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HELP ! IPDM, Starter, Battery, Alternator?

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  #16  
Old 01-02-2009, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by fbpem1
you know not all dealers steal...its a damn shame too you mention that becuase i was more than willing to help with your issue..
Well i'd like to apologize if i've offended anybody I just usually have bad experiences everytime I go to a dealership. And when I said stealership, i really meant it in a way that they are "expensive" rather than thiefs. Just like Seymore said it's just a term thats used loosely. But my apologies if anyone was/is offended.

As far as an update, the dealership said that I have a bad IPDM and need to replace it. It costs around $509 for the part and over $200 for installation. Something that I cant afford at all right now. So i'm just gonna get the car back from them and try to find a used IPDM from a junk yard.

Thanks anybody for all your help, and if anyone has a IPDM lying around for cheap let me know
 
  #17  
Old 01-06-2009, 12:43 PM
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does anyone know if i get a IPDM from a junk yard would it work it my car or do i need to take it to the dealer to get it programmed or something? thanks....
 
  #18  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:45 AM
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OK so im still looking for an IPDM but I have a question. My transmission is in limp mode meaning that it is driving on one single gear (i think 3rd or fourth) when i put the new IPDM in, would a ECU reset do the trick and bring the transmission back into normal condition? thank you.
 
  #19  
Old 01-17-2009, 01:36 PM
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an ipdm/er is a drop in part you don't need any special programming to get it put in, just take the battery out and then the cover, theres two clips kind of a pain in the ***, try not to break them. Your ecm will be reset anyways when you disconnect the battery since it will probably take you well longer then 10 minutes to get the clips off and the harness disconnected, if theres water standing down there under the battery theres a drain plug (rubber) you should remove to let the water the drain and that will be your issue and water intrusion i have seen this numerous times on G's up untill 2007 sedans when they changed the whole car and the ipdm has a totally different design.
 
  #20  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:27 PM
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oh my god....

so i finally was able to find a totalled g35 that just happened to come into the junk yard and so i bought the IPDM off the car. i put it in, and still the same EXACT thing, the car will not start.

(Just to add a note, the electrician/mechanic i took it to has a wire running from the 4th block towards the top right hand side of the ipdm to the positive side of the battery terminal which is making the car able to start)

how could this be? the dealer's diagnostic check said that the IPDM was no good. I highly doubt that BOTH IPDM's are bad? im beginning to think maybe there is a short in the wiring harnesses? hence the electrician/mechanic running the wire from the IPDM to the positive battery terminal?

please help i could freaking cry ! GRRRRR
 
  #21  
Old 01-21-2009, 08:03 PM
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you purchased a part off of a totalled car...meaning totaling a G is big damage, or it could have sat in the rain and ruined it all it takes is a small amount of water intrusion in the ipdm and its toast.

pop the back of both of them open and look at the back of the board.

Also what fuse is he tapping? i'll tell you where to look in the harness to what fuse it is he ran a wire to.
 
  #22  
Old 01-22-2009, 10:51 AM
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fbpem1, thank you for your help. i will let you know today and post pictures of the ipdm with the wire tap. I just really wanted to thank you. also, I have like $25 dollars in my paypal account that I wish to send you for all your help and advice. please let me know your email address for paypal. thanks again i really truely appreciate your help. i'll post up the pics and detail tonight.
 
  #23  
Old 01-23-2009, 01:00 PM
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nah dude don't worry about it, this isn't a service its a forum thats what this stuff is for sir.
 
  #24  
Old 01-25-2009, 06:12 PM
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thanks again fbpem1.
Well its the starter relay that the wire is tapping. the fourth little thing on the left side of the below image. im still trying to get pics of it its just that its so time consuming to take out the battery and the ipdm but i definately will do it. I also popped the back off and theres a bunch of wires that are put on a board that looks like a mouse maze. what if i take a hair dryer and dry the IPDM? what can I possibly do?

 
  #25  
Old 01-29-2009, 11:58 AM
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bumpidy bump...
 
  #26  
Old 02-17-2009, 03:22 PM
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anyone? please?
 
  #27  
Old 03-29-2009, 01:12 AM
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Hey bro one of our members on G35NYC.com was having similar problem. Check out his thread you might find some usefull info

http://g35nyc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20525
 
  #28  
Old 03-29-2009, 07:39 AM
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Its an 03 right?

Its your stereo...Do a search and you'll see its a know issue with the 03's.You can either spend an assload and replace the stereo/AC unit, or get a kill switch put on so that it kills all the electrical current in your car when its turned off.
 
  #29  
Old 10-07-2009, 11:38 PM
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Exclamation Infiniti G35 IPDM

I own one of the original G35 sedans. I have had to replace the radio this year (still waiting to get my CDs back). That was a $600+ hit that I incurred before running into this discussion forum. Even after the radio was replaced, I still was experiencing battery drain.

I also had a separate (I think) problem with a water-damaged IPDM. I did not let the Infiniti dealer replace the IDPM but rather a highly respected automotive shop in Birmingham (Hesco). What they found was that there is a drain at the bottom of the IPDM box with a rubber grommet. This drain was plugged up thus allowing the water to back up into the IDPM. Eventually, the IDPM goes crazy and gears start slipping along with other problems. We found water collected in the wells in the battery mount where there are no drains. The best possible explanation seems to be that the battery mount fills up with water and spills over onto the IDPM housing box. (why it is adjacent to the IDPM and the IDPM mounted on a wall where water drains, is anyone's guess - I call it poor design). Hesco drilled some drain holes in the battery mount wells and obviously cleared the gunk out of the IDPM drain(while removing the rubber grommet). After that, I have had no battery drain problem.

There are a couple of interesting things to note. First, there is absolutely no mention of the IDPM drain in the Infiniti maintenance guide. Second is that the tech man at the Infiniti dealer initially surmised that the IDPM was corroded and that it could have been a result of water spilling over from the battery. This was an indication to me that he had seen the problem before. Replacing the IDPM was going to cost me $1,000 in any event, but I would not let the dealer do the work.
There is no way of knowing whether the IDPM problem and the radio problem are interconnected (probably not), but they are examples of design problems or equipment problems that Infiniti should have disclosed instead of playing "hide the ball." I just wish there was a way to get Infiniti to step up to the plate.

BTW I recommend that you get your IDPM pulled and check the drain. It might save you some money.
 
  #30  
Old 10-31-2009, 01:36 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm trying to figure out if I have a similar problem...

I have a 04 G35 Sedan. It's the wife's daily driver. About 95k miles. She told me this morning that last night her engine light came on and the car hesitated to start.

A visit to an auto parts store we got the following diagnostic codes:

Definition
BBCamshaft position sensor (CMP or phase) circuit-
BBbank 2
Probable cause
BB1.- Open or short circuit condition
BB2.- Poor electrical condition
BB3.- Faulty starter motor
BB4.- Faulty CMP sensor
BB5.- Engine mechanical condition

The strange thing is that the "VDC" light and "slip" light stay on after starting the car, even if the car is in park. Pushing the "VDC" button does nothing.

All the lights on the instrument panel are kind of throwing me off, but I think it's a faulty starter. Here's why:

With a voltmeter, the battery is a constant 12.9vDC with the car off. It drops to about 10.5 when starting. I believe the alternator to be good, as once the car starts it maintains constant 14v. To further make sure the battery was good, I jumpered the battery to my running truck and waited a few minutes. I then started the car. The car still hesitated to start.

So, I believe that I have eliminated the battery and the alternator. I believe the starter to be the cause of all the problems. Do you agree?

Again, the lights on the instrument panel are the only thing throwing me off. If it is the starter, any good DIY instructions on the web you can forward? Any tips or advice? I've never changed a starter before but I am very tech savvy. I'm a handy man by trade. I just have little to no mechanical knowledge of cars.
 


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