I've been looking for a new car ever since my wife and I switched from a two car family to a one car after the untimely demise of my '10 Toyota Camry. While searching around, I came across this listing:

http://www.muller-honda.com/2007-inf...go-c-32791.htm

for a 2007 Infiniti G35 Base with just under 75k miles at just under $13k. Now, I've never really negotiated with a car salesman (let alone a used car salesman), but I feel like I should be able to haggle down to $11k (or maybe less!) given the state of the rotors, backseat, removal of rear name badges, and sheer age of the car.

Now here come the questions:

1. Is this a good deal?
2. Is my negotiation strategy on the right track?
3. And what else should I be on the lookout for as far as signs of misuse or danger when inspecting these particular cars?

 

Too much for a base. Does it have maintenance records? No deal unless they let you take it to your independent Infiniti-aware mechanic for pre-purchase inspection. They will know what to look for. That price is for a super clean, pristine, lower-mileage, no paint blemishes, no-wear interior, premium package G.

 

Aw...and here I was thinking I had found a deal lol

Part of the difficulty with it is that I'm actually being forced to look out of state (the nearest one was 116k miles at $9k) so finding an Infiniti-certified or savvy mechanic willing to go on a road trip with me might be a tall order haha

On a related note, is the 75k miles not a good state? Everything else I've seen is higher by a lot, or around the same area. Is finding something sub 50k miles like finding a unicorn or something?

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the miles, that's pretty good for an 07, but grossly overpriced. Keep searching around if you're not in too much of a hurry

 

Ah-ha...so service records trump mileage?

In that case, is this:

http://www.richmondbmwmidlothian.com...dc2ccd1417.htm

any better? 2007 Infiniti G35 Coupe for $15k with just under 60k miles. Definitely aiming to haggle, but thoughts based off of what you see in the CarFax?

 

Look at the last time the carfax shows service.....3/2012 at 32k, over 4 & 1/2 years ago. Perhaps PO did all his own service, but that's a red flag for me.

Price seems high but check kbb and nada guides to get more insight on what is fair in your area. If you get somewhere close to private party value from a dealership it's a decent deal.

Dealers will move on price, just figure out what range you want to pay/and what is reasonable based on kbb/nada . Do your homework on what monthly payments would be and never fall in to their trap of what kind of payment do you want....that is where people get roped into paying a higher price. Always steer the conversation back to overall price. Have I said price enough???? Rule of thumb is about $18 or $19 per $1k at 60 mos financed unless you have lower credit scores. Using a payment calculator is also a good idea.

Dealers charge more, but you have better financing options. Also try to deal with dealerships with a good reputation, not one operating out of an old gas station.

My .02

 

I guess patience will be the key concept here then. I haven't seen a single car in the area that has a decently comprehensive service record...starting to feel like I should look at the sedan as well T_T

 

No matter what car you buy bring it to a mechanic and have them check the following:

I've owned my 06 coupe, since I bought it brand new in 2006 (About 156K on the clock now). Here are things I've had to work on/replace over the years AFTER warranty expired. I had mostly electrical modules fixed under warranty IPDM, BCM, and ECU I believe.

Radiator - Leaks developing at plastic seam.
Alternator - Bearings went bad
Idler pulley - Bearings went bad. (Starting in 07 they removed this anyway and I have also, since it's a DIY mod)
Shocks
Rotors
1 front caliper
both rear calipers - They freeze up a lot
Lower control arm/transverse - Common problem where the bushings disintegrate
Water pump - Bearings went out about 125K miles. (I ended up replacing the water pump and timing chain. I skipped a few teeth trying to get the pump out). I had to take the front cover off and get it all lined back up. I think on 07+ this requires the actual cover to be removed, since they removed the small access ports in earlier models. Means a 500 dollar job doubles in price.
Timing chain/guides/tensioner - I did this because I was in there. But, usually not required, however, sometimes the guides break and it will cause the car to have startup noises until the oil pressure builds up.
Belts
Starter - I just replaced this a few days ago. Bendix shaft was sloppy, so I had intermittent start issues.
Wheel bearing
Valve cover gasket
A few hoses
Outer tie rod
Oil cooler gasket - Common failure on the car. It's a 10 dollar o-ring you can replace at an oil change.
Exhaust y-pipe

Have all the bushings inspected they are prone to failure.
Spark plugs pulled and checked for oil. The seals go bad in the valve covers and you can't replace them without drilling out or using some RTV hack (I tried this on mine). Both new valve covers can cost about 500-600 bucks not counting labor.
Fluids checked
Check the electrical things as well.
I think on the 07 they have a flaw with the o-rings in the rear timing chain cover. They fail and cause P011/P021 error, which is super expensive to probably fix.
Exhaust checked for leaks

 

Well, time to get chummy with a mechanic that knows Infiniti cars I guess haha

Do you guys think $2000 or so in GAP funds is enough? I'm not gonna assume that any of these used cars are gonna be in amazing shape, and off the bat, brake kits are gonna be at least $1.5k to $2k it seems...