So i've had my 08 G35S for about 3 years now... She has 115700 miles on her now and at around 95k the clutch went out. I thought 95k was way too soon but maybe the previous owner or people test driving before I bought the car abused the hell out of her, whatever.

Anyways.. Last summer I opted for the JWT clutch/flywheel combo kit from this website after a great deal of research since it would save me over $1500 doing OEM replacement... Or so I thought.

It took about 5 months before the slave cylinder went out, I'm thinking oh damn I knew I should have just replaced it when I had the clutch/flywheel done. Over $700 later I have a new OEM Slave.
Fastforward 4-5months and bam slave cylinder goes out again. Now a big red flag has popped up in my mind but at this point I'm willing to think it was somehow a defective part... I don't know I'm not a mechanic. Over $700 later another new OEM Slave installed, contacted dealership to have them reimburse me for defective part but I had to eat the labor cost.

Fastforward 3 months and WOULDN'T YOU KNOW IT, the master goes out. Master is replaced BUT in order to get everything to engage the rubber stopper behind the clutch pedal had to be moved to the side, but hey $550 later shes running again and now its not difficult to go into 1st and 2nd gear anymore like it was the previous 2-3 weeks leading up to masters failure, Well alright...cool looks like the entire system has been replaced and ill have no more issues... What shitty luck but it's all over now.

Now after my 4th trip to the shop I of course had a long talk with my mechanic and to sum it up he said its ridiculious that the clutch pedal has to be all the way to the floor to engage/disengage...he thinks this JWT set up has to be causing the failures some how and if it were his car he would at least switch to an OEM flywheel, thinks its possible the JWT flywheel wasn't machined properly.

ONE WEEK LATER, today August 16th 2015...the pedal gets very weak at a stop light, im thinking there's no god damn way....next stoplight shes stuck to the floor. Pull her up and try to engage or pump, nada. Verify rubber stopper still off to side and not back in place...yep still off to side. Pushed pedal all the way to floor and forced her into 1st with some feathering while pedal is still on the floor, pull up pedal with foot and repeat process with great difficulty until reaching shop.

Here I sit in the parking lot. 5th time clutch has gone out in a year. Over $3000 and everything replaced later she sits with another issue.

For all of you guys with mechanical knowledge or who have experienced something similiar please feel free to comment on what you think is wrong or whatever... I dont know what to do, who to contact and demand reimbursement for all or part of my
Costs if anyone at all.... Replace everything oem and walk away??? I have no more money to fix this car.

This car does not get beat on or raced and with the exception of a wheel bearing she hasnt had any other issues other than standard maintence on brakes/tires/battery/oil changes. It's all clutch issues, never ending.

 

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Sorry to hear about this…maybe contact JWT? Or possibly get an RJM adjustable clutch pedal..? No clue what happened, but that sucks.

Makes me glad I ponied up for the OEM clutch and flywheel...

 

On the 2007-2008 Sedans you need to upgrade the CSC (slave cylinder)
The stock plastic slave cannot handle the loads of an aftermarket clutch for long.

We make a HD replacement slave for the 07-08 G35S, 07-08 350Z, 09-15 370Z and G37, They all share the same hydraulics.

Not sure where you bought your clutch from but they should have warned you if you talked to them about the stock slave and the need to upgrade.

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...SC-zsp2006.htm

 

Okay so I bought a Infiniti g35 2006 manual a year ago with 100,000 miles on it. The car was fine for a year or so then I started having revving problems along with my cluch going to the floor and my car slipping gears. So just like you I replaced the slave and master cylinder. Nothing fixed the problem. I tried plugging in my obd but no check engine light or anything. It got to the point my car wouldn't go more then 5 mph. So I took it to Japanese specialist shop to replace the cluch and the fly wheel the car ran fine for 10 minutes, but when you stopped it would shut off. Now this whole time I HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS! No body could figure it out. When I plugged in a scan tool it would show up as my car wasnt a car at all. So I had to have another specialist come in and try to figure it out. Come to find out. The car dealer ship (The sharpest Rides) I bought the vehicle from unplugged my obd sensor from my ECU! The Ecu was missing a bolt along with it goes to a 2005 Infiniti g35 manual sedan.... not a 2006 Infiniti g 35 coupe manual. I would suggest you look at everything in your car if its continuously doing the same thing. These cars are super sensitive and a lot of people like to ***** rig ****.

 

2004 4 door... (i have 3 kids) clutch going out for sure.... Can I replace with LUK Clutch kit.... will it work without replacing the flywheel? trying to do it on a budget.

 

I've heard it can be done with the right equipment (which most don't have): https://forums.nicoclub.com/resurfac...l-t598632.html

You may be able to get by with scuffing up the surface assuming you didn't burn up the current clutch. But it is really best to replace the flywheel. You can do with a steel flywheel that's much less expensive and not so light you get clutch chatter.

 

The biggest issue you'll have with reusing the stock DMFW is those springs to hold the counterweight are COMPLETELY SHOT by the time the stock clutch is done. It's probably just banging up against the stoppers every time you give it throttle or let off the throttle.

To answer the question, yes it can be done as an emergency fix if you cannot afford a replacement flywheel. It's going to cause considerable premature wear on the new friction disc as the grooves on the flywheel eat into it, probably last 75k miles compared to 125k. But yes it can technically be done.

Basically the same thing as putting new brake pads on old rotors, it CAN be done but strongly recommended not to.

Just be extra extra careful of the clutch brake in, no hard launches AT ALL, just baby it for the first 100 miles or you're going to make severe hot spots due to less surface area from an uneven surface on the flywheel.