While replacing Struts/ Shocks.. what else to do?
#1
While replacing Struts/ Shocks.. what else to do?
Question for you guys who are the pros. I am doing shocks and struts on the 04 coupe (94k miles). It takes bumps harder then I care so I think they should be done, from what I read 94k miles they should be done anyway. I am just going with the KYB since I don't track and I probably would never adjust the adjustable anyway.
With 94k on the car, (this car only gets about 7k miles a year) what else would you do? I see talk about the lower control arms, RockAuto has Dormans for $52 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...id=383&jpid=31 with the ball joints. Is this necessary?
Anything I am missing? or should I not even bother with the control arms and just do the struts/ shocks and of course the strut/ shock mount kits?
Thanks,
Chris
With 94k on the car, (this car only gets about 7k miles a year) what else would you do? I see talk about the lower control arms, RockAuto has Dormans for $52 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...id=383&jpid=31 with the ball joints. Is this necessary?
Anything I am missing? or should I not even bother with the control arms and just do the struts/ shocks and of course the strut/ shock mount kits?
Thanks,
Chris
#2
Question for you guys who are the pros. I am doing shocks and struts on the 04 coupe (94k miles). It takes bumps harder then I care so I think they should be done, from what I read 94k miles they should be done anyway. I am just going with the KYB since I don't track and I probably would never adjust the adjustable anyway.
With 94k on the car, (this car only gets about 7k miles a year) what else would you do? I see talk about the lower control arms, RockAuto has Dormans for $52 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...id=383&jpid=31 with the ball joints. Is this necessary?
Anything I am missing? or should I not even bother with the control arms and just do the struts/ shocks and of course the strut/ shock mount kits?
Thanks,
Chris
With 94k on the car, (this car only gets about 7k miles a year) what else would you do? I see talk about the lower control arms, RockAuto has Dormans for $52 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...id=383&jpid=31 with the ball joints. Is this necessary?
Anything I am missing? or should I not even bother with the control arms and just do the struts/ shocks and of course the strut/ shock mount kits?
Thanks,
Chris
Is replacing ALL the arms or bushings necessary right now? No. Would it make your car ride like a brand new car again? Yes.
If you're planning on taking this to a shop to do, it wont be cheap to replace all these arms. Its really not super hard to DIY, just get a buddy and some long ratchets to break the nuts.
Last edited by Ricky Ramos; 12-13-2015 at 09:38 AM.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
There's only one way to find out what's worn on a suspension like yours with that kinda mileage, find an independent brake/alignment shop in your area and have them look at what needs to be replaced. You're going to need an alignment anyway once you replace suspension parts, may as well have them check it out!
Gary
Gary
#4
Thanks guys.. I am having fun as I learn about all this stuff. I have air tools too so I am well prepared for the shocks and struts.
I had the wheels off today since I just did all new calipers, rotors and pads and wanted to re-bleed the system today and double check everything.
A couple of questions for you guys and thank you in advance. I am new to all of this and am having fun learning and working on this... can I ask a couple of questions?
1) Is it true to check the control arms with the car up on jacks if you put your hands at 9 and 3 and wiggle the wheel you should see movement in the wheel if the control arm/ joints are worn out? I checked both the wheels and there was no movement at all. Once I moved the wheel enough the other moved right along with it mimicking it. That means the control arms are still in good shape and don't need replacement at this point?
2) I checked the tie rods as well since I had everything apart as well. I couldn't find any looseness/ movement at all. So they should be good still as well?
I am thinking I might just do shocks and struts but don't want to skimp, if it needs control arms, minus well do them but if they are still good, I figure I will do them down the road if/ when they wear out.
3) Also, can I ask what is in the third picture titled "what-is-this. Does that eventually wear out as well?
Thank you guys... this is all stuff that I probably should of known by now but am just learning and having a pissa as I do...
Chris
I had the wheels off today since I just did all new calipers, rotors and pads and wanted to re-bleed the system today and double check everything.
A couple of questions for you guys and thank you in advance. I am new to all of this and am having fun learning and working on this... can I ask a couple of questions?
1) Is it true to check the control arms with the car up on jacks if you put your hands at 9 and 3 and wiggle the wheel you should see movement in the wheel if the control arm/ joints are worn out? I checked both the wheels and there was no movement at all. Once I moved the wheel enough the other moved right along with it mimicking it. That means the control arms are still in good shape and don't need replacement at this point?
2) I checked the tie rods as well since I had everything apart as well. I couldn't find any looseness/ movement at all. So they should be good still as well?
I am thinking I might just do shocks and struts but don't want to skimp, if it needs control arms, minus well do them but if they are still good, I figure I will do them down the road if/ when they wear out.
3) Also, can I ask what is in the third picture titled "what-is-this. Does that eventually wear out as well?
Thank you guys... this is all stuff that I probably should of known by now but am just learning and having a pissa as I do...
Chris
#5
First pic is the front upper control arm (has two bushings hinging from the car), second - lower control arm (it has a inner bushing and a outter bushing for the strut), third - compression rod (you can either buy the whole arm or like i said press out the bushing).
You can press the bushings out yourself and replace them. if you have a press its way easier. Just not recommended for the upper control arm for reasons mentioned above.
i dont know of any specific ways of diagnosing the arms, generally if theyre torn/cracked theyre bad. At 95K, its probably getting close to being torn/worn anyway.
You can press the bushings out yourself and replace them. if you have a press its way easier. Just not recommended for the upper control arm for reasons mentioned above.
i dont know of any specific ways of diagnosing the arms, generally if theyre torn/cracked theyre bad. At 95K, its probably getting close to being torn/worn anyway.
Last edited by Ricky Ramos; 12-14-2015 at 12:49 AM.
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LI-G35Driver (12-14-2015)
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