i have been driving about 2 months and i have conquered hills and smooth shifts. my question is why is 1st to 2nd never smooth unless i give a little gas when shifting? also is it ok to give a small mount of gas when upshifting

 

^first to second, u are letting the clutch out too late, so u automatically give it some gas to match the revs with second gear. If u get the timing right u shouldn't have to use the gas pedal while shifting. It will not happen overnight. It takes time.

 

Yes, you do have to equalize with some throttle input, and the more gas you add, the faster you have to let up the clutch.

 

My pleasure.

I'm not a mod so can't help there. Maybe send a pm to your favorite one and ask.

 

oh no I wasn't asking you, I was hoping some mod would of came in and read the thread, but it has already happened

 

thanks for the tips. my second question is about power shifting. i just started to try it and its not that bad, i dont grind gears but im not sure how to go from neutral to first from a stop, is it possible and how do i do it? also someone mentioned using power shifting for drag, is this really dangerous or can it help? thanks

 

What do you mean going from neutral to first from a stop? lol. Simply press the clutch in, and move your shifter from neutral into 1st. lol

Powershifting is a technique where you dont lift off the gas pedal to shift. In other words, if you dont lift off the gas, and you push the clutch in, the revs spike up very quickly because the throttle is at WOT. Dont try and learn powershifting, because powershifting isnt really necessary, and all youre doing is abusing your transmission. When youre drag racing, launch off, redline 1st but dont wait till you actually HIT the redline, right when it nears about 100-200rpm, you shift into 2nd. You always wanna shift at the last millisecond before it hits the rev limiter/fuel cut. The 05-07 6MT rev-up motors have that higher redline for a reason, to use those last 500 RPMs. When racing, you always want to be in the sweet spot, the powerband. If you shift right at redline, you will be higher in the powerband in the next gear, which will grant you more power and top end.

 

maybe im using the wrong word. not power shift but i am shifting without using the clutch. btw thanks for the info

 

I gotta tip..
Save your money and get a car that's not a POS..
G35 6MT's suck *** if you get an 05 and up..
so buy used, or don't buy at all. You'll get more enjoyment out of a pinto, because they don't have to go to service as often..

I'm not a board troll either. I once thought the G35 was a great great car, until I hit 3000 miles and only had 2 cups of oil left in the engine. That's when I realized that the car is crap.
It wasn't until recently that I realized the actual company is worse than any other company you'll ever have to deal with.
You'd think, after my car's been though 30 some odd quarts of oil they'd consider replacing things like the entire exhaust, seeing as how it's COMPLETELY black and clogged with oil, nope.. .. now if my CEL comes on and it's determined the exhaust is causing it then they may do so. .. Or if my car catches on fire because the cats are clogged...
Other reasons they suck.. Well, when my dealer replaced my engine they didn't tighten up the motor mount. I brought it back 4 times.. the 3rd time they told me it was my cold air intake making all the noise.. I didn't agree, but said OK, I'll take that off so you guys can find the real problem next time.
The 4th time he STILL couldn't hear the noise, so I took him for a ride and he finally heard the noise.. Loose motormount.. I've had a loose motormount for 3500 miles.. but... They say it won't cause any damage to any other part of the car because the other two motormounts were ok.. I raise the BS flag as the least it could have done was damage my other two mounts.. the most is sent vibrations through every part of the car that shouldn't be there thus causing other parts to come loose, which will show it's self in about 20,000 miles when my car starts to rattle unmercifully.. They think I'm full of crap because I"m not a mechanic, I'm a customer.
OK, so my car has the following issues.
1 loose sway bar - fixed
1 loose motor mount after they replaced the engine - fixed
1 replaced engine because of the OIL consumption problem (known problem) -fixed
1 headlight just decided to stop working..
and 35 days in service because they make you go back over and over and over before they finally fix the problems.
After filing under the lemon law they denied my claim, even though TN state lemon law specifically says 3 tries at one problem, or 30 days in service in the first year.. I meet both requirements..
I call to find out about this and they said my dealer told them that all my problems are caused by my driving habits.. *** HOLES!!..
I wish I never bought the G35 and I am going to print out about 400 flyers to hand to people pulling into the Infiniti dealer this weekend.. I will explain why they shouldn't buy one..
I think you shouldn't buy one either.

 

What the f*ck does your rant have to do with driving a 6MT? My car has served me well, and im sorry to hear your problems, but you just got a dud bro. Your car was simply built, on a friday night, nearing New Years ... LOL

 

pretty much every thing the OP mentions is pretty accurate, and a lot has to do with "getting in touch" with the car, i found the more i thought about shifting smoother the harder it was, then i started going by feel and sound, and it became instinctual, of course, i started in this:

500lbs, 600cc, 110hp, 12k rpm, 6sp Sequential tranny. probably committed my worst speeding infraction in that, 100kph in a 5kph zone (: (it was on school property and a school project), shame i graduated before making it street legal (:
but yeah, took a lot of work to get it to shift smoothly, so i had lots of practice by the time i got a MT car of my own (91 accord, what a disappointment after the above)

 

i have already had trans problems and i believe i have the oil problem too. there are also alot of rattles and other things wrong with this car. i do feel your pain but i also enjoy working on cars, the only thing stopping me from selling is the fact that this car has potential. just wanted to share that.

o yea... i was thinking about getting a 240 and using the money to mod the shiz out of it and make a super drift car. but idk

 

Yeah, my plan is to get my money back out of this car and buy something used and cheap, so if I do have a problem, its almost expected..
I was thinking about just getting a Hyundai Sonata for driving around and then an 04 MR2 Spyder to turbo charge..

 

Yes we feel sorry for you, but you claim not to be a board troll, yet I just read this exact same post in your other thread. Please don't crap on the forum just because you are pissed off at Infiniti.

 

Good post but a few things I disagree with.
You missed a step in double clutching.
1. clutch in
2. shift to neutral
3. clutch out
4. while clutch is still out, shifter still in neutral, blip throttle/rev match
5. clutch in
6. shift to desired gear
7. clutch out & gas

Double clutching does still have its purposes.
1. It saves synchros.
2. It lets you downshift to first, which is when I double clutch (I also double clutch when dropping 2 gears out of habit)


Another thing about downshifting into first.
Cars with low torque, e.g. 4 cylinder cars, will lug in 2nd gear going at speeds lower than 5-10 mph, especially up an incline.
Help your engine out, downshift to first. Lugging is extremely bad for the engine.