Rear Passenger Side Caliper Sticking?

I have had this issue for a couple of months now on and off and my car will every once in a while, normally in the morning, will vibrate something fierce. When i park it i do the quick once over and i smell a strong brake smell and there is significant heat radiating from wheel.

On a side note my driver side rear rotors have a very skinny wear pattern as opposed to the wheels?

Also i replaced all rotors f/r and new pads on all 4 about 6 months ago, so that isn't the issue.

Is there a quick easy way to fix/identify the problem?

Should i bring the car to the installer and have them take a look?

would they check it out for free possibly?

 

Have them look. But common seized caliper symptoms. get it fixed asap. It will warp your rotor and cause major glazing

 

yeah i definitely am gonna let them take a look...hopefully it is just something that needs to be adjusted as opposed to being replaced. Because i wont just be able to replace 1 caliper.

but it doesn't feel like it is completely seized obviously because i don't feel like the car lurches forwards significantly when i let off of the gas.

 

Why won't you be able to replace one caliper? Its easy. I did mine when it happened. Caliper cost me 40 bucks used.

But I would def get your rotor returned after because it will be toast. I wouldn't even drive the car to be honest. It will cook your bearings as well.

 

i would just think that it would look awful with one new caliper and 3 old ones. maybe not. Ill have to bring it to the shop this week

hopefully it hasnt broken anything else yet

but with my luck im sure there are other things effected by this

 

They do make paint for calipers...


These cars are notorious for sticking rear calipers. The back calipers hang pretty low on the car and the bottom pin is prone to sticking/seizing. Also sometimes the piston seizes inside the bore as well.

Plus side is reman calipers are dirt cheap. Check out rockauto.com but they are in the $35-50 range plus core. They even sell the bracket that the pins seize in if you do not want to crack a brake line and just want to swap out the bracket.

The fix is to remove the slide pins, clean and relube them so the caliper moves freely if you were to install without any pads.

I'd just order up a reman caliper, grab some brake fluid and swap it out

 

thanks for the repsonses guys...took the car to the shop where they installed and they couldnt even move the wheel when it was on the lift...put the car in gear and as soon as they let off the gas the wheel stopped immediately...no wonder i have been getting **** poor gas mileage since the problem started occuring.

Had the calipers off the car yesterday just doing a little research and the piston was completely seized...had to use multiple c clamps just to get the piston compressed so that it would take a little pressure off of the brakes, but this is just a temp fix until this weekend when i can actually replace both the calipers.

But the one bright spot is, like mustang said, at least it is a cheap part to fix. Maybe the first part for the car that wasnt so dang expensive.

And then on another sour note, while under the car i just decided to take a peek at the rear subframe bushing and it is completely shot. wondered why i didnt see any leaking fluid, but that was more than likely becuase it has been completely blown and empty for a long time now. So i guess that is the next project, although i am the first to admit that i am not exactly a solid "wrench" But i have good buddies that are so maybe they will help me out for some beers...guess ill find out

 

LongJohn we realized you weren't a "Solid Wrench" when you didn't correct the sized caliper the minute you discovered the smell and super hot rotor. Since you've let this go for so long you may have also warped or destroyed the rotor and flat spotted your tire! These type of issues need to be addressed immediately, not when you can get around to it.
Gary