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#16
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Well im offering it for any one who wants to try it to me its very hard to burn the clear if you pay attention... ive never done it but i do know some who have if some want it ill put it up
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#17
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I put up a wetsanding DIY a long time ago, I will re-post it if you guys think it's a good idea. For the most part it was well received but some guys thought it was a bad idea for the same reason redlude97 mentioned.
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http://gtaindetail.com |
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#18
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this is really excellent info.
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2005 G35 Coupe 6mt~ Spoiler ~ 19'' Rims ~ Navi ~ Bose ~ v1 + invisicord ~ 20% Tint ~ |
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#19
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What is a PC? Where can i get a good PC? how much should i spent?
Sooiseng
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2005 G35 Coupe 6mt~ Spoiler ~ 19'' Rims ~ Navi ~ Bose ~ v1 + invisicord ~ 20% Tint ~ |
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#20
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Here is where you can get one from:
http://www.detailedimage.com/store/i...hp?cPath=37_38 Info on Porter Cable: http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detai...-polisher.html |
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#21
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Just brought it with Tool Plus for $106.5 including shipping, thanks man!
Sooiseng
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2005 G35 Coupe 6mt~ Spoiler ~ 19'' Rims ~ Navi ~ Bose ~ v1 + invisicord ~ 20% Tint ~ |
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#22
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if you take your car to get detailed
will they polish and remove the swirl marks as well as apply a sealent or wax? i need to do alot of work on the paint inlcuding a few touch up spots in the near future I do not own a CP so I wont be able to do much but i could clay the car and apply a sealent....which is why i wanted to know what 4* UPP or Acrylic Jett are? thanks
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'03 G35 Coupe
Desert Platinum |
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#23
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Quote:
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#24
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Picus, great thread but I'm a still a newb so could you please clarify a few things for me....
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Also, another important fact I learned from your post was not too use too much shampoo, i've always used a ton (more expensive, but I figured more suds was better)...this is starting to explain why my wax was gone after a week (since I wash the car weekly). Sorry for the long post and so many questions but after realizing there are literally NO good detaileres in within a 3 hour drive of where I live, I've really got to step up my own detailing and want to make sure I thoroughly understand everything because I've always believed its the details that truly make the differce. Thanks!
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#25
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Great info! Could you please put together a section on engine detailing and some of the product you use? I would also like to hear about what the products you use to clean the interior of cars.
Again, thanks for the write-up(s) and I will be using your advice! |
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#26
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"Silver/White (metallic or non). Either 4* UPP or Acrylic Jett, period. Why? I don't know; both of these just look awesome on silver and white, so wet, so glossy - something about them just works on these two colors, IMO."
I found Acrylic Jett on google, but what is 4* UPP, i can't find it anywhere? Which of the two would be 1st choice on my car (bs in avatar) if it was yours? |
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#27
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awesome info. I can't wait to detail my car w/ all the stuff i've accumulated recently, except it just keeps going back to the body shop for more re-painting lol.
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"You become what you think about all day long." OB '05 6MT coupe |
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#28
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Quote:
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#29
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ok...so I am going to practice on some hoods that I will get off the junk yard...here is what I am going to do.
Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that anybody recommends? This will be using a PC! |
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#30
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That's a good process, remember paint varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, so what works on one may work differently on another. When you do use an orange pad you will want to follow up with a white pad pretty much regardless, since the orange pad will leave some pad marring behind.
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http://gtaindetail.com |
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| Tags |
| alloys, blue, clearkote, fmj, menzerna, metal, nattys, polish, removing, rmg, smooth, trouble |
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