G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about

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Old 10-19-2015, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alextappin
Mechanial guage just to test!

So, I am in a similar boat. Low oil pressure but it doesn't sound bad at all and nothing has been happening. What happened first was the pressure guage would show 120+ and be stuck there.I replaced the oil pressure sensor thing and then that's when the oil light came on. I replaced it again and it still happened. I suggest you go to harbor freight or any store and just buy a mechanical oil pressure sensor. U screw it into where you screw the oil pressure switch and then start the cad and it will tell u the correct reading. I got the gauge for like $15-$20. This has really have me a peace of mind about it.

Also! When you start the car, does the oil pressure needle have an IMMEDIATE response like ur rpms and stuff do? Or is there a tiny lag, like ..5 seconds? This is what leads me to believe that the actual gauge is broken. Some people have had this problem and had to flick the gauge to fix it... I read somewhere that if there is a small lag in the pressure sensor gauage, that could mean that's what causing it... But for now, when u change ur oil next just purchase a mechanical gauge and test it out. Only way to reallllly tell!
I plan on buying a mech gauge and a new sensor this week, and then doing the test in the next month or so. I guess the only question I have is when to do the test? Do you hook up the gauge before or after the oil change? I know that obviously oil is going to leak out at some point, leading me to believe you would hook it up while it's empty, but then what do you do afterwards? Just let the new oil drain out and try to get the sensor back in as quick as possible? I read some people jack up only the passenger side to help the oil run to the other side, but I'm inclined to say that I'm going to get soaked no matter what, and watching the new oil drain out is like dollar signs hitting the driveway. Any clarification?

Also, I have no delay in the gauge, it jumps right up every time.
 
  #287  
Old 10-19-2015, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jotun
I plan on buying a mech gauge and a new sensor this week, and then doing the test in the next month or so. I guess the only question I have is when to do the test? Do you hook up the gauge before or after the oil change? I know that obviously oil is going to leak out at some point, leading me to believe you would hook it up while it's empty, but then what do you do afterwards? Just let the new oil drain out and try to get the sensor back in as quick as possible? I read some people jack up only the passenger side to help the oil run to the other side, but I'm inclined to say that I'm going to get soaked no matter what, and watching the new oil drain out is like dollar signs hitting the driveway. Any clarification?

Also, I have no delay in the gauge, it jumps right up every time.
So, if your car has been sitting a while and hasn't been run (all the oil is in the pan) not much will leak out. I just hooked up the mechanical guage, started the car and ran it and watched the gauge, then proceeded to remove the mechanical gauge and insert the new pressure sensor switch. Oil definitely leaked out after the car was running but only a little since the pressure sensor is easy to get on!

Go for it, let me know what you pressure reads on the mechanical gauge.
 
  #288  
Old 10-19-2015, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jotun
I plan on buying a mech gauge and a new sensor this week, and then doing the test in the next month or so. I guess the only question I have is when to do the test? Do you hook up the gauge before or after the oil change? I know that obviously oil is going to leak out at some point, leading me to believe you would hook it up while it's empty, but then what do you do afterwards? Just let the new oil drain out and try to get the sensor back in as quick as possible? I read some people jack up only the passenger side to help the oil run to the other side, but I'm inclined to say that I'm going to get soaked no matter what, and watching the new oil drain out is like dollar signs hitting the driveway. Any clarification?

Also, I have no delay in the gauge, it jumps right up every time.
I don't know why it would be at all difficult for you to tilt the car to minimize oil dripping (seeing as how you likely will have to raise it to access the sensor anyway ), but even if you didn't you wouldn't be losing more than half a cup or so. You may find some useful info in this thread: https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...-pressure.html
 
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  #289  
Old 10-19-2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
I don't know why it would be at all difficult for you to tilt the car to minimize oil dripping (seeing as how you likely will have to raise it to access the sensor anyway ), but even if you didn't you wouldn't be losing more than half a cup or so. You may find some useful info in this thread: https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...-pressure.html
Thanks for the link! I didn't say it would be difficult, I only said that I read people do that technique and I knew it wasn't enough to completely stop the oil from leaking 100% and was preparing for the worst
 
  #290  
Old 10-19-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jotun
Thanks for the link! I didn't say it would be difficult, I only said that I read people do that technique and I knew it wasn't enough to completely stop the oil from leaking 100% and was preparing for the worst
With a bit of tilt, the worst is probably measurable in tablespoons. It's definitely no biggie.
 
  #291  
Old 11-05-2015, 01:07 PM
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Hi everyone! I have some trouble with my 2007 G35
1. At the time of pressing the accelerator pedal at 1200-1600 rpm engine noise is similar to the noise from the engine of the tractor. -
2. When driving long distances (over 100 km) takes a push (resets to a lower transmission box, for example, from 5 to 4), after which the engine speed jump (because the speed of movement remains the same, but on a low gear). I continue to move and push this happening again. After that, make a decision to move at a speed of 120 km / h (before it was 160 km / h), but repeated shocks. After that, continue to move at a speed of 80 km / h, but the shocks continue. Below the speed decrease can not, because engine rpm for 5 gear at less than 80 km / h fall to 1500 rpm, and then there is the noise, which was discussed in paragraph 1 (like the tractor). After 5-10 shocks lights illuminate: SLIP and VDC off. Then I stop and restart the engine. All lights faded out and I keep moving. However, after 5 of the engine and restarts again when the indicator lights up SLIP and VDC off, indicator lights Check engine.
Tell me what to do? They took the engine sump, but the oil is clean and there is no pieces of gasket.

In the diagnosis at the service station and found the error P0021 and was reported to begin to replace the cap with solenoids CVTCS (13040-JK24B, 13040-JK24B), if not help, change the clutch CVTCS inlet (13025-JK20B) and final (13025-JK21A).
Could it be the reason in the pads 20A and 20B?
 
  #292  
Old 12-08-2015, 03:45 PM
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Guys, I need help. Own a '08 G35 in Korea(and I'm Korean.. sry for my bad English) My car ran fine, except that I felt there is a little bit of power loss. One day when I was driving at 80km/h (about 40~50 miles/h i guess), the car suddenly hesitated a little bit (SLIP/VDC OFF lights flickered) and ran fine again - 5 minutes after CEL came on. I had the dealership inspect my car and it was - P0011 code!!


Since I know something about car reparing, I'm trying to repair it myself. Reading this thread has made me believe that it is the paper gasket. But the dealership said it's because of VTC covers and I have to replace the whole VTC cover (and there are two VTC covers - RH and LH). They said the repair is about $1100 and it includes about $900 for the parts and $200 for the labor. I asked an independent shop guy and he said it's because of a magnet retarder and a clutch inside the VTC cover. (I attached a picture.) Another independent shop guy said it's the paper gasket.


Well, guys, gasket or VTC cover? I'd be very happy if it was the gasket cuz the parts are not expensive. However, VTC covers? Parts alone are almost $900 and there's no reason for me to fix it myself cuz the labor is not that expensive. (I guess the gasket is in the REAR timing cover and VTC covers are on the FRONT timing cover..)
 
  #293  
Old 12-08-2015, 03:48 PM
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couldn't upload the picture. How can I upload?
 
  #294  
Old 12-08-2015, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Minjun
Guys, I need help. Own a '08 G35 in Korea(and I'm Korean.. sry for my bad English) My car ran fine, except that I felt there is a little bit of power loss. One day when I was driving at 80km/h (about 40~50 miles/h i guess), the car suddenly hesitated a little bit (SLIP/VDC OFF lights flickered) and ran fine again - 5 minutes after CEL came on. I had the dealership inspect my car and it was - P0011 code!!


Since I know something about car reparing, I'm trying to repair it myself. Reading this thread has made me believe that it is the paper gasket. But the dealership said it's because of VTC covers and I have to replace the whole VTC cover (and there are two VTC covers - RH and LH). They said the repair is about $1100 and it includes about $900 for the parts and $200 for the labor. I asked an independent shop guy and he said it's because of a magnet retarder and a clutch inside the VTC cover. (I attached a picture.) Another independent shop guy said it's the paper gasket.


Well, guys, gasket or VTC cover? I'd be very happy if it was the gasket cuz the parts are not expensive. However, VTC covers? Parts alone are almost $900 and there's no reason for me to fix it myself cuz the labor is not that expensive. (I guess the gasket is in the REAR timing cover and VTC covers are on the FRONT timing cover..)
First off all, you need to do a proper measurement of your oil pressure. That would yield the clearest indication of whether or not it is the gaskets that are leaking.

Next, it seems rather unlikely that BOTH timing covers would fail simultaneously, and any reputable dealer should be able to discern which of the two was causing the failure, if it was indeed causing it at all.
 
  #295  
Old 12-08-2015, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
First off all, you need to do a proper measurement of your oil pressure. That would yield the clearest indication of whether or not it is the gaskets that are leaking.

Next, it seems rather unlikely that BOTH timing covers would fail simultaneously, and any reputable dealer should be able to discern which of the two was causing the failure, if it was indeed causing it at all.
Thanks man! I will check the oil pressure today. If the pressure is low, it would be the gaskets not the VTC covers, right? Or, i need to inspect the covers anyway? dealership guys said the p0011 code is from bank 1 - i guess it's the RH cover if the covers are indeed wrong
 
  #296  
Old 12-08-2015, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Alfa Cat
Hi everyone! I have some trouble with my 2007 G35
1. At the time of pressing the accelerator pedal at 1200-1600 rpm engine noise is similar to the noise from the engine of the tractor. - 2007 Infiniti G35 P0021 Error - YouTube
2. When driving long distances (over 100 km) takes a push (resets to a lower transmission box, for example, from 5 to 4), after which the engine speed jump (because the speed of movement remains the same, but on a low gear). I continue to move and push this happening again. After that, make a decision to move at a speed of 120 km / h (before it was 160 km / h), but repeated shocks. After that, continue to move at a speed of 80 km / h, but the shocks continue. Below the speed decrease can not, because engine rpm for 5 gear at less than 80 km / h fall to 1500 rpm, and then there is the noise, which was discussed in paragraph 1 (like the tractor). After 5-10 shocks lights illuminate: SLIP and VDC off. Then I stop and restart the engine. All lights faded out and I keep moving. However, after 5 of the engine and restarts again when the indicator lights up SLIP and VDC off, indicator lights Check engine.
Tell me what to do? They took the engine sump, but the oil is clean and there is no pieces of gasket.

In the diagnosis at the service station and found the error P0021 and was reported to begin to replace the cap with solenoids CVTCS (13040-JK24B, 13040-JK24B), if not help, change the clutch CVTCS inlet (13025-JK20B) and final (13025-JK21A).
Could it be the reason in the pads 20A and 20B?
Hey Alfa,
I am having the same exact tractor noise. It has been doing it for about a year now. I had my oil pressure tested several times and it was fine. One shop told me it was timing chain noise and another told me that it was a worn camshaft sprocket. I am not sure what to believe. It sucks because either one will be a very costly repair.

Did you ever get someone to diagnose your problem?

I do not have any engine codes but I am still getting this noise.
 
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Minjun
Thanks man! I will check the oil pressure today. If the pressure is low, it would be the gaskets not the VTC covers, right? Or, i need to inspect the covers anyway? dealership guys said the p0011 code is from bank 1 - i guess it's the RH cover if the covers are indeed wrong
Yes, if the pressure is below factory spec, it most likely means the oil gallery gaskets are blown out, which would make that the more likely cause of your error code. The oil gallery gasket repair requires that you remove those timing covers anyway, so you'd be able to inspect them at that time. Whenever you do take them off, be sure and replace the three gaskets on the shaft part (see pic in post #193) before you reinstall them.
 
  #298  
Old 12-09-2015, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
Yes, if the pressure is below factory spec, it most likely means the oil gallery gaskets are blown out, which would make that the more likely cause of your error code. The oil gallery gasket repair requires that you remove those timing covers anyway, so you'd be able to inspect them at that time. Whenever you do take them off, be sure and replace the three gaskets on the shaft part (see pic in post #193) before you reinstall them.

Thx a lot for the advice! Can i ask u just one more question? Is there any left-hand bolt in the process of tearing down the timing cover? Cuz the manual tells me nothing about bolt specs except factory torque. Since its my first time working on the engine, im reading the manual and this thread over and over again to make sure i dont make any stupid mistake.
 
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Old 12-09-2015, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Minjun

Thx a lot for the advice! Can i ask u just one more question? Is there any left-hand bolt in the process of tearing down the timing cover? Cuz the manual tells me nothing about bolt specs except factory torque. Since its my first time working on the engine, im reading the manual and this thread over and over again to make sure i dont make any stupid mistake.
To be totally honest with you, and please don't be offended, I think the very fact that you ask this question is making me have serious doubts as to whether you are up to the task, mechanically speaking anyway. And besides that, it's hardly even a fraction of what all is involved in replacing the oil gallery gaskets.

To answer your direct question though, to the very best of my knowledge, NO, there are no left-hand threaded bolts used on the valve timing control covers. Be aware though, replacing one of them may require you to do a relearn programming with the Consult diagnostic system.

Now may I ask whether or not you have tested your oil pressure yet?
 
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
To be totally honest with you, and please don't be offended, I think the very fact that you ask this question is making me have serious doubts as to whether you are up to the task, mechanically speaking anyway. And besides that, it's hardly even a fraction of what all is involved in replacing the oil gallery gaskets.

To answer your direct question though, to the very best of my knowledge, NO, there are no left-hand threaded bolts used on the valve timing control covers. Be aware though, replacing one of them may require you to do a relearn programming with the Consult diagnostic system.

Now may I ask whether or not you have tested your oil pressure yet?






I know, like the other guy said, a good man knows his limitations... and i know i need more knowledge and experience in this field in order to sucessfully do this repair. I have seen a lot of people (on the internet of course!) saying the job is absolutely worth a thousand bucks. Yeah, it's a HUGE job. I'm although pushing myself into this thing because I have been repairing my motorcycles myself for several years and that somehow made me confident on my car things..... (I know I'm stupid and reckless haha)


Anyway, about the oil pressure, I had the dealership guys check the pressure. They said the oil pressure is normal, not low. They somehow (WHY??) refused to give me the numbers. They just said the oil pressure is normal and it's the cover that is causing the problem not the gasket. By this moment I decided to get myself an oil pressure kit and check it myself. Wow. Now I'm about to embark on a long long journey. I get to learn a lot of things in this journey (including my limitations).


THX A LOT for the advice!!
 

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