Z1 Motorsports FUCA ??
#1
Z1 Motorsports FUCA ??
Hello everyone, I am planning to lower my '03 G35 Coupe about 2.5" and am in the market for a set of front upper control arms. I am looking to purchase the Z1 Motorsports FUCA's, but before doing so I would like to see if anybody on here is running them & would like to give me their opinion on the product. Im looking for a quality set of FUCA's for the daily that won't see any track use, but that'll last me many years, aren't too noisy, & that'll bring me back into spec. Any help would be much appreciated!!!
#2
Z1 Motorsports FUCA ??
Hello everyone, I am planning to lower my '03 G35 Coupe about 2.5" and am in the market for a set of front upper control arms. I am looking to purchase the Z1 Motorsports FUCA's, but before doing so I would like to see if anybody on here is running them & would like to give me their opinion on the product. Im looking for a quality set of FUCA's for the daily that won't see any track use, but that'll last me many years, aren't too noisy, & that'll bring me back into spec. Any help would be much appreciated!!!
#3
The Z1 UCAs are a fairly new product to that market so won't be many people running them. However, Z1 is a solid brand and those arms have the option of solid (SPL) or ball joint (SPC) style. SPC and SPL have been the top choices of drivers that I've seen, SPL is on the more expensive side but they are meant for more track use.
Is there a specific degree of camber you're looking at getting? That will help your decision.
Is there a specific degree of camber you're looking at getting? That will help your decision.
#4
The Z1 UCAs are a fairly new product to that market so won't be many people running them. However, Z1 is a solid brand and those arms have the option of solid (SPL) or ball joint (SPC) style. SPC and SPL have been the top choices of drivers that I've seen, SPL is on the more expensive side but they are meant for more track use.
Is there a specific degree of camber you're looking at getting? That will help your decision.
Is there a specific degree of camber you're looking at getting? That will help your decision.
#5
Why dont you email/call Z1 themselves and ask. Theyre pretty good at responding.
I bought them and from the construction it looks like you adjust at the balljoint; to do that you have to remove it from the knuckle (not car). Its threaded in and locked with a jam nut on the arm. The part that was weird was that the bushings are also like this. Im guessing thats for some extreme setups though. If you're just correcting minor adjustments, I dont think it would be a PITA.
Id like to confirm as well, but Im fairly certain thats how it is. Its completely retarded to have to take the arm off to adjust, and Z1 is known for track racing so id doubt it. Id be surprised if that was the procedure.
The ball joint doesn't have a cotter pin holding it in, and its easy to take on and off the knuckle.
I bought them and from the construction it looks like you adjust at the balljoint; to do that you have to remove it from the knuckle (not car). Its threaded in and locked with a jam nut on the arm. The part that was weird was that the bushings are also like this. Im guessing thats for some extreme setups though. If you're just correcting minor adjustments, I dont think it would be a PITA.
Id like to confirm as well, but Im fairly certain thats how it is. Its completely retarded to have to take the arm off to adjust, and Z1 is known for track racing so id doubt it. Id be surprised if that was the procedure.
The ball joint doesn't have a cotter pin holding it in, and its easy to take on and off the knuckle.
Last edited by Ricky Ramos; 12-18-2015 at 08:24 AM.
#6
Why dont you email/call Z1 themselves and ask. Theyre pretty good at responding.
I bought them and from the construction it looks like you adjust at the balljoint; to do that you have to remove it from the knuckle (not car). Its threaded in and locked with a jam nut on the arm. The part that was weird was that the bushings are also like this. Im guessing thats for some extreme setups though. If you're just correcting minor adjustments, I dont think it would be a PITA.
Id like to confirm as well, but Im fairly certain thats how it is. Its completely retarded to have to take the arm off to adjust, and Z1 is known for track racing so id doubt it. Id be surprised if that was the procedure.
The ball joint doesn't have a cotter pin holding it in, and its easy to take on and off the knuckle.
I bought them and from the construction it looks like you adjust at the balljoint; to do that you have to remove it from the knuckle (not car). Its threaded in and locked with a jam nut on the arm. The part that was weird was that the bushings are also like this. Im guessing thats for some extreme setups though. If you're just correcting minor adjustments, I dont think it would be a PITA.
Id like to confirm as well, but Im fairly certain thats how it is. Its completely retarded to have to take the arm off to adjust, and Z1 is known for track racing so id doubt it. Id be surprised if that was the procedure.
The ball joint doesn't have a cotter pin holding it in, and its easy to take on and off the knuckle.
#7
Thanks for the response! Yes, the procedure you stated makes much more sense to me instead of having to remove the arms entirely off of the car. I will be ordering a set tomorrow, and before doing so will give them a call to see what they say. By the way do you have these already installed on your car? If so, are they squeaky?
No squeaks so far, its been 3-4 days. They have fittings to grease if they do anyway (if you get the street version). Shouldnt squeak if its lubed.
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#8
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Just to confirm for you guys, I had my car aligned. Alignment is done by just threading the ball joint in or out. No need to take the entire arm off like I was assuming. You can have extra adjustment if you thread the bushings out, but that would be for some extreme camber correction.
my screen name is different but I have a FB login as well. Sometimes I can't remember my PW haha.
my screen name is different but I have a FB login as well. Sometimes I can't remember my PW haha.
#12
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For those of you who have installed the Z1 arms....I really really need some help/advice. I have hese arms went to install, but went back to stock because i wasnt sure about the how to thread the 2 rear bolts. Can anyone advise on installing these arms ?
I wrote Z1 and they responded right away , however they are used to having the vehicle on had to adjust as necessary. They sugested laying the Z1 arm over the OEM arm and start there.
Any advice on what you guys did ?
turn the rear bolts all the way in and turned out the outer bolt which connects to the upper Knuckle assembly or turn half way...out, or match to OEM arm ?
Thanks all
I wrote Z1 and they responded right away , however they are used to having the vehicle on had to adjust as necessary. They sugested laying the Z1 arm over the OEM arm and start there.
Any advice on what you guys did ?
turn the rear bolts all the way in and turned out the outer bolt which connects to the upper Knuckle assembly or turn half way...out, or match to OEM arm ?
Thanks all
#13
For those of you who have installed the Z1 arms....I really really need some help/advice. I have hese arms went to install, but went back to stock because i wasnt sure about the how to thread the 2 rear bolts. Can anyone advise on installing these arms ?
I wrote Z1 and they responded right away , however they are used to having the vehicle on had to adjust as necessary. They sugested laying the Z1 arm over the OEM arm and start there.
Any advice on what you guys did ?
turn the rear bolts all the way in and turned out the outer bolt which connects to the upper Knuckle assembly or turn half way...out, or match to OEM arm ?
Thanks all
I wrote Z1 and they responded right away , however they are used to having the vehicle on had to adjust as necessary. They sugested laying the Z1 arm over the OEM arm and start there.
Any advice on what you guys did ?
turn the rear bolts all the way in and turned out the outer bolt which connects to the upper Knuckle assembly or turn half way...out, or match to OEM arm ?
Thanks all
Once installed that got me close enough to within spec that I could drive to the alignment shop. For my particular case, they needed to remove the arms during alignment to adjust the inner threads a little but Subsequent alignments won't need to touch the inner threads. They're meant for extra adjustment and most of the adjustment can be done with the outside threaded joint.
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