Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

Engine rebuild....forged internals?

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  #16  
Old 12-18-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by nyqueenz
Keep in mind once you decide to go build, that the block itself will need to be worked. You just dont slap new parts onto it and call it a day.

Also you're going to spend money replacing gaskets, seals, timing parts and most of all bearings.. defiantly do your research before taking on a huge project like this.
what work would the block need besides cleaning/inspection/hone?
 
  #17  
Old 12-18-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by IT_SS
what work would the block need besides cleaning/inspection/hone?
That's the work that I was suggesting.. also disassembling and reassembling cost. Just to give you an idea I spent close to 400-450 on OEM timing chains, engine gasket kit and timing chain tensioners. That’s not all but you get an idea..little things like that stuff cost.

The most important item you missed on your list is a fuel system and engine management.

also what is the OP plan on doing with the heads?
 
  #18  
Old 12-18-2011, 11:42 PM
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If you are doing it i would bore it 0.020 over instead of just honing that is kind of 1/2 azzed. If your not cutting corners I would re deck the block and plane the heads if shooting for 700whp do it right.

By the time you

Re-deck the block
plane the heads
bore and hone
balance the rotating assembly
rev-up oil pump
new gaskets
aftermarket head gaskets
ARP head studs
rods
pistons
bearings

add to that cams and springs

you might as well get one from Hal at Dynosity he builds them all day everyday and it would likely save you some money/head ache in the long run. For the $3690 he charges for a long block it would be hard to build one yourself for that my machine work and assembly was close to $2,500. Timing it is a b1tch to so i would get him to have it ready to drop in...if I were to do it again i would buy a long block from a reputable shop. If you dont have anything yet get a huge package with ECU, turbo system, fuel system and engine package, clutch ect ect all from the same place they should be able to cut you a good deal.
 

Last edited by Sylvan lake V35; 12-18-2011 at 11:53 PM.
  #19  
Old 12-19-2011, 12:20 AM
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This Hal's car i would like to buy the same engine he runs

not sure why I cant embed these but it is pissing me off



http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...eature=related



http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=WTY3CDVv-DE
 

Last edited by Sylvan lake V35; 12-19-2011 at 12:34 AM.
  #20  
Old 12-19-2011, 01:48 AM
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Hal is a pretty kool guy, He came thru for me with the Haltech when i needed a new EMS..

Props
 
  #21  
Old 12-19-2011, 05:08 AM
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i have some questions, are you going to go turbo because in the first post you said the car is supercharged. then you say your not trying to go over 450whp. what are your goals out of that car? why not buy a good used stock G then do all this???
 
  #22  
Old 12-19-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tilmonr
i have some questions, are you going to go turbo because in the first post you said the car is supercharged. then you say your not trying to go over 450whp. what are your goals out of that car? why not buy a good used stock G then do all this???
The guy that bumped the year and half old thread never said he planed on supercharging he said he wants 6-700hp so that would indicate turbo charging.

Thats why people need to figure out how to start new threads because it becomes confusing who is asking what


While it is annoying n00bs starting new threads every day asking what is more reliable a SC or TT or hays anyone tried this ebay turbo kit or i want 800whp for $10,000 dreamer builds IT_SS has legit questions so his own thread would have been appropriate in this case.
 
  #23  
Old 12-19-2011, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sylvan lake V35
The guy that bumped the year and half old thread never said he planed on supercharging he said he wants 6-700hp so that would indicate turbo charging.

Thats why people need to figure out how to start new threads because it becomes confusing who is asking what


While it is annoying n00bs starting new threads every day asking what is more reliable a SC or TT or hays anyone tried this ebay turbo kit or i want 800whp for $10,000 dreamer builds IT_SS has legit questions so his own thread would have been appropriate in this case.
i never wanna see an ebay turbo question again in here
 
  #24  
Old 12-20-2011, 07:15 PM
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lol, I'll start a new thread, sorry fellas, I fear I may have stired the hornets nest, this thread came up during a search, didnt realize it was old ^_^
 
  #25  
Old 08-01-2016, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by faiz23
Engine packages are customizable to match your goals. Here are two samples of common configurations:

Stage 1 Short Block packages start at $2765 and include CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Bearings, machining, align hone, balance, blueprint and pro assembly!

Stage 1 Long Block packages start at $3690 and include the Stage1 Short Block, ARP L19 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, Cometic Head Gaskets, Mill & Clean Heads and assembly.


http://www.importpartspro.com/niin1.html



http://my350z.com/forum/engine/51070...ur-engine.html

http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html


http://my350z.com/forum/engine/47208...eeds-here.html

i wish it was still this pricing its has gone up a few hundred
 
  #26  
Old 12-17-2016, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by _Ghost_G35
i wish it was still this pricing its has gone up a few hundred
I imagine it would he posted that 5years ago....
 
  #27  
Old 05-03-2020, 08:01 PM
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2003 g35 sedan
BuIlding a G35 Motor

Hey guys, sorry if this has been asked before, I picked up an 03 G35 Sedan, and I want to build the motor, im looking at these short block stage 1 kits, which handle the power I want in it (around 600-650whp) so, should I get a short block or long block kit? Whats the difference? And any recommendations to go turbo or sc route? Any help would be very much appreciated.... Thank you!
 
  #28  
Old 05-03-2020, 11:21 PM
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Short block = no heads, long block = engine block with heads.

Turbo or SC just depends on where/how you want to make power, SC is typically more "reliable" because of the linear power but you're going to be investing quite a bit to break the 450whp mark. If you are seriously planning on 600whp then you definitely want to start shopping turbo's.

If you want to pull 600whp on pump gas you're probably going to need a 76mm turbo but they're laggy, it's not going to be a lot of fun driving that around town, something like a single 67 will be 60whp less but a LOT more driveable and you can add meth later to cool things down and make more power.

TT requires a lot more work but you get away with smaller turbos and thus less lag.

Anything over 600whp for extended duration you're probably going to need to sleeve the block. My recommendation is shoot for something a LOT more reasonable like 450whp, build the engine to handle the 600 if you want but go easy on it until you have all the bugs worked out of the turbo kit because there WILL be bugs and it's easier to squash them before you crank up the boost.
 
  #29  
Old 05-03-2020, 11:59 PM
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2003 g35 sedan
Originally Posted by cleric670
Short block = no heads, long block = engine block with heads.

Turbo or SC just depends on where/how you want to make power, SC is typically more "reliable" because of the linear power but you're going to be investing quite a bit to break the 450whp mark. If you are seriously planning on 600whp then you definitely want to start shopping turbo's.

If you want to pull 600whp on pump gas you're probably going to need a 76mm turbo but they're laggy, it's not going to be a lot of fun driving that around town, something like a single 67 will be 60whp less but a LOT more driveable and you can add meth later to cool things down and make more power.

TT requires a lot more work but you get away with smaller turbos and thus less lag.

Anything over 600whp for extended duration you're probably going to need to sleeve the block. My recommendation is shoot for something a LOT more reasonable like 450whp, build the engine to handle the 600 if you want but go easy on it until you have all the bugs worked out of the turbo kit because there WILL be bugs and it's easier to squash them before you crank up the boost.

Ok, so if I was aiming for 450rwhp, which is somewhere around 550-590hp to the crank, which seems like a good number seeing the XJR I drove was 550hp to the crank, would you suggest long or short block? What can the stock heads hold comfortably? I want good power, but something thatll keep up with the likes of c63 amgs, and M3/M4/m5 stuff like that... which as I am reading seems very doable
 
  #30  
Old 05-04-2020, 12:37 PM
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Honestly it depends on your wallet, you can make that power with either however without head work you're going to rely solely on boost to get the air flow, with head work you rely more on the oversized valves / cam to get the airflow and can get by with less boost.

It's just an air pump, only difference is how the air gets in, force it in or allow it to drink air more efficiently.

Boost takes time to build, thus lag. It's always better to run more efficiently rather than rely solely on high boost. However efficiency is typically a lot more expensive than a boost controller
 
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