Clutch = dead pedal halfway to the floor
#1
Clutch = dead pedal halfway to the floor
I'm assuming I got some air/moisture in the line (I can't see any leaks as of yet...), but am concerned that I may have a master/slave cylinder issue.
When my master/slave cylinder went out on my Z32, the pedal just went totally dead (0 resistance when depressed and 0 engaging/disengaging from the drivetrain). That was my only experience with screwed up cylinders, so I'm wondering if it sounds to you guys like it just needs to be flushed, or if it sounds more like I'm on my way to replacing the slave/master cylinders.
It's been a long time - any write ups on here about bleeding the clutch lines and/or replacing them (didn't see any stickys for that)? Also, any recommendations as far as
SS lines for the G?
Thanks!
When my master/slave cylinder went out on my Z32, the pedal just went totally dead (0 resistance when depressed and 0 engaging/disengaging from the drivetrain). That was my only experience with screwed up cylinders, so I'm wondering if it sounds to you guys like it just needs to be flushed, or if it sounds more like I'm on my way to replacing the slave/master cylinders.
It's been a long time - any write ups on here about bleeding the clutch lines and/or replacing them (didn't see any stickys for that)? Also, any recommendations as far as
SS lines for the G?
Thanks!
#2
I had a similar problem. If its happening only at high RPMs, its probably your clutch slave cylinder. My symptoms were that if I tried to shift at high RPMs, the clutch would stick to the floor or only come up a little bit, I'd have to put my foot behind it and pull it up. Swapping it out did the trick and was fairly simple, just time consuming. The only place I found to get 2 new compression washers for the clutch line was from the dealership ($0.50).It was like $50 for the OEM part and 1 hour or so to do the job (including the bleeding).
I replaced mine right before going to the track since it had very little effect on my daily drive. I also flushed the brakes at the same time using Motul 600 for both. It took 6hrs to do both, but the brakes were a vast majority of that time. Manually flushing the system SUCKS.
I really dont think you need to go stainless steel for any of the lines unless they're worn out, then you might as well upgrade them. My 9yr old stock brake and clutch lines performed just fine with my car zooming around a racetrack for the weekend. What made the biggest difference in braking were the pads. low dust ceramic pads just get too hot at the track and dont perform. I dropped in some semi-metallics and no braking issues. SS lines make sense if you're going to be running your car on a track very often, but otherwise I think they're overkill.
I replaced mine right before going to the track since it had very little effect on my daily drive. I also flushed the brakes at the same time using Motul 600 for both. It took 6hrs to do both, but the brakes were a vast majority of that time. Manually flushing the system SUCKS.
I really dont think you need to go stainless steel for any of the lines unless they're worn out, then you might as well upgrade them. My 9yr old stock brake and clutch lines performed just fine with my car zooming around a racetrack for the weekend. What made the biggest difference in braking were the pads. low dust ceramic pads just get too hot at the track and dont perform. I dropped in some semi-metallics and no braking issues. SS lines make sense if you're going to be running your car on a track very often, but otherwise I think they're overkill.
Last edited by tha_ape; 06-20-2015 at 07:41 AM.
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jbmw002
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
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09-10-2015 12:54 AM