You would do this because, as with all systems in our cars, there are compromises that the manufacturers have to make. These compromises are for cost and efficient manufacturing.

We can improve on our grounding scheme over the manufacturers, just the same as we can improve on the air intake, or the exhaust, or the stereo for that matter.

The manufacturers use engine materials to get the ground of electrical components back to the battery. Sometimes this means going from the mounting point of the component to the engine block, to a ground wire to the chasis and then through the chasis to the ground wire to the battery. Sometimes there are gaskets and changes from one type of metal to another, which all affect the ability of the ground.

Each of these transitions add noise to the signal that runs back to the ECU, just like when your stereo is not properly grounded and you hear the revs of the engine through your speakers. One company selling grounding kits actually measured up to a 20db drop in noise on the electrical system after installation.

The better the signal at the ECU, the more efficiently it can run your car. You will find that your car idles and runs smoother, your transmission will shift better, you may have increased gas mileage and slight increased horsepower, and other advantages.

When you add a ground wire kit, you ground each electrical component directly back to the battery ground.

I am not an electrical engineer, just a regular person that has been doing a lot of research on why this works. I work in the live sound industry, where grounding is of the utmost importance, and there are rules that we follow to make sure we are not spending time troubleshooting the same problems over and over.

This is the same idea with the grounding kits.

I have ordered a GroundingGear from Gordgee for my G35, but also plan on installing a DIY kit on my Altima as well, so am constantly looking for new references.

 

need lengths for 10 wire AT kit



also bump

 

Thanks your comments make a lot of sense. I was hoping you or someone on this forum can tell me if this grounding kit makes a difference throughout the entire rpm range. Based on the chart on Z-xtreme web site http://www.z-xtreme.com/products.html (scroll to bottom of page) it appears that the benefit of a grounding kit might only be seen at high 6000+ rpm. Or am I interpreting the chart incorrectly.

Many Thanks

 

Excellent question! In my first career as an electrical engineer (no longer do this) we were easily able to measure electromagnetic output decreases following proper or increased grounding. From my professional experience, the grounding kit may only have the effect of reducing static electricity or electromagnetic waves that interfere with the sound system quality (note, this is isolated to the sound system alone-- nothing else). The other improvements attributed to the kit are 99% likely the placebo effect. The empirical science behind the purported other improvements (better shifting, increased power, more stability in electrical system, etc.) is missing, all we have are opinions so far. There have been several other threads devoted to this subject with the result being confusion as to whether the kit has any real value. The last thread (impression sof SBD grounding wires) mostly concluded that it was a useless mod.

I think the grounding kit may be the G's version of the Tornado fuel saver gas devices (and the hemi head on some engines) which millions bought... millions swore by... thousands of mechanics smilingly installed (b/c they too believed the marketing) because it made sense.... and in the end (just like saggy pants on guys) after it was shown to be a useless add-on, millions continue to purchase?
Attached Images

 

Your interpretation is correct. The problem is that the research behind this device is shakey and internally done by the company marketing it... sort of like some drug companies that only submit positive data to the FDA for approval of a new drug. Read on in the website you found where they also state: "Money back guarantee - If you are dissatisfied with you new grounding kit for any reason, prior to install, return it for a prompt refund! No questions asked." Essentially, you can't return it if it doesn't work since you've installed it!!! This phrase suggest we can't hold them to the products actual performance.

Caveat emptor-- let the buyer beware!

 

your wrong, the battery is in the engine bay on 90% of all cars...

 

where on ECU or tranny did you ground? im really looking to pick up the 5AT shifting feel ive read about.

 

anyone know the lengths to use when making the 10 wire kit?

 

Well personally I'd much rather leave it to Betty to do my wires for me, I'm not the most competent person when it comes to wires

 

Is this good for 6mt? or better for autos?

 

+1. Just got done installing a set of there 8 gauge on my 05 sedan. Its only three wires and install takes about 15min. And YES, I could tell a difference in the way the car drive. The throttle response is much smoother and up shifts especially are noticeably quicker. Well worth the money IMO.

 

Techflex, it comes in green and you can use any wire color you want.

 

There IS such a thing as overkill. Why use a thicker gauge wire if it will not improve anything or gain you additional benefits? All you are doing is spending more money. It's like saying 1/0 wire is not overkill when doing this. It surely is. Any idea how much 1/0 wire costs? If you get something good, like Kicker Hyperflex (and for a used price), it's approx $3 per ft. 4 gauge wire is probably half that.

I guess the only benefit is that you can tell people you used 1/0 wire and they can be like "ZOMG! That thing is thick!" Just a waste of wire and money IMO. As someone mentioned before, the stock wiring is thin (14-16 awg). 8 gauge is probably sufficient, but 4 gauge doesnt hurt. Anything more and it would be pointless.

I'm not stating you mentioned going with bigger wires, but your statement does state "there is no such thing as overkill" hence this statement applies. Now, unless someone is running audio equipment that draws a lot of current, and I'm talking about a lot of current, then I can see it being somewhat useful, however, at the same time, I'd just swap the OEM battery out and possibly put in an HO alternator....and please, nobody say capacitor, because they don't do anything if your electrical is not up to par, it's just a drag on the electrical in that case. Bandaids don't heal flesh wounds

 

it is a good idea imo to go at least 4 gauge, especially if you plan on doing auto system upgrades. just putting in amps say for new front speakers and a sub can easily go past 1k wrms extra, and upgrading grounding may save you from having to upgrade batteries or getting a ho alternator

 

Just did this today as I picked up the kit used from a fellow member; the directions only mention 5 wires but the picture shows 7 wires; I guessed via the picture where #6 goes but I have no idea about #7....any help?