No problem

This is a rotary buffer, different than a random orbital buffer like the Porter Cable 7424. Rotary buffers spin in one continuous direction at a high RPM, which has the potential to generate a lot of heat, leading to more risk to the paint. Rotary buffers are more likely to burn the paint, leave behind holograms, buffer trails and other things associated with rotary buffers. The description on your link suggests using 7" - 9" pads, which is way to large for a first time rotary user to use. With a rotary buffer, the larger the pad, the more dangerous it is since the outer edges are spinning the fastest. You could pick up a smaller backing plate for the buffer and test the waters with smaller pads, the two rotary backing plates we offer would fit the 5/8in-11 spindle. If you're dedicated to practicing on some scrap pieces or cars you don't mind potentially messing up, mastering a rotary buffer is much more effective than a PC. The problem is, it takes a good amount of practice and usually a few screw ups to get a solid grasp of the machine.

Hope this helps. If you have any other questions, let me know.

George

 

George . . . .

I need to ask for another recommendation please.
I posted a while back about some 'clouding' on the hood of an IP which SIP followed by 106ff wouldn't correct. Your thoughts along with some others indicated that the problem was with the paint itself and it turns out that was absolutely correct.

I've had the front end repainted with a double clear over the top. The shop buffed it out with an orbital and left some very minor swirls which I'm going to work on myself.

My question is, would you recommend 106fa for the job or maybe even Power Finish along with which pad. I'll be using a pc for the work. Thanks in advance.

 

If the clouding wasn't removed with SIP / 106FF, then using 106FA or Power Finish wouldn't make any more of a difference, unless of course it was the lack of number of applications that prevented you the first time from clearing up the clouding. SIP is more cutting than Power Finish and PO106FF / FA are nearly identical.

What sized pads are you using? Using smaller pads on a PC will offer more bite and can remove deeper imperfections. Consider trying the polishing with 4" pads.

You may need to try something more aggressive if SIP isn't cutting enough to rid the imperfections.

Talk soon,

George

 

Thanks George but let me try again.

I've had the front end repainted with a double clear over the top. The shop buffed it out with an orbital and left some very minor swirls which I'm going to work on myself.

My question is, would you recommend 106fa for the job of removing the minor swirls on new clearcoat or maybe even Power Finish along with which pad.

I can use either 6.5 or 4" pads

Would also like to ask if ONR can be blown dry then wiped ?

 

Sorry about that SCoupe, I read it as the shop caused the clouding because of what they did. Yes, you always want to start with the least aggressive option, which 106FF/FA is an excellent choice to begin with. If that wasn't doing the trick, try Power Finish or SIP next. When using the PC for correction, it seems 4" pads is the way to go. For glazes, sealants and liquid waxes, I prefer the larger pads because you can spread the product thinner, further, without reapplying more product. 106FA on white would be a great starting point, then I'd try Power Finish with white, then Power Finish on orange or SIP on orange as your next resort.

You certainly can use a blower with ONR, it'll help remove water from the seams, trim, etc. then just go and blot / wipe any remaining water and residue. I will mist a little QD on my towel to help ensure there's no residue remaining.

Sorry about the last response, hope this answers it better!

George

 

Thank you sir .... that was just right as usual

 

THANK YOU!!! i will look into it, i have a old camaro i can practice on, i believe i will do that. that only reason why i asked was it has speed control so instead of getting a PC i decided to give this one a try, looks like i need to master the speed control and feel for things, Never used a machine before always waxed by hand so lets see how it goes! THANKS AGAIN!!!

 

Glad it helped, keep us posted on how things turn out for you. Enjoy your weekend.



George

 

not sure if this has been asked before but any opinions on boat waxes? they're obviously designed for protecting from a much harsher environment but would there be any drawbacks from using a product intended for a fiberglass body? are you familiar with the paint process and materials of boats? i'm assuming just a wax applied by hand would be safe and offer superb water and contamination protection. thanks.

 

Boats / fiberglass bodies are often gel coated instead of clear coated. You can treat them exactly the same as if they were clear coated, clean, polish, protect. There would be no harm in trying a wax that is designed to work on a boat, I personally do not have any experience with it, but I'm sure it'd protect your paint. I'm not sure how durable the protection will be or if you may sacrifice some gloss from using it, but it's worth a shot. Many detailers who detail boats use the same products they'd use on a car, so I doubt there's much if any difference between them.

George

 

Quick question, I'm about to have my front bumper repainted, then I'm getting a 3M clear bra installed. Can you polish or do anything to the front bumper to make it match the paint clarity/wet look of a freshly detailed car?

Sean

 

Another detailing forum that I belong to love Collinite and say it has excellent durability and shine. One of the members there recently found out that the 845 version(Car) and the 915(I think that's the number, but it's the boat wax version) are EXACTLY the same, he talked to a guy who works in Collinite. However, the boat version, even though it is the exact same thing, is cheaper.

Just adding some info, I don't know how many boat vs. car waxes this applies to.

 

Sean, basically what you'll want to do is get the repaint, then let the new paint cure before putting on the clear bra (ask your body shop how long the cure process is, but it's typically 90 - 120 days if the piece isn't baked). Right before installing the clear bra, give it a good clay then polish to remove all contamination and imperfections that may be in the paint. This is your best chance of having the best match to a freshly detailed car under the clear bra.

Good info, I think this applies to a fair amount of products out there. Like I said, most detailers use the same products they would on a car as they would if they were detailing a boat. Sometimes manufacturers just slap a new label over an existing product and market it to boats or motorcycles, etc.

George

 

I just bought some Poorboys Polish with sealent and some P21S Carnuba Wax and do i do (in steps)
-Clay Bar
-Wax
-Polish With Sealent

??

And are there any special techniques you'd recommend? Im going to be doing this by hand btw.

Plan on buying a porter cable next spring.

 

here's more of a technical question for polishers. say you have some fine scratches visible only in the light (they don't catch your nail) and water spots, etc that a medium grade clay bar won't remove. polishers remove a fraction of the clear coat, correct? what is the frequency of polisher usage to prevent eventually taking off the clear coat. in other words, how thick is the clear coat, in mils or ten (or hundredth??) thousandths of an inch and how much does the average polisher remove? have you ever come across a vehicle for a detail and you tell them any more polishing and you're going to go into the paint?