i have searched for this and found similar response but not an exact answer.

i have 04 g35 coupe 5a/t my car would crank but not start, but after a few tries it would then start. the SES light came on so i took it to autozone and had the codes read. it pulled a p0340 code and says cam position sensor circuit bank 1

in Autozones system it pulled up a sensor for the front and rear and they only had the front in stock so i bought it because the guy said it was most likely the front sensor.

1. whats the difference in front and rear? the front one cost more $ which isnt a big deal but i just wanna make sure i have the right part

2. Do i need to disconnect the battery before installing the sensor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

They are on the back of the cylinder heads and yes they are different for each side.

 

I got the same code. Do you know for sure wether its the front or the rear? I did a bit of research and found that there are 3 total and the one that seems to be the most likely to be replaced is the one on the passenger side. any input?

 

There are 2 cam sensors and 1 crank position sensor only.

 

I got the code P0340 (I think) and on the scanner it said bank 1 whick is considered the "rear" sensor but its the one on the passengerside

 

Just got done with the whole repair myself. My tech advised me to replace them both (since they are the same age) and @ $100 a pop, I figured it was worth it since I've had trouble free driving for the past 4 yrs.
Don't know about DIY, since I had a shop take care of it, but I would also advise to replace both especially if your better half is the primary driver (and she's usually toting the kids around). A little more security in my book.
GL!
rob g.

 

BTW the driver side cam sensor and crankshaft sensor are the same type of sensor and interchangeable. Autozone normally stocks them at much better price than stealership.

 

i wouldnt buy them from autozone... Im sure their price isnt much less than a nissan dealership, plus I wouldnt run anything but oem sensors. just my opinion.

I took care of this on friday for my car, took me like 2 mins to take it off and it took a bit longer to put it on. I couldnt find the screw hole

 

search is your friend. i wrote a DIY on this about a year ago many other members have used it and said it was great.

 

just searched took 3 seconds

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...n-sensors.html

 

i used your diy. well, half of it since i only needed to do the pass side (bank 1)
Thanks for your contribution.

 

This is a PIA. What should be simple and easy is not for me.
I have an Acura 1997 CL and changed the Idle Air Control Valve with no problem today. yet for the last two days, cant get the dang wiring harness off the sensors. I am replacing both bank 1 and bank2. Should have only done bank1, but autozone gave me the wrong part. And... to someone's point on here, I am going to take the Autozone parts and go OEM. However, I cant do much of anything untill I can get the blasted harness connector to come off the sensor. My acura has a ton of these and they are no problem to push and release. Yet when I do it with the Nissan connectors for the cam shaft sensors they will not budge. I apologize if I sound short in my message but this has been a real pain and I am frustrated, I just want to replace the sensors and get on with things. I wish I had the ease that everyone else seems to have with replacing these. Thanks to everyone for their contributions with this. I wouldnt be this far if it wasnt for this forum.
P.S. I am wondering if the reason why the connectors seemed seized is because of the cold... cold causes plastic to contract... where as heat causes plastic/or an object to expand... at least that's what I learned in Chemistry in high school... lol I am pressing on the tongue of the connector when pulling back.

 

I think you need to push the tab on the green connector towards the sensor, and not press the tab down like you do with all of the other connectors on the car. It's a different type of connector, if you push down on it too hard it will break. It slides forward and pushes the connector out... makes a snapping noise when it comes off.

I haven't seen these connectors in awhile, but I'm pretty sure it's the one I'm thinking about.