Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about
#391
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Damn, just read your last post a little closer.
Did you happen to take any good pictures of the debris you pulled out of the oil passage? ESPECIALLY the metal particles?
I have a bad feeling you smoked the engine running it 4 qt low on oil and it's eating itself up somewhere, do you hear any difference in sound at either the top or bottom of the engine?
Possibly some major blockage inside the oil groove, run the motor until there's 500 or so miles on the last oil change, drain all the oil into a VERY CLEAN container and drag a magnet through the oil for a while, one of those telescoping magnetic pick up tools works great. If you pull ANY metal out of the oil then the engine is going through a rapid death cycle.
Did you happen to take any good pictures of the debris you pulled out of the oil passage? ESPECIALLY the metal particles?
I have a bad feeling you smoked the engine running it 4 qt low on oil and it's eating itself up somewhere, do you hear any difference in sound at either the top or bottom of the engine?
Possibly some major blockage inside the oil groove, run the motor until there's 500 or so miles on the last oil change, drain all the oil into a VERY CLEAN container and drag a magnet through the oil for a while, one of those telescoping magnetic pick up tools works great. If you pull ANY metal out of the oil then the engine is going through a rapid death cycle.
#392
Damn, just read your last post a little closer.
Did you happen to take any good pictures of the debris you pulled out of the oil passage? ESPECIALLY the metal particles?
I have a bad feeling you smoked the engine running it 4 qt low on oil and it's eating itself up somewhere, do you hear any difference in sound at either the top or bottom of the engine?
Possibly some major blockage inside the oil groove, run the motor until there's 500 or so miles on the last oil change, drain all the oil into a VERY CLEAN container and drag a magnet through the oil for a while, one of those telescoping magnetic pick up tools works great. If you pull ANY metal out of the oil then the engine is going through a rapid death cycle.
Did you happen to take any good pictures of the debris you pulled out of the oil passage? ESPECIALLY the metal particles?
I have a bad feeling you smoked the engine running it 4 qt low on oil and it's eating itself up somewhere, do you hear any difference in sound at either the top or bottom of the engine?
Possibly some major blockage inside the oil groove, run the motor until there's 500 or so miles on the last oil change, drain all the oil into a VERY CLEAN container and drag a magnet through the oil for a while, one of those telescoping magnetic pick up tools works great. If you pull ANY metal out of the oil then the engine is going through a rapid death cycle.
Also worth mentioning, the 3 o-rings on the shaft of the vtc were extremely sloppy loose. I'm not sure if this is deliberate or not but I'd suspect by the loseness of them no oil pressure is being maintained in that area is it is at all critical. I'll be replacing those tomorrow.
As for testing the solenoid, I did the ohm check and across the 2 terms I get exactly 7.7. I don't recall checking each terminal for short to ground but I'll confirm tomorrow. I did power the solenoid multiple times and it seems to be moving back and forth without resistance. The plunger on the end seems to extend all the way flush with the end of the sol so I'm assuming it's moving all the way.
As for noises, I thought I heard valve ticking on bank 2 before I changed that screen today and swore I can't hear it anymore after the cleaning. I don't hear anything else at idle. What I do hear, and I'm not sure it's normal or not, is that when I accelerate in park up to say 3 or 4k and then let off, as the engine is winding down I'm hearing what sounds like an actuator motor moving. I'm guessing this is the vvet motor and this is normal????
#393
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It's probably not the motor you hear but the timing chain, I'm definitely concerned about the debris you pulled up out of the oil passage. Definitely dredge the old oil with a magnet next time you do change it, if you're lucky the debris is just very old accumulation from the initial motor break-in.
Edit: sloppy o-rings is definitely a problem though, I suspect when you get them replaced the DTC will disappear. Make sure you get the correct o rings, standard rubber will degrade quickly from oil. I think it's a urethane o ring they use stock. Parts houses should have them in stock.
Edit: sloppy o-rings is definitely a problem though, I suspect when you get them replaced the DTC will disappear. Make sure you get the correct o rings, standard rubber will degrade quickly from oil. I think it's a urethane o ring they use stock. Parts houses should have them in stock.
#394
It's probably not the motor you hear but the timing chain, I'm definitely concerned about the debris you pulled up out of the oil passage. Definitely dredge the old oil with a magnet next time you do change it, if you're lucky the debris is just very old accumulation from the initial motor break-in.
Edit: sloppy o-rings is definitely a problem though, I suspect when you get them replaced the DTC will disappear. Make sure you get the correct o rings, standard rubber will degrade quickly from oil. I think it's a urethane o ring they use stock. Parts houses should have them in stock.
Edit: sloppy o-rings is definitely a problem though, I suspect when you get them replaced the DTC will disappear. Make sure you get the correct o rings, standard rubber will degrade quickly from oil. I think it's a urethane o ring they use stock. Parts houses should have them in stock.
I tried one last ditch effort which was to swap the bank 1 and 2 solenoids. I under stand they are different part numbers but they are almost identical. I was hoping my fault would go to bank 1 but it stayed on bank 2 telling me that sol is fine.
I've read that my engine is affected by the gasket issue but you mentioned it is not. I need clarification on your statement if possible because I'm going to begin teardown tomorrow.
What's really strange is that this morning the car seemed to drive fine for a short time and went like hell all the way to redline. it then started to act up so there might be a connection to engine oil temp and it running on higher pressure while cold and working until it warms up and the pressure drops. I never re-checked and confirmed the engine oil temps at the time of my readings.
#395
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Well the system is exactly the same but the gaskets were switched to a different style before that year HOWEVER it's entirely possible you actually have an earlier production motor! The only way to know would be to pull the block ID and have the dealership run it. It's not uncommon for manufacturers to have a fast production of motors from the engine shop and slower production from the chassis shop so motors a year old (or sometimes older, in rare cases MUCH older) getting put into a chassis that just finished production.
It's still a VQ37VHR but those were made across a decade of production. It's also possible that vehicle got a replacement motor at some point, maybe the first owner smoked the motor or it had a critical flaw and required replacement, hard to tell the exact history of the vehicle.
At this point if it were my vehicle I would pay for a Nissan/Infiniti diagnostic since you've pretty much covered everything else except oscilloscope tests. We can see a lot with an OBD2 scan but not as much as a dealer can with Consult III.
Edit: Or maybe it has the new gasket and it too failed...
Double Edit: Log oil pressure data until you can reproduce the issue, if pressure drops dramatically it could be a worn pump. Not expecting a miracle though since it would affect both banks (in theory).
It's still a VQ37VHR but those were made across a decade of production. It's also possible that vehicle got a replacement motor at some point, maybe the first owner smoked the motor or it had a critical flaw and required replacement, hard to tell the exact history of the vehicle.
At this point if it were my vehicle I would pay for a Nissan/Infiniti diagnostic since you've pretty much covered everything else except oscilloscope tests. We can see a lot with an OBD2 scan but not as much as a dealer can with Consult III.
Edit: Or maybe it has the new gasket and it too failed...
Double Edit: Log oil pressure data until you can reproduce the issue, if pressure drops dramatically it could be a worn pump. Not expecting a miracle though since it would affect both banks (in theory).
#396
Knowing it was an earlier VHR I can understand... originally thinking an HR motor at 4 quarts low would be a rare occurrence. That gasket failure doesn't cause any oil loss on the HR. Oil pressure can't be obtained via OBD or CANBus from everything I have seen on the HR. Perhaps VHR it is different.
Old 3.7 oil consumption TSB for '08-'10 but it didn't include the '11s
http://www.infinitig37.com/TSB/1SY30.pdf
Old 3.7 oil consumption TSB for '08-'10 but it didn't include the '11s
http://www.infinitig37.com/TSB/1SY30.pdf
#397
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#398
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One time I saw a "rusty spot" on an oil filter, had a little dent in it too, best I can figure is a rock was flung up at the filter at just the right angle to BARELY penetrate, it dripped at a super low rate while the engine was running and nothing while it was parked and not running, the paint all peeled off around the area and there was significant corrosion but it looked a lot worse than it actually was.
#399
I live in New England, the land of the straight sea salt use, they don't even mix in the sand anymore.. but it was definitely due to the age of the filter. I've had this happen before. I go longer than average" oil changes based I my personal experience working in automotive manufacturing for the past 15 or so years. I have my theories but I don't preach them on anyone. What hurt me here was lack of oil, not dirty oil imo. Also, I read people with religious oil change schedules of every 3k had the same issue so not even convinced dirty oil was the culprit
#400
UPDATE:
So, I have a 2011 G37x sedan at 73,000 miles that had the gasket failure. I havent seen any G's this new with the failure from my research. I can confirm my car had the paper gaskets also.
Where is the best place in the forum to post my pics of the tear down for reference? here or start a new thread?
Thanks
So, I have a 2011 G37x sedan at 73,000 miles that had the gasket failure. I havent seen any G's this new with the failure from my research. I can confirm my car had the paper gaskets also.
Where is the best place in the forum to post my pics of the tear down for reference? here or start a new thread?
Thanks
#401
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Probably these two forums would be most appropriate.
https://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy-11/
https://g35driver.com/forums/g37-v36-sedan-2009-436/
https://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy-11/
https://g35driver.com/forums/g37-v36-sedan-2009-436/
#402
UGH problem still persists! I'll create a new post and add the link here shortly... there are a few more variables to discuss based on some findings.
New post here: https://g35driver.com/forums/g37-v36...ml#post7119615
New post here: https://g35driver.com/forums/g37-v36...ml#post7119615
Last edited by infinitimike75; 10-09-2017 at 12:25 PM.
#403
Hey guys,
Never posted here before, don't even own a Infinity at this current time, well as of today. I am writing this as a warning/ reiteration of what has all ready been said, but with my story. I felt compelled to tell this cause it IS REAL!!!
A bit of a background is I have been a diesel mechanic for almost 10 years and worked on and off with cars throughout the time. Learned to turn a wrench in the Army and have been going from there. Anyways, so after almost a year of saving I decided to but 2007 Infinity G35x with 113,000. Car ran and drove absolutely beautifully, and having not drove a infinity before was blown away by the car. Did some basic searches of common issues, checked the carfax 1 owner, serviced at infinity and a local trade. We test drove for almost 100 miles with no issues, bought the car that Friday. Saturday and Sunday took the car for a total of 80 miles and another 50 on Monday. Tuesday we had a CEL light appear. Took it to a local place to get scanned got code P0021. Took the car to the dealership, and they turned around 30 minutes later telling me they checked the solenoid, which performed fine, cleared the code and drove for another 50 miles. They said it was fine and too pick it up. The night I got the code I did my research on the code and THANK GOD STUMBLED ON THIS THREAD!!!!!! After my wife was told to take the car, she called me and I finally spoke to the service manager. I stated to him that he HAD to check the oil pressure in order to call the car good. He bullshitted around, tried to talk me back to taking the car, and finally I convinced him to take it to Infinity to get checked. 0 PSI at 650 RPM's and 4 PSI at 2000 RPM's,
Simply due to the fact that this thread exists, and the fact I did my homework on the matter, I did not lose out on the 9k. Likely I could have drove this car for another 10000 miles or 3 months without the code coming back and no idea. Absolute **** show, but if this car hits 100,000 dont even think about buying it without a oil pressure check.
BTW Infinity quoted me at 4700$ for the repair......
Now, unfortunately I am a bit turned off of the Infinity, but still need a AWD car or SUV. Budget is under 10K, and I live in Wisconsin, any honest opinions on the best AWD 4WD vehicles in that price range? I am concerned more about reliability and safety then I am performance. Thanks,
ONE HAPPY FORUM MEMBER!!!!!
Never posted here before, don't even own a Infinity at this current time, well as of today. I am writing this as a warning/ reiteration of what has all ready been said, but with my story. I felt compelled to tell this cause it IS REAL!!!
A bit of a background is I have been a diesel mechanic for almost 10 years and worked on and off with cars throughout the time. Learned to turn a wrench in the Army and have been going from there. Anyways, so after almost a year of saving I decided to but 2007 Infinity G35x with 113,000. Car ran and drove absolutely beautifully, and having not drove a infinity before was blown away by the car. Did some basic searches of common issues, checked the carfax 1 owner, serviced at infinity and a local trade. We test drove for almost 100 miles with no issues, bought the car that Friday. Saturday and Sunday took the car for a total of 80 miles and another 50 on Monday. Tuesday we had a CEL light appear. Took it to a local place to get scanned got code P0021. Took the car to the dealership, and they turned around 30 minutes later telling me they checked the solenoid, which performed fine, cleared the code and drove for another 50 miles. They said it was fine and too pick it up. The night I got the code I did my research on the code and THANK GOD STUMBLED ON THIS THREAD!!!!!! After my wife was told to take the car, she called me and I finally spoke to the service manager. I stated to him that he HAD to check the oil pressure in order to call the car good. He bullshitted around, tried to talk me back to taking the car, and finally I convinced him to take it to Infinity to get checked. 0 PSI at 650 RPM's and 4 PSI at 2000 RPM's,
Simply due to the fact that this thread exists, and the fact I did my homework on the matter, I did not lose out on the 9k. Likely I could have drove this car for another 10000 miles or 3 months without the code coming back and no idea. Absolute **** show, but if this car hits 100,000 dont even think about buying it without a oil pressure check.
BTW Infinity quoted me at 4700$ for the repair......
Now, unfortunately I am a bit turned off of the Infinity, but still need a AWD car or SUV. Budget is under 10K, and I live in Wisconsin, any honest opinions on the best AWD 4WD vehicles in that price range? I am concerned more about reliability and safety then I am performance. Thanks,
ONE HAPPY FORUM MEMBER!!!!!
#404
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#405
I have seen numerous amounts of these cars come in with the dreaded P0011/P0021 intake timing control codes and I have read numerous posts of how nobody knows the answer. I have repaired a bunch of these and it is indeed an oil pressure issue and not a sensor problem. When the front timing cover is removed you will see 2 caps held to the rear timing cover with phillips head screws. The paper gasket gets blown out and it blows oil right into the timing cover and causes pressure drop to the intake timing solenoids. There is an updated gasket that has metal inside the gasket to keep it from blowing apart like the paper gasket seen in images. This is why the codes keep coming back no matter what oil flushes and sensors are replaced. Hope this helps you guys.