSt180; 03-06-2017 at 10:50 AM.
  #12  
Old 03-06-2017, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
"Simple"
Well, it is once there's no hickups like broken bolts or studs.
6 bolts and 2 nuts and the A-frame is off.
2 nuts for each ball joint + some mallet action and the arms are off.
Press bush out, lube new one, press bush in.
Putting the arm back in can be tricky because of the whole susp leg is pressed down with the spring in place. I loose fitted the ball joint, used a jack to compress the suspension a little at a time whilst tapping the comp rod bush up along the stud till it's seated.
Then bolts/nuts back in, torque and cotter pin where needed.

Originally Posted by LoSt180
For future reference, the flat part should be oriented to that it faces the ball joint. I guess that's technically the front of the car, but it's a more specific focal point for orientation. If you draw a line between the ball joint and the bushing, the line should hit the center of the flat spot. The flat spot is there to allow the arm to articulate up and down. On the stock bushings, there's a little tab, that should point directly at the ball joint. Source: the TSB (ITB08-013a) for replacing the compression rod bushing has a handy picture.
That image works for the OEM bushing. Without any research I would have followed something like that for the Armstrong bushings just by observing how the bush should be allowed to pivot and where it should stay constrained. But after calling Armstrong/PSB I got the instructions as mentioned above.
 
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