I picked up my g35 coupe a few weeks ago, and a buddy of mine works at a tires plus so I figured eh why not get an alignment for cheap.



Those are the results. The tech said the the drivers side camber adjustment was maxed out and that was the best he could do.

What would happen to cause it to be that far out of adjustment? Is there any way to get it back in spec without doing adjustable arms, or is that realistically my only option?

Thanks.

 

Firstly, is the car lowered at all? Second, G's sometimes sag more in the driver side. Sag = lower and lower = more natural camber. Albeit those numbers aren't too far out of spec to really be upset about, but they dont match side to side and that would be annoying.

Third, dealing with the red highlights, our cars do not come with stock camber adjustment on the front and the rear is VERY minimal. You can only adjust toe from the factory all around, so in order to remedy the camber issue, FUCA and rear camber arms will need to be purchased.

 

Hopping on this thread......... with the G's sagging on the driver side. My G is lower on the driver side too. Is that caused by old springs, if not what is it? Because mine has been lower on the driver side with the OEM springs and with the Tein s-techs too.

 

It's a common thing for the driver side to sag more (whether stock springs or upgraded) when the stock shocks are also retained. I read a thread a while ago that said the driver side of the car weighed more than the passenger (steering column, heavier driver seat and gas tank ) plus the driver always being the car causes fatigue and therefore sag. This will go away if you go with a coilover setup. One remedy was to swap the rear springs and some said it helped slightly. Can't comment on that because my car has always had coils.

 

Thank you for the response. I don't think the car is lowered, and stupid me when changing the oil earlier in the week, didn't think to look. I'm wondering if replacing the struts/shocks would help at all? If they're worn and sagging replacements should make a difference, although I would guess not by much.

I do plan to autocross at some point, so I guess getting the adjustable camber arms wouldn't be a bad thing in the long run.

 

Then you should also look into a quality set of coilovers, as they will vastly improve your handling. Sway bars should also be on the list because they're one of the best bang for the buck mods on our cars.

 

All of the issues are most likely due to worn bushings of corresponding positions.

 

I was going to post a new thread, but then I found this one. It's perfect so lets get some info going.

I'll post my alignment sheet as well.. but I just noticed something. Mine says "G35 coupe with 17" wheels" and I have 18s on it, and it is a Sport coupe to begin with, so 18" OEM. I was tired the day I had it done from just working all night, or I would have noticed. Not sure if that will make a difference in specs or not.

Here are the details.. looking for an open dialogue to find out the best setups for everyone.

2003 G35 6mt Sport Coupe. Bilstein dampers, and Eibach Pro Kit from a 350z. Just replaced the entire front end suspension, MevoTech brand upper/lower control arms, inner/outer tie rods, compression rod and ball joints. In the back I installed the SPC camber arms and the SPC toe eccentrics. The car feels drum tight now. No squeaks or rattles. The only thing left out, and I hope to take care of that Thursday is that the rear diff bushing is shot. The Whiteline diff kit goes in Thursday to take that out of the equation.

The problem is, with the current specs the car feels very twitchy going down the road. Not confidence inspiring at all, the back end is nervous over bumps, and seems to want to follow trails it never did before. In contrast, with the old bushings in, the car felt like it was on rails and I loved the handling, I could just tell the parts were old and needed replaced by the knocking and banging over bumps, but it was never unsettled.

Right now the best analogy I have is that the car feels top heavy, and it never did before. I want my sports car back.. this thing feels like a boat.

In the rain on the way home from work this morning it felt almost dangerous.. and I'm used to swinging the tail of a car around and I was worried.

Help if you can..

 

I need to get an alignment also - as I have dog tracking issues (follows road violently).

After driving the Q60 Sport though... this may just be how Infiniti intended the feel through the steering wheel to be. I mean everything was "dampened" before and now it's all super tight! Set the toe closer to 0 and it might be less aggressive .

 

Post number 8 you need compression rod bushings in the front and new shocks all around.

 

The tracking and understeer can sometimes be from too much of a stagger in front/back wheel size. What size tires do you have?

 

There is that reading problem again. Please re-read post #8. All new parts.

 

Stock on rays, it's not the w/t setup .

Epik has all new parts.

 

This is a good thread to consolidate all our tracking issues.
I am lowered on Tein s techs. All other suspension components are stock besides new poly compression rod bushings. Also, my car is lower on the drivers side - not sure why, it was this way with both OEM and Tein springs. I even tried to level the rear by cutting one spring mount and adding it to the other, worked for a little but it seems to have settled back slanted again.

I'm running 255 35 20 and 285 30 20. I changed the comp rod bushings because I was experiencing a bit of wander and excessive tire wear on the front right. After inspection the bushes looked cracked/torn. After replacement the car did feel tighter, less wander, more responsive steering - definitely noticeable. I then had an alignment and since then the car feels slightly more darty/wondering but maybe somewhere half way between the old bushings and the new bushings (before alignment). My only understanding for this could be because I had excess toe prior to the alignment which would have made the car wander less.

I need to go back for a re-alignment anyway as you can see from the pic the guy increased my rear end camber. I'm not expecting to get back into spec tolerances but it defo should have at least been reduced and not increased.

Also about the 17/18 inch thing (and 19 too). Apparently the only difference with the figures are that the larger diameter wheels have smaller tolerance. I imagine this is because the thicker 17 inch tires can accommodate some misalignment better.

EDIT: Just had a good look at my printout. It doesn't make sense that my front left has less camber than my front right, when my left side is lower than the right... Or maybe because my car is tilted left side down, looking from the rear of the car, the wheels rotate anti clockwise slightly.

 

I don't care what it says, your compression rod bushings are already shot. That's the problem with the suspension angle of our cars: rubber in the comp rod position can literally go in one day, ESPECIALLY if you have a modified suspension; that's why everyone uses poly.

You don't have to believe me, but that's the only thing that can affect your front caster unless you have caster adjustment on your upper control arms, but if you did, I hope you didnt ask about it without adjusting it properly.

Also, you said the whole FRONT suspension is new, and I said you need new shocks ALL AROUND. So, yeah, about that reading comprehension..