Trunk won't open
#17
I see... starting to make some sense. So the 4 beeps is telling me the trunk has been disabled? So hopefully everything in the trunk is fine, and that the circuit from the control board to the switch in the glove box is open, due to bad wiring, etc.
As a total aside, I have never understood the valet lockout/override. I put the usefulness of that switch right up there with the stupid 6 disc CD changer in the trunk.
As a total aside, I have never understood the valet lockout/override. I put the usefulness of that switch right up there with the stupid 6 disc CD changer in the trunk.
#19
Yeah thanks... I'm starting to piece it together now. I'm now hopeful by "wire pinch" we are talking near the switch in the glove box. I rarely open/close my glove box but with having the car in the dealership, and another mechanic and dealing with getting my engine swapped I've been in and out of the glove box alot in the last couple weeks and am now wondering if I "pinched" those wires there.
So maybe tonight I'll pull the glove box, switch and have a look. Of course it was -2 driving into work this morning so maybe I'll wait until tomorrow and hope it warms up a little.
Thanks for the help guys.
Again if anyone has a wiring diagram on this, would be greatly appreciated!
So maybe tonight I'll pull the glove box, switch and have a look. Of course it was -2 driving into work this morning so maybe I'll wait until tomorrow and hope it warms up a little.
Thanks for the help guys.
Again if anyone has a wiring diagram on this, would be greatly appreciated!
#20
#21
Isn't it warm in NY right now? I'm in Minneapolis and it was -15 when I woke up this morning. Too darn cold to go work out in the garage. I have a couple space heaters and they won't make a dent on these low temps unfortunately. I really wanted to take a look at it today before traveling for the holidays but I may just have to tie a string to the manual release and call it good for the next few days.
#23
My trunk failed yesterday, 2004 Coupe. This will make the third time that this has happened. The first two times was the result of wire failing in the trunk where it connects to the lid, had to repair the wiring inside the rubber collar, I strongly suspect that this is now the same thing. Damn wires are starting to get to patched to repair.
#24
Thanks everyone for your help. I did finally get it fixed today. It warmed up to a tropical 40 degrees here in the Twin Cities! Of course tomorrow it's back down to zero or so for the high. Crazy weird weather we're having.
Anyway, after pissing away way too much time pulling the glove box, removing the trunk cover thing, etc. it indeed was the wiring going into the trunk.
I'm kinda kicking myself because that was the first thing I pulled the night the trunk went out. The broken wires were just a little farther down in the rubber hose and I did not see them. So yes, an hour soldering and taping some wires and it's working again. I'm concerned about the longevity of the whole system as I had two broken wires and there were two more that were on their way.
Hopefully I'm good for a little while now with this car.
Anyway, after pissing away way too much time pulling the glove box, removing the trunk cover thing, etc. it indeed was the wiring going into the trunk.
I'm kinda kicking myself because that was the first thing I pulled the night the trunk went out. The broken wires were just a little farther down in the rubber hose and I did not see them. So yes, an hour soldering and taping some wires and it's working again. I'm concerned about the longevity of the whole system as I had two broken wires and there were two more that were on their way.
Hopefully I'm good for a little while now with this car.
#25
Luds,
Same concern that I have. I am waiting for it to warm up enough to do the work, but after having done this twice so far, wondering where the break is this time. I have been using the grade of wire that one uses on R/C battery packs. It is heavy enough to carry the current load and pliable to stand up to the bending. The last time I repaired this, which was after the first break repair, the damage was in a spot more proximal than the first repair, but not on the wire or solder spot that I have previously worked on.
I am wondering if there is a full length replacement piece for this or if the shop repairs it the way we have been doing it.
Same concern that I have. I am waiting for it to warm up enough to do the work, but after having done this twice so far, wondering where the break is this time. I have been using the grade of wire that one uses on R/C battery packs. It is heavy enough to carry the current load and pliable to stand up to the bending. The last time I repaired this, which was after the first break repair, the damage was in a spot more proximal than the first repair, but not on the wire or solder spot that I have previously worked on.
I am wondering if there is a full length replacement piece for this or if the shop repairs it the way we have been doing it.
#27
In case someone finds useful, here's my blog post about the fix done for the broken wire scenario that usually causes this.
http://aravindad.blogspot.com/2016/0...ening-fix.html
http://aravindad.blogspot.com/2016/0...ening-fix.html
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Mad A
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12-08-2015 01:45 PM