I've done 2 things. 1/ Checked the ESM (section EC-68) for confirmation of this procedure, and 2/ done the procedure on my G.
I tried several times to do this without success b4 succeeding on about the 4th try.
-------------turned ign. to on & waited (only) 3 seconds- <font color=red>just 'on', not started! </font color=red>
--------------floored and released gas/p 5 times within 5 secs.
--------------waited 7 secs then floored gas/p for 10 secs at which time the check engine light blinks
------------- release gas/p
------------- floor and hold gas/p for 10 secs.
-------------your done.
<font color=red>seems timing is very important on this</font color=red>

I've done the procedure but have no idea if it's had the desired effect yet. Won't know that 'till later today.
If successful, this looks like any easy way to erase the ECU's memory. I'll post my impressions later. Would someone else try it too?


<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

do you do this while the car is on? or just when key is in ignition and turned foward. You also said hold pedal down for 10 seconds, thats alot of red lining? That cant be good for the car? ne-who, thanks for the post man im gunna try it when u respond

 

I'm pretty sure the steps are with the key in the "on" position but not running.

 

Dude, no don't start the engine, just turn key to 'on' position so the dash lights up.
The tough part of this is after the initial 3 second wait, you've got to floor the g/p 5 times in 5 seconds. Then wait 7 seconds b4 flooring and holding the g/p for 10 seconds. This is when the MIL should start blinking.
At that point you release the g/p, then push and hold it for another 10 seconds to clear the memory.

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

Is this for the Sedan only? Do have to have an auto? I tried this several times on my 6MT. Couldn't get it to work. Grrrr....

-Jason
Laser Red '03 6MT

 

As far as I know bro, it's for both Sedan and Coupe, Auto and stick.
Like I said, it's a bit fussy to get it to work, but stick with it.Try with the clutch in as if you're starting it. Then just turn the ign. to the on position and go from there.
The hard part is after you've waited the initial 3 seconds, is to push the g/p fully to the floor and off again 5 times in 5 seconds.
The timing is all important on this procedure and has to be done accurately.
After the 5 in 5, wait 7 secs b4 pushing g/p down again and holding it there. After 10 secs of holding it there the check engine should blink. Then off the gas, then down for 10 to clear the memory.
Give her another try bro. Took me a few too...........G/L

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

There's some debate in the original freshalloy thread about whether this actually resets the entire ECU or just erases diagnostic test data, and the ones claiming the latter sure sound like they know what they're talking about.

Jeff Kohn
H-Town, TX
2003.5 Automatic Sedan, Desert Platinum/Willow, Premium, Nav, Tint

 

I've read the discussions . What we need is for some to actually do the procedure and see what the 'butt dyno' says
Have you tried it?

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

I originally posted the thread on FA, got it from my350z. Don't know if just clears diagnostics or the the adaptive part of the ECU- suspect the latter. Tried it on my car, just can't say if it made a great change since it was running strong anyway.Takes good foot timing and patience.

 

Yeh, I've tried it a few times on my Coupe. Can do the test easily now but, like you, I'm not sure it has the desired effect.
We're going to have to wait for some more feedback from peeps that can get thru this.
Without waiting for weeks between 'resets' it's hard to notice anything.
BTW, here's another possible procedure by 'davel', to reset the ECU. See what you think of this:
ECU Reset

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

This is probably the same procedure used to show diagnostic trouble codes. I know on all (well, most anyway) Nissan's, you do some little steps like mentions, and the Check Engine light will flash out your problem codes. If anyone gets the proper procedure for this, please post it, or let us know if the steps mentioned above will definately serve dianostic checking as well.

 

I can tell when the ECU is not reset by the long shift into 5th. When reset the shifting is immediate, otherwise after a week or 10 days, the shifts are long are longer, especially the final gear..note i have the 7 wire kit.

Nothing changed when i did this reset - got it first try. Nada. Had to do the old 12 hour before heading to lke this weekend...;-(

 

That makes sense about 5th gear shifting. It may be a good measuring stick.
So you feel no improvement in shifting after doing this procedure? I've done it twice and feel the same way. But it's so hard to tell.
Maybe there's no substitute for the 12 hr disconnect.
Have you tried both methods?

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

If you guys can't tell any difference, maybe this procedure only erases any stored trouble codes. Just a thought.

 

I got no difference from this method...and yes i do reset the ecu every 2 weeks or so and am familiar enough with changes to determine whether i thought it worked. No luck for easy reset yet...i think a flip switch on dash would work..