DIY: Spark plug change
#151
03-19-2011, 11:21 PM
I changed my plugs yesterday. I also removed one of the hoses that is right above cylinder 1 as it made it easier to get the coilpack and plug out. I had no oil in the spark plug tubes thankfully as I was at 69,200 miles so no warranty work for me. I did have one problem while putting all the wire harness bolts into the brackets around the engine. The below picture is of the bracket next to cylinder 2. WHile it looks fine from the pic, the bolt is tight, but there is still quite a bit of play with the bracket.
Can someone confirm I have it on right and also, the top of the bolt is stamped with a '7'? I noticed that one of the bracket bolts had a '6' on it, but it was a mm or so longer so I figured it didn't go there. I should have paid more attention to the bracket bolts as I thought there were all the same.
Thanks for the help!
Can someone confirm I have it on right and also, the top of the bolt is stamped with a '7'? I noticed that one of the bracket bolts had a '6' on it, but it was a mm or so longer so I figured it didn't go there. I should have paid more attention to the bracket bolts as I thought there were all the same.
Thanks for the help!
1.) this is the grade of the fastner. Grade 8 are the hardest/most tensile strength fastners available.
2.) could just be a casting #
#152
03-24-2011, 08:49 PM
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#153
04-12-2011, 12:14 PM
I changed my plugs yesterday. I also removed one of the hoses that is right above cylinder 1 as it made it easier to get the coilpack and plug out. I had no oil in the spark plug tubes thankfully as I was at 69,200 miles so no warranty work for me. I did have one problem while putting all the wire harness bolts into the brackets around the engine. The below picture is of the bracket next to cylinder 2. WHile it looks fine from the pic, the bolt is tight, but there is still quite a bit of play with the bracket.
Can someone confirm I have it on right and also, the top of the bolt is stamped with a '7'? I noticed that one of the bracket bolts had a '6' on it, but it was a mm or so longer so I figured it didn't go there. I should have paid more attention to the bracket bolts as I thought there were all the same.
Thanks for the help!
Can someone confirm I have it on right and also, the top of the bolt is stamped with a '7'? I noticed that one of the bracket bolts had a '6' on it, but it was a mm or so longer so I figured it didn't go there. I should have paid more attention to the bracket bolts as I thought there were all the same.
Thanks for the help!
With the obstructed access and the soft aluminum hole, cross threading is too easily done.
Brian
#157
04-17-2011, 04:54 PM
Just used your instructions to do first spark plug change. I have a 2005 coupe with 80K miles, I think I could have waited a bit more but the cost and effort is not that great. I got the OEM plugs from Amazon about 8.30 /each and took me about 1 hr total to do the whole thing....I also put in a new Amsoil air filter while I was it...I change the air filter about every 20K miles.
Car feels great, not a huge performance increase but just seems to rev smoother
I still smile when I hear the sound of our engines it also helps I have a Stillen system in it.
Thanks for the great write-up...it really helped!
Car feels great, not a huge performance increase but just seems to rev smoother
I still smile when I hear the sound of our engines
it also helps I have a Stillen system in it.Thanks for the great write-up...it really helped!
#158
05-23-2011, 01:33 AM
Hi, I did everything but disconnect the battery when I changed my plugs, and now when i turn on the car the idle drops and the car don't go past 2k rpm when pressing the gas slowly. If I give it gas it starts to bogg out. So I can't drive it. Anyone have any ideas. And I'm Perty sure the plugs are in the correct cylinders.
#159
05-23-2011, 01:42 AM
If the bolt is tight and the bracket is loose it probably means you cross threaded the hole by installing the bolt crooked. I changed my plugs this past weekend and made that mistake on the bracket just behind the #6 coil pack.
With the obstructed access and the soft aluminum hole, cross threading is too easily done.
Brian
With the obstructed access and the soft aluminum hole, cross threading is too easily done.
Brian
#160
05-23-2011, 12:25 PM
Hi, I did everything but disconnect the battery when I changed my plugs, and now when i turn on the car the idle drops and the car don't go past 2k rpm when pressing the gas slowly. If I give it gas it starts to bogg out. So I can't drive it. Anyone have any ideas. And I'm Perty sure the plugs are in the correct cylinders.
#163
05-26-2011, 04:16 PM
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#164
07-18-2011, 04:32 PM
Great Job Bro . is it possible to tell me how do i have to know which side are which cylinders. I got this P0304 Engine Error which was for cylinder 4. but i have a trouble finding the cylinder 4 so i can change the plug.is this the best thing to do for P0304 error code or do i need to do something else
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
#165
07-18-2011, 04:41 PM
Great Job Bro . is it possible to tell me how do i have to know which side are which cylinders. I got this P0304 Engine Error which was for cylinder 4. but i have a trouble finding the cylinder 4 so i can change the plug.is this the best thing to do for P0304 error code or do i need to do something else
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
Driver side middle plug.
