I want to give my thanks for these DIY videos. Just installed my Motordyne 5/16 spacer and throttle coolant bypass valve. Everything on tee. Again, thanks.

 

What he said. I've done several of the jobs on the DIY videos and they are a big help.

I have a suggestion for one in the future .. valve covers. I just replaced my plugs (82k) and there was just a touch of oil on the boot over the #6 cylinder. This indicates leaking from the spark plug tube gasket. For my wife's Subaru, I took the valve covers off and replaced the gaskets. For some reason that escapes me, Infiniti (Nissan) molds the spark plug tube gaskets right into the valve cover. So instead of buying $15 worth of spark plug tube gaskets, you have to buy 2 new valve covers (around $350 online, probably ~$500 at dealer).

Even as a DIY, this is not a cheap job. It looked to me that getting the valve covers off would not be real easy, judging by what was left after getting to the plugs .. would love to be wrong about that.

In any event, I think this would be a great DIY video because all of us keeping our G's for awhile are going to be faced with this. If you are under 70k (powertrain warranty) I would recommend changing your plugs just to check for this condition. You could also just pull the coil pack boots to see if there's any oil on them w/o changing the plugs.

 

Hi Bythabay,

First, I must thank you for all your DIY. I already did my oil change following your video. I watched the coolant change DIY video twice and have a few questions.

1) How many o-rings do I need to get? 1 for the drain plug and 1 for the air relief plug on the battery side? From the Infiniti manual, it also said there's a air relief plug by the heater hose. So do I need 2 or 3?

2) I see that you mixed coolant with distilled water. Can I just buy the 50/50 coolant off the shelf? How many do I need?



3) You also replaced the coolant cap. Do you really need to replace that?

Sorry for all the questions but just wanted to pick up what I need from the dealer before I attempt the coolant change.

With that being said, I still need to do Transfer fluid/Differential/ATF. You had a video on differential and that seems doable so I probably attempt that. I heard ATF, you need two people to drain/refill, so I guess I have to take it out to a shop/nissan to do it.

Any videos on the transfer fluid change in the future? Sorry, not sure if I should post the question here or the technical section.

Thanks...

 

1)
You will need 2 o-rings; one for the air relief, and one for the radiator drain plug.

2)If you can, try not to use an aftermarket coolant. Every manufacturer has their coolant formulated to interact a certain way with the components in the cooling system. Just go with the OEM fluid + distilled water and you will have no worries. If switching coolant types it is best to get rid of all of the old coolant.

3)Replacing the radiator cap is optional - inspect and replace as needed.

4)To service the ATF you do not need 2 people, 1 person is fine.

5)No videos on transfer fluid change, however, I am told by nissan it is the same procedure as the differential except you are supposed to use the matic-j or one of those ATF fluids.

 

Thanks for your reply. For the last 4 years, anytime the antifreeze dips a little under the FULL line, I've been adding the prestone antifreeze in (actually the bottle must be 5 years old by now, should I get a new bottle). So is it bad for the coolant system that I am not using OEM?

If I get the OEM, how much distilled water do I need to get? Or it's the same exact quantity as the OEM coolant.

As for the ATF, I want to do that. From posting, people said it drains out about 4 quarts. So all I need to do it just fill it back the same amount on the top tube and call it a day? Do I need to do multilple ATF change to get rid of more old fluids?

 

Just found this thread and it's a keeper!

I watched the Motordyne spacer install and would like to give everyone a little hint that will save you a bunch of frustration. Being the "Shade Tree" mechanic that I am, I am always looking for easy ways to save time and busted knuckles, so when I did my MREV2 install, I didn't bother with all the hoses at the back of the upper plenum. I just disconnected the Z tube and the TB and then lifted the upper plenum and held it in place with a bungee cord. Simple! It stayed out of the way and I didn't even have to disconnect the TB servo, so no re-cal problems after install.

Here's a pic:

 

Sweet, I love shortcuts

 

It's hard to say if it's really bad.. there is a whole science behind what belongs in a coolant, and every manufacturer has their own formula for one reason or another.

This is how I service the ATF:

Drain whatever ATF is in the pan (usually between 3 and 4 quarts). Next, I pour the drained oil into a container that has marks on it, so I know exactly how much oil I drained out.

I refill the trans with the same amount I drained, +1 quart. Next, I disconnect the cooler return line, start the engine, and let it drain out about 2-3 quarts - making sure the pan does not run dry. I then top off the trans to make sure that the fluid I drained has been replaced by fresh fluid. I usually go through about 6qts using this method, this replaces a little more than half of all the ATF in the trans. Also recommend installing an in-line ATF filter if you plan on keeping your G for a long time.

 

Just curious how many quarts or gallons you need for coolant change?

Ok, the procedure you said about ATF I think is why some said you need two people (one pouring on top while the other watch it drain on bottom). I probably wouldn't want to do that and just do the "simplest" drain/refill. Since I am a newbie, chances I'll let too much drain while I pour from the tube on top and screw up something. So I'll probably just skip that step. Drained whatever is on pan (about 4 quart) and pour in exactly the same on the top ATF tube. That at least is better than not changing the ATF at all. Then maybe I can repeat that in another 1.5 to 2 yrs since I put in very low mileage. I'll probably attempt the coolant change first but I do appreciate all your feedbacks. My first oil change did beefed up my courage to attempt more DIY and I must give thumbs up to your DIY. Would be nice if you have an ATF video too.

 

Do you have the part #'s for the air relief o-ring and the radiator drain plug o-ring?

Thanks...

 

Just buy the premix. It's made with "de-mineralized" water.

 

I don't have the part numbers with me right now, but I can post them up when I get to my documents.

 

Many thanks...

 

DRAIN **** INF 21481-89900

approx $2.25 each + tax retail cost

 

for some reason the word C O C K is being converted into ****