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  #286  
Old 08-05-2009, 05:42 PM
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Awesome, that's for this detailed thread. I just sent this to my wife so she can STUDY before on the JOB TRAINING!
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  #287  
Old 09-19-2009, 05:03 PM
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ok so you know how the g35's clutch disengages half way when releasing the clutch pedal? so you dont have to fully push down the clutch pedal to shift right? no extra wear occurs on your car because you do so? what about if im racing? should i fully engage the clutch or just slightly
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  #288  
Old 09-19-2009, 06:03 PM
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Asking for trouble.
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  #289  
Old 09-19-2009, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milk Sheikh View Post
ok so you know how the g35's clutch disengages half way when releasing the clutch pedal? so you dont have to fully push down the clutch pedal to shift right? no extra wear occurs on your car because you do so? what about if im racing? should i fully engage the clutch or just slightly
I hope this is a joke
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how do I know it is officially an skyline gtr edition?
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  #290  
Old 09-20-2009, 04:13 AM
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lol instead of calling me out on the noobness could i just get an answer? yes i am new to stick which is why im asking
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  #291  
Old 09-20-2009, 09:14 AM
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I gave you the answer. I have 85000 on my original clutch, I wouldn't do that.
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  #292  
Old 09-20-2009, 11:10 AM
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I never use my clutch/tranny to slow down on a downshift, only to speed up (so always rev matching). The way i see it, brake pads are cheaper than clutches and labor to install them!
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  #293  
Old 09-20-2009, 12:01 PM
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AMEN Brother!
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  #294  
Old 09-20-2009, 12:16 PM
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Our 6mt is definitely quirky, a tad tougher to be smooth with :\ That's for sure after driving all sorts of imports plus tracking, even in comparison with my 00 Max SE and Stage II STi. That high engagement (I adjusted as much as possible for lowered travel) and the snappy spring action (you could feel when pressing the clutch pedal with hands) are the cause. Taking off from a light and 1-2-3 shift takes a bit to be smooth with. What I do before each of these low gear shifts is to quickly bring up the pedal from the bottom to just somewhere 'before' the engagement point, then slow the travel quite a bit at the take up point. This is part of 'finding' the take up. Oh yeah, takes practice on the 6mt, but feels much more seamless betw gears. I'm not riding the clutch, the actual engagement is just like on the other cars. But hey, please depress your pedal all the way down, it will save your plates.
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  #295  
Old 09-21-2009, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by aozmaxed View Post
Our 6mt is definitely quirky, a tad tougher to be smooth with :\ That's for sure after driving all sorts of imports plus tracking, even in comparison with my 00 Max SE and Stage II STi. That high engagement (I adjusted as much as possible for lowered travel) and the snappy spring action (you could feel when pressing the clutch pedal with hands) are the cause. Taking off from a light and 1-2-3 shift takes a bit to be smooth with. What I do before each of these low gear shifts is to quickly bring up the pedal from the bottom to just somewhere 'before' the engagement point, then slow the travel quite a bit at the take up point. This is part of 'finding' the take up. Oh yeah, takes practice on the 6mt, but feels much more seamless betw gears. I'm not riding the clutch, the actual engagement is just like on the other cars. But hey, please depress your pedal all the way down, it will save your plates.

yea exactly, it seems so much more seamless when i dont push done the clutch all the way, it feels like an automatic if i shift correctly. what could go potentially go wrong if i continue doing this? ( legit question)
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  #296  
Old 09-30-2009, 01:29 AM
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great write-up, chilibowl.

i do rev match (as explained by chilibowl in the original post) to speed up and I am quite good at it.
But, i use the double clutch method and brakes to slow down. i do want to learn the proper way to use brakes and downshifting together to slow down... if I try to do it, the car jerks.... any tips on doing that the proper way?
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Last edited by syshs; 09-30-2009 at 01:59 AM.
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  #297  
Old 10-06-2009, 07:16 PM
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Nice write-up. There is one thing though.
I didn't read the entire thread (because it's long and I'm lazy) so I don't know if this has been covered, but if so, it still needs to be edited in the original write-up.

Quote:
unless ur on a hill, you shouldnt have to have your feet on any pedal.
You should always have your foot on the brake when sitting at a light. If the car behind you at the light is rear ended and pushed into you, you will be pushed into the next car, or worse yet, if you're first at the light, you'll be pushed into traffic. Having your foot on the brake doesn't guarantee you won't be pushed anyway, but it does go a long way in preventing it.
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  #298  
Old 10-06-2009, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syshs View Post
great write-up, chilibowl.

i do rev match (as explained by chilibowl in the original post) to speed up and I am quite good at it.
But, i use the double clutch method and brakes to slow down. i do want to learn the proper way to use brakes and downshifting together to slow down... if I try to do it, the car jerks.... any tips on doing that the proper way?
Don't downshift to slow down. Downshift while you're slowing down, but the whole purpose of downshifting is to be in the proper gear to keep the revs up for acceleration.
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  #299  
Old 10-06-2009, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfsp1 View Post
You should always have your foot on the brake when sitting at a light. If the car behind you at the light is rear ended and pushed into you, you will be pushed into the next car, or worse yet, if you're first at the light, you'll be pushed into traffic. Having your foot on the brake doesn't guarantee you won't be pushed anyway, but it does go a long way in preventing it.
And it also lets the few idiots behind you know you are stopped and aren't moving yet.
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