Change your pcv calve with an oem replacement at the same time you do your can. I didn't have a socket large enough but a pair of pliers did the trick for me.

 

My G was consuming oil at about 1qt every 1k miles. The problem is definitely the OEM rings it seem Nissan was going for as little friction as possible which resulted in "soft" rings. I replaced all my rings and it solved the problem. Bad rings will increase crank pressure which will in return increase the amount of oil that goes through the PCV valve and into the plenum so a catch can will stop most of that but it will still burn oil. The problem with sustained oil consumption is the carbon buildup, one of my exhaust valves had a rock size carbon buildup that resulted in the valve not closing all the way and a misfire code. This was all at 180,000 miles on my '04.

 

Does anyone know the inlet and out let diameter of a HR y-pipe? or the inlet of a '06 mid pipe? I am asking because I have berks HFC with 2.5" outlets but don't know what it is going into but I think it is smaller than 2.5" causing like "pressure release" noises. Thanks for any help.

 

It's been a while since I changed my Y-pipe, but if IRC, it's 2 1/4 in and 2 1/2 out.

 

I read their are a few variants on the hr y.. some that are 2.5 in and some are 2.25.

 

Mine was from a '08 350Z.

 

Why are y'all changing your y-pipe? Performance or rusting out?

 

Mine was leaking brotha, and now I have horrendous rasp in the cabin.. but the exhaust note from outside the car is rasp free. Hate it but my brother wailed on it for me while I stood outside and love the note. Currently have berk hfc and a Megan y with stock res and muff. Gonna swap out the gasket after the y because I think the flange isn't sealing on the stock portion so I'll gasket seal it.

 

Recently purchased a bone stock 2003.5 G35 sedan. Great car, no major issues, so beyond regular maintenance items I'm working through, I want an idea what path to take for additional performance parts.


I managed to locally source an MD 5/16 spacer and Pop Charger (just waiting to track down a z tube to finish up the intake side of things).


With intake taken care of, I'll eventually move towards the exhaust side and go test pipes XYZ y pipe and then probably a custom 3 inch back.


However, a couple interesting parts have come up for sale locally and I don't know which I should jump on first. I'd jump on them all but have to restrain my budget.


I eventually want to upgrade brakes, and I think the OEM Brembo brakes off a 6MT coupe or 350z is the way I want to go. Someone has them for sale locally at a reasonable price (1k with calipers, pads, lines, and all mounting hardware). That's option 1.


Coilovers are a must. The stock suspension is a little higher and softer than I really want. A set of Tein Mono Flex's have come up at a very reasonable price (sub 1k). I don't know if this is specifically the coilovers I want for a daily driver, I've read they're VERY stiff, but I do like the quality and the fact that they can be rebuilt, revalved, dampening controlled electronically, etc. but maybe I should hold off even if the price is very enticing and get something more suited to hitting a bump or crack in the road once in a while. That's option 2.


So the question is, if you could only choose between upgrading to the OEM brembo brakes or the Tein Flex's next, what would you do?

 

Make sure the brake upgrade has enough clearance. Would suck to have brembros and not be able to install them. Are you rwd or x? Tien street basis z (s) can be bought brand new for $460 which could afford you to possibly buy the big brake upgrade as well.

You'll have excessive camber being lowered and a normal alignment won't cut it. You'll need to drop some money on adjustable camber items (drawing a blank on the names and too tired to search for you). Stock bushings will quickly wear out if not changed or upgraded.

Read the faq and do some searching. Z1 makes an aluminum z tube that is fairly priced if you don't feel like finding a oem z tube.

I'd stay away from the 3 in custom exhaust if you have no plans of going FI or getting tuned as it will most likely be a waste.

A well known member said if he cold only do one upgrade it would be on sways as it improved the overall feel far better than any mod.

Welcome to G. search and be merry.

 

For under 1k, you can get some lowering springs with some Tokico D-Specs which will give you a more comfortable ride than the Tein coilovers. And if you go with Z suspension parts, trust me, your car will handle better too.

And plus, coilovers do not last too long on street cars as it is and that used set you are looking at can be close to the end of its life.

 

Good call on the Brembos. I forgot they wouldn't clear my winters on the OEM 17s so no point purchasing something I wouldn't be able to run until the summer anyways.

RWD and in Canada, so I couldn't get a Street Basics for much less than $700 Canadian Dollerydoos (which have been on a downard spiral conversion rate) plus shipping and taxes. I also read the Street Basics are only slightly firmer than stock without a whole lot of adjustment, which is why I was comparing to the used set of Mono Flexes which offer a wider range of ride height and dampening adjustments and even the ability for on the fly electronic dampening adjustments if I choose to add the kit later (all for just slightly more than the Basics). Would be following up with the proper camber kits as required. So at the same price, would you take the mono flexes or the street basics for a daily driver?

Looked into the Z1 intake tube but trying to find a Canadian supplier to avoid conversion/import duties/tax.

Mostly looking at 3" because I haven't really seen any hard number that back up how much exhaust scavenging is going on beyond the y-pipe and opens up to FI later without having to swap my exhaust. And custom only because once again after shipping/conversion/tax and duties, most aftermarket exhaust systems will be more than just getting a simple y-back custom exhaust bent.

Haven't looked much into swaybars but that's a good call. I know I've swapped on other cars to change the driving characteristics (thicker in back, thinner in front to induce more oversteering, vice versa for understeer). Will have to do some more reading to figure out what combinations would best suit my driving!

That was my original plan but I like the idea of being able to adjust ride height as I haven't fully decided on what wheel setup to run. Is there any major advantages of running a performance shock/drop spring combo over coilovers?

 

I wanna say that I saw that the spring rate on the tiens I'm talking about were 500.. maybe I mistook them and they are 400. All I know is I'd take the tien basics with sways if they are lower spring rates so that I had a comfortable ride and toss on a strut tower brace as well. I'm about 2 seasons away from coils and sways atm. Just picked up full front es bushings, new compression rod (for the ball joint), an upper control arm(same reason) and sway bar end links.

I'm debating on if I should buy inner and outer tie rods.. how should I go about checking if they are in spec?? I have limited time to turn wrenches so if I can skip them I would prefer it.

 

I'm the suggestor lol of the sway bars. For a little over $300 they provide the best bang for the buck of any single mod. The minute you pull out of your driveway or wherever you did the swap you will feel an immediate difference on how the car drives. Much tighter and responsive, they completely change the dynamics of the car. If I could go back and change my whole build, I wouldn't have done half of what I did. I would have saved the tons of cash it took me to add 40 HP and just put a Vortech supercharger on the motor, Osiris, MD VQ sedan exhaust, sways, coilovers, DD radio, wheels, sport pedals and front and rear lip. I'm disappointed long term I spent money on intakes, multiple suspension set-ups, plenum spacer, all the dress up parts in the engine bay etc. On my GTO I can spend less than $2000, add an exhaust, headers and a cam and voila, 80HP to the wheels magically appears.

But I'm 8 years older than I was then and have a different set of priorities so I completely understand why I went where I did. Philth the plenum spacer and intake are super popular mods but is there really any benefit in spending $500 to get gains you might not even feel with the butt dyno? At this point in my life that just doesn't make any sense. But to all of you out there, it's your car so do what you want if it makes you happy. That's all that matters to each of us in the end. Just don't post a thread titled "What kinda wheels should I get for my ride" or "What's the best intake" cuz if you do I will put you on blast so hard your eyeball will get Glennified lolololololol

 

Visually inspect for cracking/tearing of the rubber boot and any excessive play in the joint itself. Listen for clicking or grinding in the joint when moving wheel side to side. Just general rule of thumb for ball joints. If you're already down there and you plan on getting an alignment anyways outer tie rods are usually a quick and easy replacement (assuming the old ones arent rusted and seized on and you have a decent ball joint popper). I've done lots of other tie rods on different vehicles but haven't taken a crack at the G yet.

I know what you mean by overspending for a couple of HP that you'll probably never feel... Bought the spacer because it was cheap and local and figured it was worth a shot. Intake because I do like the sound of short intake.

What size sways do you run front and back?