Burning oil?
#1
So my buddy has an 06 coupe 6MT rev up and his oil is just going somewhere so fast and we don't really know where it's going.. No leaks anywhere that we can see and the only other thing I can think of is that it's burning it, but can't see any smoke coming out of the exhaust and no smell of burning oil. Seems like he has to refill the oil every 1500 miles.... Possibly head gasket?
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#9
Sorry to hear that ma , nice been tryi got indentured if my g35 may have that problem as well, I just changed my oil for the first time and am now actively monitoring it to make figure it out, when I changed the oil, it didn't seem like it drained much so we will see.
My options, if it has this issue, is to rebuild the engine with a kit from z1performance that replaces all the internals and gaskets, I will be going up to 11.1 compression pistons for a nice NA car, or source a replacement engine and swap it out, I feel that I'd rather rebuild though because then I would literally have a brand new engine that I knew what it was out through and I could try to live my NA goal and hit 300 who if I'm lucky, might be fun!
Good luck to your buddy but the consumption issue is a well documented problem, he should start seeking alternatives soon. Not sure how your laws apply, but here in MI you can sell someone a car with any problem and you will not be able to use or retaliate, not sure how it is with other states. Have him visit an infiniti dealer to see of the previous owner had the car diagnosed, may help the cause!
My options, if it has this issue, is to rebuild the engine with a kit from z1performance that replaces all the internals and gaskets, I will be going up to 11.1 compression pistons for a nice NA car, or source a replacement engine and swap it out, I feel that I'd rather rebuild though because then I would literally have a brand new engine that I knew what it was out through and I could try to live my NA goal and hit 300 who if I'm lucky, might be fun!
Good luck to your buddy but the consumption issue is a well documented problem, he should start seeking alternatives soon. Not sure how your laws apply, but here in MI you can sell someone a car with any problem and you will not be able to use or retaliate, not sure how it is with other states. Have him visit an infiniti dealer to see of the previous owner had the car diagnosed, may help the cause!
#10
Yeah we were talking about an engine swap for his one of our buddies is selling an r32 engine for $2000 didn't know if it was possible. But I think I'm gonna talk to him and see if we can get the catch can alternative and if that doesn't work... Honesty I'd just go with a swap that way, like you said, you know what's been done to it and how it's been treated.
On a side note... With the z1 internal replacements that's good for FI as well? Or just NA?
On a side note... With the z1 internal replacements that's good for FI as well? Or just NA?
#11
Z1 internals (assuming the rebuild kit) will work just fine for FI or NA. They offer 8.8:1 compression for FI (turbo really, no need to go that low on SC) or 11:1 on NA, so you have your choice either way.
I've been in the same boat with oil consumption for a bit over a year now, mine popped up around 86k (05 6MT coupe / rev-up). There are a couple things you can do in the meantime that may help. At least it has slowed down the OC for my engine, buying me time to rebuild a spare block. First thing you want to do is check (and probably replace, it's very cheap) the PCV on the pass. side valve cover. It's very likely blocked / clogged and not functioning properly. If I remember right it's like a $10-12 part at Autozone. Once you figure out whether it's bad, or replace it, you will still be recirculating oil vapors back into the intake, this is done for emmissions control but isn't helping your cause any. I would recommend getting a vented catch can and bypassing the intake recirc all together. If you run from the PCV to the vented can and then out to the back side of the driver's valve cover you eliminate the intake track getting recycled vapors. This won't do anything for oil already stuck on the cylinder walls (if your issue is due to the bad rings) but it will prevent more burning off and further gumming up the works. After you've re-routed that line to the can you just need to plug the intake port (that had previously run from the driver's side valve cover) and the intake plenum (that had run from the PCV). This won't completely eliminate your problem, but it should slow down the amount being passed through.
If I didn't already mention it, or if you haven't run across it already, the two primary causes of the OC seem to be a bad PCV or actual blow-by from bad rings. Not much you can do about the rings without a full tear down, but the PCV issues are greatly reduced with the catch can setup I mentioned above and a new PCV. I've been running the above for about a year now and am still losing some oil (about half of it is ending up in the can, just have to dump it every time you do an oil change and about 1500 miles afterwards) so I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with bad rings as well. But I'm just trying to extend the life of this engine to buy time for the rebuild, and have been good so far.
Lastly, and this is controversial but I'll throw it out anyway, I've had good results from Mobil 1 0w/40. Your mileage may vary, but it's done well for me lately.
I've been in the same boat with oil consumption for a bit over a year now, mine popped up around 86k (05 6MT coupe / rev-up). There are a couple things you can do in the meantime that may help. At least it has slowed down the OC for my engine, buying me time to rebuild a spare block. First thing you want to do is check (and probably replace, it's very cheap) the PCV on the pass. side valve cover. It's very likely blocked / clogged and not functioning properly. If I remember right it's like a $10-12 part at Autozone. Once you figure out whether it's bad, or replace it, you will still be recirculating oil vapors back into the intake, this is done for emmissions control but isn't helping your cause any. I would recommend getting a vented catch can and bypassing the intake recirc all together. If you run from the PCV to the vented can and then out to the back side of the driver's valve cover you eliminate the intake track getting recycled vapors. This won't do anything for oil already stuck on the cylinder walls (if your issue is due to the bad rings) but it will prevent more burning off and further gumming up the works. After you've re-routed that line to the can you just need to plug the intake port (that had previously run from the driver's side valve cover) and the intake plenum (that had run from the PCV). This won't completely eliminate your problem, but it should slow down the amount being passed through.
If I didn't already mention it, or if you haven't run across it already, the two primary causes of the OC seem to be a bad PCV or actual blow-by from bad rings. Not much you can do about the rings without a full tear down, but the PCV issues are greatly reduced with the catch can setup I mentioned above and a new PCV. I've been running the above for about a year now and am still losing some oil (about half of it is ending up in the can, just have to dump it every time you do an oil change and about 1500 miles afterwards) so I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with bad rings as well. But I'm just trying to extend the life of this engine to buy time for the rebuild, and have been good so far.
Lastly, and this is controversial but I'll throw it out anyway, I've had good results from Mobil 1 0w/40. Your mileage may vary, but it's done well for me lately.
#12
#13
Z1 internals (assuming the rebuild kit) will work just fine for FI or NA. They offer 8.8:1 compression for FI (turbo really, no need to go that low on SC) or 11:1 on NA, so you have your choice either way. I've been in the same boat with oil consumption for a bit over a year now, mine popped up around 86k (05 6MT coupe / rev-up). There are a couple things you can do in the meantime that may help. At least it has slowed down the OC for my engine, buying me time to rebuild a spare block. First thing you want to do is check (and probably replace, it's very cheap) the PCV on the pass. side valve cover. It's very likely blocked / clogged and not functioning properly. If I remember right it's like a $10-12 part at Autozone. Once you figure out whether it's bad, or replace it, you will still be recirculating oil vapors back into the intake, this is done for emmissions control but isn't helping your cause any. I would recommend getting a vented catch can and bypassing the intake recirc all together. If you run from the PCV to the vented can and then out to the back side of the driver's valve cover you eliminate the intake track getting recycled vapors. This won't do anything for oil already stuck on the cylinder walls (if your issue is due to the bad rings) but it will prevent more burning off and further gumming up the works. After you've re-routed that line to the can you just need to plug the intake port (that had previously run from the driver's side valve cover) and the intake plenum (that had run from the PCV). This won't completely eliminate your problem, but it should slow down the amount being passed through. If I didn't already mention it, or if you haven't run across it already, the two primary causes of the OC seem to be a bad PCV or actual blow-by from bad rings. Not much you can do about the rings without a full tear down, but the PCV issues are greatly reduced with the catch can setup I mentioned above and a new PCV. I've been running the above for about a year now and am still losing some oil (about half of it is ending up in the can, just have to dump it every time you do an oil change and about 1500 miles afterwards) so I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with bad rings as well. But I'm just trying to extend the life of this engine to buy time for the rebuild, and have been good so far. Lastly, and this is controversial but I'll throw it out anyway, I've had good results from Mobil 1 0w/40. Your mileage may vary, but it's done well for me lately.
But once I get back from leave and I'm with my boy we will start trying to get this problem solved. And when you were explaining the catch can, the hose going into the intake was the one you were talking about correct? On the driver side?
#14
Correct on the hose. In stock form you've got a hose going from the driver's side valve cover to the underside of the intake tube itself (between the airbox/MAF and Throttle Body). You want to plug the intake's input port for that hose and run a new one from the catch can to the valve cover, deleting that line. I hope that makes sense, I'm still working on coffee lol.
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