Need a Brake Kit - Very Little Idea of What I Need, Nub Alert

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Old 08-19-2015, 04:12 PM
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Need a Brake Kit - Very Little Idea of What I Need, Nub Alert

I just got a 2006 G35X... yesterday. So hello to all.

I've lurked in the forums for a while pre-purchase. I'm heavily conflicted as to what I want/need.

I have stock Infiniti wheels. I've seen some people say the wheels are different sizes front vs back.

I honestly have no idea what I need.

As an application, I don't race or anything. What I really want/need is rust resistance for rain/snow salt. I live in Ohio - snowy, salty, rainy, all that. Hence the G35X for 4WD.

Before everyone yells at me and says Ctrl-F/search function you idiot, from what I've gathered in the forums, some people say "just do OEM and call it a day" while other people say "OEM is pure garbage get after market so you don't end up with car wobbling, juddering, rust issues etc."

I test drove the 2012 G37X, three different cars from 20k to 58k miles - they ALL wobbled heavily under ALL breaking conditions, 20 mph, 40 mph, 60 mph, etc. I ended up choosing the 2006 G35X strictly based on braking performance, and the fact that the car didn't make me feel blantantly unsafe driving off the dealer lot. Budget was a consideration, but that's an aside.

Anyway, so long story short, I'm thinking of getting a brake kit. Perhaps zinc plated, I see zinc somehow resists salt? Unless there's something better.

I don't know what slotted/drilled means. I've seen some people say you don't need a big brake kit for daily driving, and that the holes are good for air cooling but make the rotors more brittle, perhaps? It also seems that a BBK is for track performance, but I'm not driving on a track, I'm going back and forth from work, period. I might have some occasional fun, but nothing super crazy - got kids and all that. For fit, I need to fit it on my stock wheels.

So I've seen recommendations for slotted only, but perhaps even that is overkill.

At any rate, what I'm REALLY looking for is a full brake kit that is snow/salt/rain resistant, that won't warp and cause vibration like the OEM stock stuff that I've experienced first hand test driving half a dozen G35/37's. So when people say "get Brembo OEM" I take that to mean it will end up with the same issues as the normal OEM Infiniti/Nissan ones - by design, if you use OEM, you will get OEM problems. Purely an engineering issue.

So if it's an engineering issue, and the aftermarket stuff has SOLVED the poor design of the OEM, then I'm looking for something that a) solves the issues of the poor design (wobble, judder, vibration), b) resists the Ohio weather conditions, and c) won't wear out quickly. Brake pads that don't cause dust or whatever, that don't turn into mush after 10k miles.

Any recommendations would be appreciated. Safety, reliability, not having to redo the work at my guy's shop every year, these are my desired attributes of a brake kit I would want, per everyone's expert recommendations.

Totally new here, actually know very little about cars in general aside from what, Initial D, so forgiveness before the pitchforks, please!

to you all.
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 10:23 AM
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192 views and no responses, I must be so totally out of my element people have no words for a helpless new bee like me.
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:41 AM
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Need a Brake Kit - Very Little Idea of What I Need, Nub Alert

You are over thinking this. You test drove cars that had no dealer prep that needed brake jobs. OEM is fine for your needs. I bought at 74k. Would have to look at records to see when prior job was done. Just got new pads and rotors turned at 92K. Mostly city driving. Did the job because pads low; no judder. OEM pads are low dust and work fine. You do not need drilled/slotted. If you want no rust on rotors, paint area at hub. Appearance issue only; not a safety or performance concern.
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:46 AM
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Need a Brake Kit - Very Little Idea of What I Need, Nub Alert

Oh and for the AWD, wheels are square. All the same size. Equal outside diameter critical to avoid damaging AWD system. Requires advanced tire size calculations to run "staggered" (rear wider than front). You don't need to mess with that. Stick with four wheels all same size.
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:22 PM
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The Gs you drove that had the shimmy in the steering wheel/brake pedal was caused by warped rotors! Generally the cause is someone using an impact gun to install the wheels, they should only be installed using an torque wrench set at 80 psi! OEM rotors will rust in your neighborhood over night! DBA rotors will last years without rust and stop way better than OE, I suggest slotted which will wipe road crud off while driving. Our marketplace under vendor brakes is a great place to find DBAs on a deal, check it out! Enjoy the ride...Gary
 
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:25 PM
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I'll take a picture of my G when I get home. I got the coated rotor ones and they've held up to my hand washing and general use for two Ohio winters so far.

The drilled is risky because of cracking b/c poor QC in production of non-OEM. Remember the more pad to actual rotor contact the better the fade (more surface area provides better heat distribution .

You can do what 5150S said and just paint the hats of oem like rotors. I would personally avoid OEM and go with centric aftermarket parts.

Okay?
 

Last edited by Urbanengineer; 08-20-2015 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by gary c
The Gs you drove that had the shimmy in the steering wheel/brake pedal was caused by warped rotors! Generally the cause is someone using an impact gun to install the wheels, they should only be installed using an torque wrench set at 80 psi! OEM rotors will rust in your neighborhood over night! DBA rotors will last years without rust and stop way better than OE, I suggest slotted which will wipe road crud off while driving. Our marketplace under vendor brakes is a great place to find DBAs on a deal, check it out! Enjoy the ride...Gary
Dude, PSI is in FT-LB.
 
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
I'll take a picture of my G when I get home. I got the coated rotor ones and they've held up to my hand washing and general use for two Ohio winters so far.

The drilled is risky because of cracking b/c poor QC in production of non-OEM. Remember the more pad to actual rotor contact the better the fade (more surface area provides better heat distribution .

You can do what 5150S said and just paint the hats of oem like rotors. I would personally avoid OEM and go with centric aftermarket parts.

Okay?
_________________________________
Amazon.com: Mercedes w204 w207 Brake Disc Rear L+R (x2) 'Z' COATED rotor: Automotive Amazon.com: Mercedes w204 w207 Brake Disc Rear L+R (x2) 'Z' COATED rotor: Automotive

Mercedes rotors on your G35? Does that work?
 
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
Dude, PSI is in FT-LB.
No. There's a new wrench that uses atmospheric pressure now. Measures in PSI

Back to OP.
The OEM brakes were improved for 05/06 sedans. It was the ones prior to that which had warping issues. So you can knock that off your list of worries.

For our sedans, from factory for me and the X without a doubt, you'll be running a square setup. Staggared setups don't work for G35X.

Rust protection will all be dependent on the rotors you use. I recommend a plain rotor, and if you really want to have something a little more fancy. Slotted at most. Drilled is a no-no in my personal opinion. As Gary mentioned you can try out the DBA rotors, Gary is one of our more experienced/smarter members (minus the PSI typo) so you can take his word for it.

I don't recommend going for any aftermarket brake kit. It's not worth the money and is focused for tracking most of the time.
 
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Old 10-05-2015, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Spartan268
No. There's a new wrench that uses atmospheric pressure now. Measures in PSI

Back to OP.
The OEM brakes were improved for 05/06 sedans. It was the ones prior to that which had warping issues. So you can knock that off your list of worries.

For our sedans, from factory for me and the X without a doubt, you'll be running a square setup. Staggared setups don't work for G35X.

Rust protection will all be dependent on the rotors you use. I recommend a plain rotor, and if you really want to have something a little more fancy. Slotted at most. Drilled is a no-no in my personal opinion. As Gary mentioned you can try out the DBA rotors, Gary is one of our more experienced/smarter members (minus the PSI typo) so you can take his word for it.

I don't recommend going for any aftermarket brake kit. It's not worth the money and is focused for tracking most of the time.

EBC rotors and Akebono ceramic pads are now installed. I like the black hat, no red rings of rust for me!
 
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