Hmm...looks like I need to change my PCV then

 

Wow I have 191k and at 3500 miles into oil change i am 1/4 to 1/3 qt low. I guess my car is doing well.

 

LoSt180
I have read the reset of the ECU which i remove the neg. on the battery and push the brake down 7 times and reconnect, no issues.

The question has to do with the TB procedure instruction steps below. The first two steps are clear. The issue is the Idle / Air learning procedure that shows instructions with steps numbered 1 thru 12. The first two steps is repeating what i printed below and then says in step 3 to start and warm up car.
Are you supposed to redo the first two procedures i listed below when doing the Idle / Air learning procedure ?


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures



Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications

 

No you don't have to redo those procedures, think of them as preforming the first two steps of the Idle / Air Learning procedure.

Also for step 3, don't just start the car and let it warm up, take it for a quick 10 minute drive or so to get all fluids properly warmed up. I couldn't get the procedure to stick until after I took it for a drive and tried again.

 

LoSt180
Ok, thanks for clarifying. I have been doing it twice and i don't think it matters but just a waste of time.
One thing i found is to reset the ECU when the engine has sat overnight. I messed up one step today and when i redid it, the car had no low torque and there was peddle delay. First time i felt the car do this when not redoing the ECU cold. Normally i take the car out and press the peddle hard to the floor when shifting for the first time I do this around the first 3 times and then shift at around 3500 rpm, excellerating with each shift. You can feel the car push you back in the seat right from the start. Nothing today so i will redo it tomorrow.
You mentioned waiting 30 min to check the dipstick. When your oil is full, is it at the half way point on the crosshatch marks since this is where the manual says it should be ?
I checked mine today and this is where it was at hot as well as when it was checked cold yesterday
Found out for the first time about the oil drain hole right over the dipstick splashing oil.
I always found the dipstick difficult to get in and out fast until yesterday.
The bend at the end of the dipstick should go into the block with it pointing at the 9:00 postion if you look at the hole as a clock. Push in fast and out fast and no oil upward on the dipstick. If i did it slow, there was the oil upward again from the splashing of oil

 

I always top mine off to the H-line, top of the hash marks. I've noticed I get a little bit of timing chain rattle when I get down near the halfway point.
The FSM says to only wait 10 minutes before checking, I just prefer to give it a little longer.