DIY Cam Position Sensor Easy Version
#301
I figured it out. I changed the crankshaft sensor with the camshaft sensor bank 1. My car started acting up, overheating and idling. I went back to check another set of harness that goes under the tb and boom there's the angled sensor. So I replaced the crank with the old one and now I'm in the process of reseting. Hope all goes well.
#302
some newbie question here... Can someone tell me if I get P0345 How can I tell if I need to replace Bank1 or Bank 2 ...
I got the same VDC and slip - car turned off and it wouldn't easily start until I insisted on starting it... then service engine soon came and stuck there..
I did see instructions on how to replace the sensor but just want to make sure which one to buy and replace... also if OEM is the best option here or aftermarket works as well reliably...
Thank you so much in adavance.
I got the same VDC and slip - car turned off and it wouldn't easily start until I insisted on starting it... then service engine soon came and stuck there..
I did see instructions on how to replace the sensor but just want to make sure which one to buy and replace... also if OEM is the best option here or aftermarket works as well reliably...
Thank you so much in adavance.
#305
some newbie question here... Can someone tell me if I get P0345 How can I tell if I need to replace Bank1 or Bank 2 ...
I got the same VDC and slip - car turned off and it wouldn't easily start until I insisted on starting it... then service engine soon came and stuck there..
I did see instructions on how to replace the sensor but just want to make sure which one to buy and replace... also if OEM is the best option here or aftermarket works as well reliably...
Thank you so much in adavance.
I got the same VDC and slip - car turned off and it wouldn't easily start until I insisted on starting it... then service engine soon came and stuck there..
I did see instructions on how to replace the sensor but just want to make sure which one to buy and replace... also if OEM is the best option here or aftermarket works as well reliably...
Thank you so much in adavance.
#306
I got the same code. It's bank 2. The angled sensor on drivers side. Heres a link of the part. http://m.ebay.com/itm/111375155732?nav=SEARCH
Is the part number for 2003 23731-AL61A
Thanks
#307
I see, yes it is not compatible. I tried looking for an oem camshaft sensor bank 2 for your sedan and I couldn't find one. Don't get aftermarket. I myself tried to go with an aftermarket brand (intermotor) and it failed.I suggest you call your local Nissan dealership and ask for that sensor for your sedan. Price might be pricey but infiniti charges more. Call both just in case though, you never know if it will be cheaper at an infiniti dealer. Good luck.
#308
#309
Just got done doing this. long arms are not needed. You will however need to remove the following: throttle body, intake, intake hose going to intake and motor, TB sensor plug. Not really into that manual edu reset. so i have an obd2 reader and rest it via there. will update in 5 days. also went with an oem sensor via ebay $67
#312
I discovered something that i think many are having issues with.
I had the same problem after replacing both sensors with OEM. Turns out, the ECU HAS to be reset after the sensors are replaced or your car will flip out and still appear to have the problem because it's learned and is expecting the data from the previous sensor.
Also turns out the disconnecting-the-battery method of resetting the ECU (even pressing the pedal after) DOES NOT ACTUALLY WORK. It is not a real ECU reset, i'm not sure why so many ppl here seem to think so.
I did the easy pedal method (which is actually really easy, your car beeps once per second when you put your key in to help you).
Since then, not a single problem, even pushed her pretty hard. My car was pretty screwed up after i replaced the sensors, she would also start and the rpm's would fall and stall. Or i would drive about 18 miles and it would glitch like the power went out for a second and car would jolt... it was terrible
I had the same problem after replacing both sensors with OEM. Turns out, the ECU HAS to be reset after the sensors are replaced or your car will flip out and still appear to have the problem because it's learned and is expecting the data from the previous sensor.
Also turns out the disconnecting-the-battery method of resetting the ECU (even pressing the pedal after) DOES NOT ACTUALLY WORK. It is not a real ECU reset, i'm not sure why so many ppl here seem to think so.
I did the easy pedal method (which is actually really easy, your car beeps once per second when you put your key in to help you).
Since then, not a single problem, even pushed her pretty hard. My car was pretty screwed up after i replaced the sensors, she would also start and the rpm's would fall and stall. Or i would drive about 18 miles and it would glitch like the power went out for a second and car would jolt... it was terrible
#313
I discovered something that i think many are having issues with.
I had the same problem after replacing both sensors with OEM. Turns out, the ECU HAS to be reset after the sensors are replaced or your car will flip out and still appear to have the problem because it's learned and is expecting the data from the previous sensor.
Also turns out the disconnecting-the-battery method of resetting the ECU (even pressing the pedal after) DOES NOT ACTUALLY WORK. It is not a real ECU reset, i'm not sure why so many ppl here seem to think so.
I did the easy pedal method (which is actually really easy, your car beeps once per second when you put your key in to help you).
Since then, not a single problem, even pushed her pretty hard. My car was pretty screwed up after i replaced the sensors, she would also start and the rpm's would fall and stall. Or i would drive about 18 miles and it would glitch like the power went out for a second and car would jolt... it was terrible
I had the same problem after replacing both sensors with OEM. Turns out, the ECU HAS to be reset after the sensors are replaced or your car will flip out and still appear to have the problem because it's learned and is expecting the data from the previous sensor.
Also turns out the disconnecting-the-battery method of resetting the ECU (even pressing the pedal after) DOES NOT ACTUALLY WORK. It is not a real ECU reset, i'm not sure why so many ppl here seem to think so.
I did the easy pedal method (which is actually really easy, your car beeps once per second when you put your key in to help you).
Since then, not a single problem, even pushed her pretty hard. My car was pretty screwed up after i replaced the sensors, she would also start and the rpm's would fall and stall. Or i would drive about 18 miles and it would glitch like the power went out for a second and car would jolt... it was terrible