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#1
07-11-2008, 05:23 PM
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Some Bulit motor questions
I started sourcing some parts for my motor build, I would like to get some more opinions b4 I start purchasing anything.
My Final Hp goal is 500 ( this is a non rev up motor with a greddy twin turbo kit, 3in down pipes, fuel retun system, greddy boost controller, walbro 255) PISTONS http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=264&page=1 Rods Eagle rods http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=249&page=1 Arp studs rev up oil pump factory bearings and gaskets? I just started making a list so please tell me what you are using, and why, or if what I have started to pick out is not ideal and why. Thanks Danny
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SFLG35 Club
Dm2 * Mad Mods Paint
 
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#2
07-11-2008, 06:45 PM
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stay away from EAGLE RODS spend the extra $500 on some BC's or something to be safe and you dont need the ARP studs, stock studs are much better you dont have to keep torquing them
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#3
07-11-2008, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
not sure where u got you source but eagle H beam rods are just as strong as the bigger companys for a fraction less and upgrading to arp 1/2" studs are preferred.
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#4
07-11-2008, 07:35 PM
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Why not just look at the stage 1,2 or 3 that Forge performance or GTM sell and see what they use. They have a comprehensive list of what they use in each of their stages.
It may help save you time.
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2004.5 5AT. Tons of minor mods which make me go fast 
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#5
07-11-2008, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
 I researched the rod issue very thoroughly before proceeding with my build. I spoke with multiple engine builders and searched the Internet for hours. Although Eagle rods do not enjoy the same name recognition as Carillo or Pauter rods, I found no credible evidence of any quality issues with them. Moreover, Eagle rods were recommended for my build both by Kyle at Import Parts Pro, who built my short block, and Roger at Japtrix, who is doing the rest of the work and the tuning.
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#6
07-11-2008, 08:01 PM
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Ive seen numerous Eagle rods turn to horse shoes with low boost supra motors. I too wanted to go with Eagle to save some money but my shop wouldnt touch the car if I bought Eagles.
The ARP studs are not needed even with 800+ rwhp... Ask Mark Brent, or Scot Bush, and Blast Motoring. More people have had lift issues with aftermarket studs then those without. 
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#7
07-11-2008, 08:20 PM
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I also could not find anything to discredit the egale rods a y thoughts about the he studs on the de block
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SFLG35 Club
Dm2 * Mad Mods Paint
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#8
07-11-2008, 08:25 PM
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Why are you trying to biuld on budget anyway? Talking about saving some extra cash. In the end $500 or $1000 isn't that much of a difference. If you don't have that to spare, you should stop and be patient until you do. You will always run into problems before, during, or after the biuld that will end up costing the above amounts if not more. If you don't... it's only a matter of time.
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SenBou.com| Meguiars : Toyo : Valvoline : DEFI : 360*Forged : SGP Racing : Dip-Tech.net : Performance Audio : JC Autobody : rockstar69.com
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#9
07-11-2008, 08:32 PM
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Get the whole rebuild kit, you'll need the new rear main seal and etc, and it comes with a tube of Nissan engine assembly stuff.
Alot of people swear by the HKS headgasket, but I think cometic would be fine. As for the headbolts, get at least the normal ARP studs, its pretty common sense stud vs bolt. L19's aren't really necessary (I think they called for 90ft/lbs vs the normal ARP at 60ft/lbs, I tightened mine to almost 90 anyways) and the oversized ones are overkill imo. People that have lifted heads using aftermarket studs is because they are the ones that are pushing it..... there's a good chance you'd throw a rod before you blew a hg with a stocker. Call Kyle about the bearings, you'll have to have your block and crank sitting right there so you can read him the sizes. I think his prices are one of the best... And.... show me a case where Eagle rods have been the cause of failure on the VQ.
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#10
07-11-2008, 08:44 PM
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Here is a good read. Nevermind the banter that starts. http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363066
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#11
07-11-2008, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
I went with Import Parts Pro Stage 1 short block, which is here: http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html It includes Eagle/SCAT H Beam rods and Wiseco pistons. A stage 2 short block is available which includes either Carillo or Pauter rods and either CP or Arias extreme pisions: http://www.importpartspro.com/st2blon.html I told Kyle at Import Parts Pro that I wanted more than 600 RWHP, but that I would not exceed 650 RWHP. I then asked him if this were his motor and his money, what would he buy. His recommendation was the Stage 1 motor with the optional Ceramic/Moly piston coating and the ARP studs. Japtrix recommended the exact same rods and pistons. Kyle has been building VQ engines for over 10 years, and has done a shiat load of them. He indicated to me that he has used the Eagle/SCAT H Beam rods in builds up to 850 RWHP and has not had any problems with these rods. Japtrix has been building/tuning the VQ35 motors for over 5 years, and they also have not seen any problems with the Eagle rods. zazaracing says he has seen problems with Eagle rods in Supra motors, but you're not building a Supra, you're building a VQ35. When I researched it, I found no one who has had problems with Eagle rods in VQ motors.
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#12
07-11-2008, 09:04 PM
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Here is another I would strongly recommend you read through. http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350550 It lists things that people regret doing with their builds. This way, you can learn from their experience. Interestingly, look at Alberto's post on the first page. Here is what he said: "*Wish I had "just" done Eagle rods, Pauters are nicer but for my power levels Eagles would have been more than fine and I could have saved $600" 
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#13
07-11-2008, 09:29 PM
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do what you feel is right bro...but make sure you have some extra cash incase you need it. I too tried to build on a budget and still ended up $1500 over what I was planning on spending. something always comes up so instead of down time trying to collect the change under the couch just plan ahead
Once youre in the motor its better to change what you can then have to go back in there. IE valve seals, thermostat just the little things but it adds up real quick. Good luck on your build
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#14
07-11-2008, 11:16 PM
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first off just to clear it up I'm in no hurry, I'm only asking I have them money for more expensive parts but why waste money on item that will be sting enough for my power goals
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Dm2 * Mad Mods Paint
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#15
07-12-2008, 01:08 AM
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PLEASE share with us who this builder is that refuses to use the Eagle Rods??? I am WAY up there in whp running on eagle rods running over 19psi....so I guess that Forged Performance forgot to tell me that Eagle rod are no good.  You all kill me with the kind of bad info you give  Quote:
OP...here is some advise for you....do a search over in my350z....you can also look at my list, just click on my cardomain page in my sig and if you have any questions...feel fre to PM me. You are going for 500+....this is not where you should be looking for help....the Eagle comment should be your first hint  Better yet...call Sharif at FP and tell him XKR sent you...he will spend whatever time on the phone it takes to help you figure out what you need.Good luck.
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Built & Tuned my Forged Performance 7XX rwhp 7XX tq 850BB Turbo www.cardomain.com/ride/808731 Quote:
Last edited by XKR : 07-12-2008 at 01:42 AM.
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