I don't know where the heck you're searching, but I've never seen a vertical billet grill on a G35. But there are some options for aftermarket grills out there.
To answer the question you should have started with, no, a coupe grill will not fit a sedan.
Also, you made a remark about replacing the front bumper... I'm not sure what exactly is the source of that line of thought, but...
first, you don't have to replace the bumper to replace the grill,
second there are very few aftermarket front bumpers that include the grill as one piece... and I'm not sure if there are any for the sedan,
and third, if you're thinking about switching a bumper with a coupe or a different generation sedan (03-04 to 05-06 or vice-versa) that won't work without replacing the whole front end (hood, headlights, fenders, etc...) plus the potential for custom work.

 

I have read a lot on what I can and can not swap on the 03' sedans. 04-05s from door forward will not fit, I knew that, sorry not to clarify. I know the bumper skin can be bought and replaced, but I'm trying to avoid this. I know some coupe parts fit (springs, mid pipe, etc.) and yet I couldn't find anything on grills. Straight swap with the grill is what I'm in searching for that isn't "Billet" style. I've already removed my grill to have it painted but I'm not happy with how it looks. Vertical Billet is interesting but it's not what I envision for my sedan.

So apparently, if I don't want to change the bumper itself, I'm gonna have to have one fabricated. Would you say this is a safe assumption?

 

Is your grill broken or something?

 

First of all... my GOD that is a hideous grill!!!

Ok... so here's some clarification:
03-04 Sedan: Same body style.
05-06 Sedan: Same body style.
To go between the 03-04 and 05-06 body will require FOR SURE:
Headlights, grill, hood.
It might also require fenders, I've never seen a definitive yes/no.

Sedan to Coupe: need all the coupe front end parts, plus fenders will have to be customized.

For 05-06 sedans, a vendor on G35Driver actually makes a very nice looking emblemless grill. It's the same horizontal bar style as the OEM grill (actually molded off one) just with no emblem.
One of those in black usually looks really nice. Some colors can pull off other things besides black.

If you have an 03-04, then your options are a little more limited.
You could have a body shop shave the emblem from your stock grill (or DIY, there's a thread here)

There are some other aftermarket options, though they can hard to find.

 

^^^ Yeah, Limited is an understatement... I did find a nice looking Mesh Grill but it was an "Overlay" adaptation for the OEM grill, and they wanted +$600. Upon looking at it closer, it's crap up close. I don't want Walmart ghetto swap meet universal bling bling chromed plastic crap...

Thanks anyways, looks like I'm going to attempt fabrication...

 

These should help:
https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...ess-grill.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/media-s...rille-diy.html

 

Hello, I have a problem with my G, 05 Sedan, A/T, everything stock.
It drives fine when ambient temperature is under 80 degrees(usually at night or morning) and responding well to accelerator pedal. But i leave in FL and temp here are 90+ and my car is loosing a lot of power, it feels like ~40%. I changed spark plugs for new iridium NGK. I don't have CEL light.
I noticed that even in hot days 90+ when i start the car it has a lot of power but only for about first 5 minutes, after the engine warms up again it losses power. Engine temp is normal, gauge show little lower than middle.
few days ago i tried another MAF sensor, and there is the same problem, so the problem is not MAF.

 

Sounds like heat soak or parasitic loss from using the ac. Which intake do you have?

 

Stock intake, except z-tube+new oem air filter that i installed only 2 days ago(no difference).
Also with or without AC there is no big difference, it's little better with a/c off but anyway it's like a civic...
I also checked ignition coils resistance and it looks ok, all 6 coils have nearly same resistance.
I will get Consult III in few days, want to check coolant temp. What is the normal coolant temp?

 

That would be the best way to diagnose this. It sounds like your car might be going into limp mode for some reason, and coolant temp might be an issue.

 

06 G35X, I have an LED shorting or dieing out on my gauge cluster for the upper 2/3s of my odometer reading, i guess there are 2 there because the lower 1/3 is fine and same with the trip odometer. Do LEDs usually just die all at once or can they come and go for a bit before eventually completely dieing? I ask because every now and then I have seen it display 100% fine, but it doesn't take long to go back to being dim so if that's normal, then its probably just dieing, otherwise it might be some sort of short?

I've tried a few searches for a DIY removal of that panel just to see how hard it would be, but I cant seem to find anything other than a text based quick explanation of some screws to remove and/or its been on much older or newer models so I'm not sure if any apply to the 06 sedan.

I will try and look some more, but I figured I'd check here in case anyone knows the difficulty level of removing that cluster and then also fixing/changing the LEDs as well as the previous question to verify if its dieing or what.

 

To the slammed guys out there:

I'm on stance true type coils, fender height is at about 24.75" all around.

How the hell do you guys drive this low? I'm scraping everywhere, on the freeway, just making turns at 10-15 mph at intersections, everywhere. I'm currently set at full soft (in order to pass inspection here in Hawaii), would something close to full stiff make a big difference?

After driving at this height, no where close to some of the static guys on here, I give you props. I might have to raise the car a bit, this is too much scraping than I can handle.

 

It is a very intensive repair. Lots of work for low reward.

 

When you drop your car low enough, you need to set the suspension to a very firm setting to restrict the movement to keep your car off of the ground.

The lower you drop your car, the firmer the suspension needs to be. Technically, what's more important is to have springs that are stiff enough to handle the load of the car without much give, and you ideally want struts with a good rebound, although having something that matches the spring rates will work just fine.

 

Would setting the coils from full soft to near full stiff make a noticeable difference?

Thanks