Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about
#198
#199
#201
Just in case there is any confusion or any doubters left among us regarding whether or not the new oil gallery gaskets are truly different now (i.e. specifically metal reinforced VS. paper material) . . .
I bit the bullet and purchased the smaller one for a whopping $4.25 w/tax and proceeded to dissect it. The larger one is made of the same material as this one, but it cost $21 and I'm too cheap for that.
Scraped away the coating down to the solid metal substrate.
The razor would not even cut through the metal. I had to use some good utility scissors.
And if you're still not convinced, here's the old magnet test:
SO, these new gaskets will definitely not be blowing out like the old ones.
Once again, the part numbers for these are: 13533-JK21A (the larger one) and 13533-JK21B (this smaller one).
.
I bit the bullet and purchased the smaller one for a whopping $4.25 w/tax and proceeded to dissect it. The larger one is made of the same material as this one, but it cost $21 and I'm too cheap for that.
Scraped away the coating down to the solid metal substrate.
The razor would not even cut through the metal. I had to use some good utility scissors.
And if you're still not convinced, here's the old magnet test:
SO, these new gaskets will definitely not be blowing out like the old ones.
Once again, the part numbers for these are: 13533-JK21A (the larger one) and 13533-JK21B (this smaller one).
.
Last edited by vqsmile; 11-06-2014 at 06:31 PM.
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Foo_G (08-01-2018)
#203
P0011 / P0021 codes Jason
I have seen numerous amounts of these cars come in with the dreaded P0011/P0021 intake timing control codes and I have read numerous posts of how nobody knows the answer. I have repaired a bunch of these and it is indeed an oil pressure issue and not a sensor problem. When the front timing cover is removed you will see 2 caps held to the rear timing cover with phillips head screws. The paper gasket gets blown out and it blows oil right into the timing cover and causes pressure drop to the intake timing solenoids. There is an updated gasket that has metal inside the gasket to keep it from blowing apart like the paper gasket seen in images. This is why the codes keep coming back no matter what oil flushes and sensors are replaced. Hope this helps you guys.
Thanks.
#205
#206
My 07 G35x sedan is nearing 90k miles, but I was wondering if this could be the cause of engine vibration at idle while in gear. (Mine stays at around 600rpm.) I noticed that the vibration isn't constant, but it is in rhythm. My whole car vibrates and I can even see my HIDs vibrating against the wall.
Sometimes, the engine sounds like it won't start when I first try to start the engine. It sounds like it is very weak for the first couple milliseconds as it is starting but then turn over normally afterwards. My battery isn't bad and has been tested to be good.
I have no check engine lights or anything. Can these issues be due to low oil pressure in the valves caused by the blown gasket? My engine doesn't seem to be running very healthy.
The engine is still smooth while in motion and the transmission is still shifting fine. I've been doing oil changes every 5k miles with Mobil 1, and the oil levels are fine and no oil consumption. I also have no noticeable loss in power.
I know the only confirmed diagnosis is to hook up an oil pressure gauge, but I was hoping if anyone can have insight on this. I feel like if I have to pay thousands to fix this problem then I should probably trade my car in before the check engine light comes on.
Sometimes, the engine sounds like it won't start when I first try to start the engine. It sounds like it is very weak for the first couple milliseconds as it is starting but then turn over normally afterwards. My battery isn't bad and has been tested to be good.
I have no check engine lights or anything. Can these issues be due to low oil pressure in the valves caused by the blown gasket? My engine doesn't seem to be running very healthy.
The engine is still smooth while in motion and the transmission is still shifting fine. I've been doing oil changes every 5k miles with Mobil 1, and the oil levels are fine and no oil consumption. I also have no noticeable loss in power.
I know the only confirmed diagnosis is to hook up an oil pressure gauge, but I was hoping if anyone can have insight on this. I feel like if I have to pay thousands to fix this problem then I should probably trade my car in before the check engine light comes on.
Last edited by mathnerd88; 11-13-2014 at 12:32 AM.
#207
My 07 G35x sedan is nearing 90k miles, but I was wondering if this could be the cause of engine vibration at idle while in gear. (Mine stays at around 600rpm.) I noticed that the vibration isn't constant, but it is in rhythm. My whole car vibrates and I can even see my HIDs vibrating against the wall.
Sometimes, the engine sounds like it won't start when I first try to start the engine. It sounds like it is very weak for the first couple milliseconds as it is starting but then turn over normally afterwards. My battery isn't bad and has been tested to be good.
I have no check engine lights or anything. Can these issues be due to low oil pressure in the valves caused by the blown gasket? My engine doesn't seem to be running very healthy.
The engine is still smooth while in motion and the transmission is still shifting fine. I've been doing oil changes every 5k miles with Mobil 1, and the oil levels are fine and no oil consumption.
I know the only confirmed diagnosis is to hook up an oil pressure gauge, but I was hoping if anyone can have insight on this.
Sometimes, the engine sounds like it won't start when I first try to start the engine. It sounds like it is very weak for the first couple milliseconds as it is starting but then turn over normally afterwards. My battery isn't bad and has been tested to be good.
I have no check engine lights or anything. Can these issues be due to low oil pressure in the valves caused by the blown gasket? My engine doesn't seem to be running very healthy.
The engine is still smooth while in motion and the transmission is still shifting fine. I've been doing oil changes every 5k miles with Mobil 1, and the oil levels are fine and no oil consumption.
I know the only confirmed diagnosis is to hook up an oil pressure gauge, but I was hoping if anyone can have insight on this.
Lots of things can cause vibration, especially if the car is in gear, but if your car is truly idling at 600 instead of 650+, that alone could cause a bit more vibration since it is rather low. You know my opinion though: running fine or not, EVERYONE should have their oil pressure checked just so they know where they stand.
I'd actually love for a dozen or so people on this forum (aka: pretty much EVERYONE who actively posts anymore ) to check their OP and report back here. Who knows?... Maybe my case was just a total fluke that doesn't bear out in any numbers. Only a bigger sample will tell.
#208
Dunno
Lots of things can cause vibration, especially if the car is in gear, but if your car is truly idling at 600 instead of 650+, that alone could cause a bit more vibration since it is rather low. You know my opinion though: running fine or not, EVERYONE should have their oil pressure checked just so they know where they stand.
I'd actually love for a dozen or so people on this forum (aka: pretty much EVERYONE who actively posts anymore ) to check their OP and report back here. Who knows?... Maybe my case was just a total fluke that doesn't bear out in any numbers. Only a bigger sample will tell.
Lots of things can cause vibration, especially if the car is in gear, but if your car is truly idling at 600 instead of 650+, that alone could cause a bit more vibration since it is rather low. You know my opinion though: running fine or not, EVERYONE should have their oil pressure checked just so they know where they stand.
I'd actually love for a dozen or so people on this forum (aka: pretty much EVERYONE who actively posts anymore ) to check their OP and report back here. Who knows?... Maybe my case was just a total fluke that doesn't bear out in any numbers. Only a bigger sample will tell.
Sorry if this has been answered before, but what should be the oil pressure at idle and at 2k rpm?
#209
650 rpm => 14 psi or more
2K rpm => 43 psi or more
Note: Oil temp =/= coolant temps, and this spec is listed for an oil temp of 176*, which is a temp that will pretty much only occur briefly during late warmup or again following a short shutdown period after having been fully warmed up. I covered this a bit more in the thread I made on checking your OP.
2K rpm => 43 psi or more
Note: Oil temp =/= coolant temps, and this spec is listed for an oil temp of 176*, which is a temp that will pretty much only occur briefly during late warmup or again following a short shutdown period after having been fully warmed up. I covered this a bit more in the thread I made on checking your OP.
#210
I know I could simply do this myself but am going to a local & extremely reputable Nissan & Infiniti performance shop and have them run the oil pressure test on my car. If it still comes back as good I will try again in the fall of '15 as my warranty expires in 2/16. Worst case I am out a couple hundred for shop time.