Air Relief Valve
#1
Air Relief Valve
Hello today i was trying to remove some trapped air out of my system and while i as unscrewing the air relief screw radiator fluid just started spraying all over the car and on my face . After i turned the car off i realized the plastic valve broke inside the hose.
My question is does anyone have a link to where i can buy the valve or even the full set up with the hose? The car is a 2003 skyline 350gt coupe. Thank you.
One other thing, where is the thermostat located because i would like to replace that as well.
My question is does anyone have a link to where i can buy the valve or even the full set up with the hose? The car is a 2003 skyline 350gt coupe. Thank you.
One other thing, where is the thermostat located because i would like to replace that as well.
#2
Just put a new heater hose in there and get rid of the valve. Same thing happened to me and it was lukewarm. I don't even use that valve to remove air from the system anymore.
Thermostat is on the right side of the engine if I remember correctly. It's in a housing unit that you need to unscrew it from.
Thermostat is on the right side of the engine if I remember correctly. It's in a housing unit that you need to unscrew it from.
#3
I drove ttrank's car solo
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The thermostat is ridiculously easy to replace and bleeding the radiator can be ridiculously hard to get right. coffey is correct, the thermostat is on the upper right of the motor looking at it from the front of the car. Remove 2 hoses, take out 3 bolts remove and replace. You'll have minimal coolant leak out if it's still in the system. Try to have the front end of the car up in the air when bleeding, it helps a lot. That encourages the air to move forward in the system so it can escape.
#5
Thanks for the advice guys really appreciate it. I was looking around on z1motorsport and found the valve there. They have a metal one that i would prefer over the plastic thats out of stock, but I think ill do what coffeysm said and just remove the damn thing because i definitely dont want to mess around with that again. Ill just order a spill free funnel to get the air out.
I bought an oem thermostat from z1 as well so i will replace that just to be on the safe side.
I bought an oem thermostat from z1 as well so i will replace that just to be on the safe side.
#6
The key to not getting air in the system is to lift the front end of the car a bit with some ramps and very slowly fill the radiator, stopping every once in a while to push up and down on the car or rock it back and forth a bit to shake out any bubbles. I also start the car up with the radiator cap off and bounce it a bunch and rev it a bit while looking at the top of the radiator filler opening through the little space between the hood and bottom of the windshield.
Both times I flushed my coolant using this approach resulted in no trapped air and a nice tight system that cooled the car effectively and also provides heat to the heater effectively.
Both times I flushed my coolant using this approach resulted in no trapped air and a nice tight system that cooled the car effectively and also provides heat to the heater effectively.
#7
I've done my coolant about three times and this is what I usually do with a spill free funnel.
1. Pour in coolant
2. Overfill reservoir
3. Fill up spill free enough so it just covers the spout
4. Rev the engine till about 1500-2000 for a few seconds
5. Squeeze upper and lower hoses
6. Repeat steps 4-5 several times
7. Feel the hoses and when they're both hot.
8. I close the system up and at this point, I usually still have cold cabin heat
9. Take a spirited drive and the rest of the bubbles work themselves out
10. Top off the reservoir
11. Carry around some coolant or distilled water as more bubbles work out
Haven't had any issues doing it this way. Just have to make sure you're positive that the engine is cooling. Most of the bubbles in my experience get stuck in the heater core. I usually keep the heat on also to get it flowing through the heater core.
It takes me about 1.5 - 2 hours after all is said and done, but I'm looking forward to using my AirLift II next time should only take 10 minutes.
1. Pour in coolant
2. Overfill reservoir
3. Fill up spill free enough so it just covers the spout
4. Rev the engine till about 1500-2000 for a few seconds
5. Squeeze upper and lower hoses
6. Repeat steps 4-5 several times
7. Feel the hoses and when they're both hot.
8. I close the system up and at this point, I usually still have cold cabin heat
9. Take a spirited drive and the rest of the bubbles work themselves out
10. Top off the reservoir
11. Carry around some coolant or distilled water as more bubbles work out
Haven't had any issues doing it this way. Just have to make sure you're positive that the engine is cooling. Most of the bubbles in my experience get stuck in the heater core. I usually keep the heat on also to get it flowing through the heater core.
It takes me about 1.5 - 2 hours after all is said and done, but I'm looking forward to using my AirLift II next time should only take 10 minutes.