All Infinti parts are Nissan parts, so ust go by the actual part number and then shop it locally or online from whoever has the best price fro that part number, be it Nissan or Infiniti.

I would have no problem using the Timken or Beck Arnley brands (in that order), but I am not familiar with Dura at all.

I take it you've been looking at RockAuto?

 

I like Timken. I have it on 3 corners of my G. Recently one of my rear Timken bearings went out because of bent hub and I switched to MasterPro because it was the only one available locally. O'reilly sells them with 1 year warranty. We'll see how it does.

 

Unsure how it is on the 07+ models, but for the 03-06 models. the Timkin bearings are repackaged NTN bearings...which is the OEM manufacturer.


I've done 3 wheel bearings on my '06. I ordered an OEM bearing for one side, and a Timkin for the other. (because Rockauto only had one Timkin in stock). When i received both, they were both NTN bearings made in Japan.

When i took the originals off, they were also NTN brand bearings.

So at least for the early models, the Timkins are repackaged NTN brand bearings which is what was installed OEM

 

^^ I wouldn't doubt that one bit.

 

@VQSmile: yes, I looked at rockauto.com and other websites. Tires Plus uses Dura International parts.

I need help with the part# though. It is confusing me by looking at the different part# on rockauto. I am looking for the front wheel bearing for 2007 G35 journey and here is what I found for Timken and Beck.
TIMKEN Part # HA590376 {#40202EJ70A, HA590176} = $151
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0516342 {#40202CG010, 40202EJ70A} = $88

Which one will fit on my car? What is the OEM part# for the front wheel bearing? Beck bearings are almost half price of Timken. How is its quality compare to Timken?

Thanks,

 

Either of those will fit your car.

The correct part number for your car is currently 40202-4GA0A, which superseded the previous number of 40202-EJ70A.

SO, it looks like the aftermarket brands offered at RockAuto just haven't updated their OEM numbers yet.

Like I said, I prefer the Timken brand over the Beck/Arnley brand, but I don't think I'd say it's worth twice as much. I suspect there might just be some price controlling at work here, since (and as mentioned above) the Timken part is so closely associated with BEING the actual OEM in a plain wrapper. That price is just a few dollars off of what the cheapest online prices are for the NIssan factory part (around 156). That is really sad too, because they have typically been significantly cheaper and always a bargain across all sorts of car makes and models. I hope this is not an indicator of their future pricing strategy.

If you have the money, you can't really do any better than the Timken or OEM, but the Beck Arnley could very likely outlive the car, so why not save a buck.

 

Thank you for your inputs.

On the side of this topic, I have owned 3 cars from Honda, Mitsubishi to Chrysler. I never had this wheel bearing issue even though 2 of my older cars are above 120k miles. My G35 is only at 66k and it has been showing this wheel bearing issue a few thousand miles ago. I saw many people here are having the same issue. Is it a common issue with Nissan/Infiniti? Personally I take it that way.

 

Yes, it is relatively common with our cars. In fact, I believe there is an ITB that was issued, in which they discussed that the bearings races used in their hubs were particularly 'soft' such that when subjected to a collision/pothole/curb/ etc. they could be imprinted by the harder bearing material, which could lead to premature noise and/or failure.

.02

(Of course if that's true, and Timken was the OEM provider, then even they are fallible apparently)

 

I had both front wheel bearings fail on my '06 at 70K miles.

Had another front fail around 140K miles.

 

For shish-and-giggles, I went to the Nissan stealership near my work over lunch. Long story short, here's what I was quoted:
Rear Hub assy: $273
Rear bearing assy: $170
Press bearing onto hub: $100
Full install on vehicle: $325 Labor + parts

Over $800 once you add tax to have them replace a single rear wheel bearing. This! This is why I like to do the work on my car myself!

I know an independent shop should be cheaper, but reasoning still stands. And yes, I know I may not need a new hub, but I have been driving with the bearing going bad for almost 2 years. Up to a month ago, the only symptom was the loud hum (no perceptible play or roughness in hand-spinning any of the wheels) , so I couldn't isolate the exact source. Now there's some metallic noises coming from drivers rear and slight vibrations at a few specific vehicle speeds, definitely indicating the bearing is deteriorating.

Just need to find a reasonable quote on pressing the bearing, then I can order the parts and get that done ahead of time and won't need to use my wife's car to drive to a shop while leaving her and the kids stranded at home with my car on stands.

 

Great write-up! My front passenger bearing just went this week so i'll replace it this weekend but maybe someone can help me with a question here...

There are a few photos missing and there's instructions to push the axle back from the bearing teeth. What I don't get is, how can you push the axle back if the bearing is on so tight you have to hammer it off the snout/end? Any input?

Second, since I don't have help i'm going to leave one tire on the ground instead of putting the front in the air so I can take the axle nut off, then i'll jack the drivers side up so I can turn the wheel left and right as needed. Has anyone found this method to work?

thanks!

 

Yes. That's how I did mine.


This DIY applies to 03-06 AWD bearings...but might be some techniques that cross over

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.html

 

I pop the center caps out of the wheels then loosen the axel nuts before lifting the car, hopefully you guys can do the same because it is easier/safer. Every wheel is different but I did it with two sets of wheels so far.

 

Thanks to DMG311 I replaced mine today with the help of this DIY. Popped the center caps and lowered the tire to remove the axle nut as suggested and it worked like a charm. I forgot to put the brake dust shield back on during reassembly so I carefully had to remove the bearing again but luckily it wasn't too difficult since I cleaned the mounting area well.

Two things i'd say I learned...

You can access the 4 bolts holding the bearing assembly in much easier with a combination of deep socket and shallow socket with an extension. It just seemed to work out better for me. I have a 1/2" drive flex head craftsman ratchet with a 16" handle that works really well for leveraging bolts like those.

The use of a pry bar as your tapping the sides of the bearing to remove it helped greatly.

I had asked earlier about pushing the axle back and that was exactly as described. Grab the axle and push it back. The nose will slide right back and out of the bearing.

I saved the wheel studs from my old bearing since I never know when i'll need them. Hope this helps a little.

 

I replaced my front passenger bearing last weekend and lo and behold my front drivers side went this week. Replaced it today using this DIY again. Thanks!