Hey guys, I've been researching this issue all day but I feel like I keep coming up short. I've replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor on my 05 Z in the past.

However, a friend has a 2008 EX35. It is throwing the P0021 code -- "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2).

Would my best bet be to replace Bank 2 camshaft position sensor, or could this be caused by something else? And since this vehicle uses the HR motor, are the camshaft position sensors the same for both sides (Bank 1&2)?? Because everywhere I look, it would appear that there is only one sensor available for the HR motor?! Rockauto only shows 3 available camshaft position sensors and they all appear to be the same angled design. (I would link to it but I can't figure out how) EDIT: Here is a link from a search on O'Reilly for an example: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...X35&vi=1441982

I'm slightly confused and could really use some advice... thank you in advance.

 

here are some part numbers, get them from amazon.

Cam sensor Driver - AL61A
Cam sensor Pass - 6J90B
Crank sensor - AL60C
Knock sensor - 2A000

Nissan 23731-AL60C, Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor $80 on Amazon and prime eligible.
by Nissan
Link: http://amzn.com/B00BFE1V80

 

I'm working on a 2007 g35 all wheel drive and it kicked code p0345 and started running ruff. I replace all 4 cam sensors and it still does the same way and kicks the same code. I pulled the spark plugs and the 3 plugs on the driver side were gas fouled the passenger side was fine. I replace all the spark plug with denso iridum plugs. And cleaned both throttle bodies. And it still runs the same way. I did the edu reset several times with the gas pedal and disconnected the battery also. And I cleaned the mass air flow sensors. Please help. Thanks.

 

I replaced the crank sensor and the battery today and it still does the same thing.

 

Thanks that save me a lot of time. Was able to reach the sensor from the passenger side. No need to take anything off.

 

I replaced the Bank 2 cam sensor this weekend and the SES code went off. However it still has a 1000-1200rpm on idle and it sounds pretty rough when cold in the morning.

Any ideas?

 

I replaced Bank 1 successfully and when I got to pulling out the Bank 2 sensor, it looks exactly the same as Bank 1! The sensor is not angled, am I missing something here? I have an 05 sedan 6mt. I have an OEM Bank 2 sensor that doesn't fit my car for sale if anyone is interested.

 

Does anyone know what a trouble code of 4003 means?

 

I want to express my thanks to the people who created the post on this forum. It was very helpful to me in fixing my car. I want to share my experience so others can learn from what I went through.

I had the check engine, VDC, and Slip lights come on my 2005 Infiniti G35. I went to Autozone and the plugged into my car computer and I had error code P0340 which is the driver side (bank 2) cam shaft position sensor. I bought the aftermarket part from Autozone and followed the instructions on this forum to replace it. At first it seemed intimidating because of how many parts I would have to take off to get to the cam shaft position sensor. It really was not that bad and I am a car repair novice. After I replaced it the VDC and Slip lights went off and the car drove much better however it still was not right. I thought maybe it was my imagination but it did not start crisply, nor did it have the crisp, screaming acceleration I am used to. I found a procedure (see below) to reset the check engine light and it worked like a charm. Soon after I reset it, it came back on again. I went to Autozone again and now I had the P0021 code. I found on another forum where people had done the same as me and replaced the cam shaft position sensor with an aftermarket part like I did. When they replaced it with an OEM part the problem was solved. I used this site (www.G35Parts.com) to buy the genuine Infiniti OEM part at a fraction of the price as from the dealer. I reinstalled it again. The second time it took me about 1/3 the time since now I knew how to do the repair. When I went to take it for a test drive what a difference I noticed. The car screamed with acceleration again. I reset the check engine light using the procedure below and I have no problem now. A word to the wise for those who need to do this repair, DON’T USE AFTER MARKET PARTS. It cost me $75 and 90 minutes of my time to learn that.

Here is the procedure I used to reset the check engine light - "Easy Method"

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

 

I want to express my thanks to the people who created the post on this forum. It was very helpful to me in fixing my car. I want to share my experience so others can learn from what I went through.

I had the check engine, VDC, and Slip lights come on my 2005 Infiniti G35. I went to Autozone and the plugged into my car computer and I had error code P0340 which is the driver side (bank 2) cam shaft position sensor. I bought the aftermarket part from Autozone and followed the instructions on this forum to replace it. At first it seemed intimidating because of how many parts I would have to take off to get to the cam shaft position sensor. It really was not that bad and I am a car repair novice. After I replaced it the VDC and Slip lights went off and the car drove much better however it still was not right. I thought maybe it was my imagination but it did not start crisply, nor did it have the crisp, screaming acceleration I am used to. I found a procedure (see below) to reset the check engine light and it worked like a charm. Soon after I reset it, it came back on again. I went to Autozone again and now I had the P0021 code. I found on another forum where people had done the same as me and replaced the cam shaft position sensor with an aftermarket part like I did. When they replaced it with an OEM part the problem was solved. I used this site (www.G35Parts.com) to buy the genuine Infiniti OEM part at a fraction of the price as from the dealer. I reinstalled it again. The second time it took me about 1/3 the time since now I knew how to do the repair. When I went to take it for a test drive what a difference I noticed. The car screamed with acceleration again. I reset the check engine light using the procedure below and I have no problem now. A word to the wise for those who need to do this repair, DON’T USE AFTER MARKET PARTS. It cost me $75 and 90 minutes of my time to learn that.

Here is the procedure I used to reset the check engine light - "Easy Method"

Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

 

^ easiest way is to use the beeps the car makes when you turn the key. They are timed for you, intended for this purpose.

 

Good point. B

 

Hi all, thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread! Helped me a lot with the fix.. However, I am experiencing yet another problem with my 2006 G35 Sedan. I had just replaced my Camshaft Sensors Bank 1 and 2 with OEM ones. Car was running great and was able to take it out of town. Now, 2 weeks and about 1000 clicks later, the dreaded Service Engine Soon, VDC and SLIP lights are back on. The car's having a hard time starting again just like before both sensors were replaced. All symptoms are basically the same as when the car first started having problems - only difference was the car died on idle earlier today. Any idea on what might be causing this? Perhaps the crankshaft sensor has gone bad too? Thanks!

 

Those are symptoms of a failed sensor yes. Pull the codes Again... You may be able to get a replacement for free since it is OEM under parts warrantee .

 

Another victim of the dreaded "camshaft sensor failure", Bank 1, at 86k, 6mt coupe. Car refused to start without jump! Much appreciation to everyone who put in positive information on this.

The stalling, unable to start without jump, bogging, vdc/slip/check engine lights all cleared and she's running like a champ! Could have completed the job in 5 minutes, but that clip is a Bi! Once you understand how it releases, you may feel like an idiot as I did......

NOTE: 3 weeks before "bank 1 failure" I was getting small electrical shocks opening door, closing door, touching trunk. Since repair, all shocking is absent.......