Damn, just read your last post a little closer.

Did you happen to take any good pictures of the debris you pulled out of the oil passage? ESPECIALLY the metal particles?

I have a bad feeling you smoked the engine running it 4 qt low on oil and it's eating itself up somewhere, do you hear any difference in sound at either the top or bottom of the engine?

Possibly some major blockage inside the oil groove, run the motor until there's 500 or so miles on the last oil change, drain all the oil into a VERY CLEAN container and drag a magnet through the oil for a while, one of those telescoping magnetic pick up tools works great. If you pull ANY metal out of the oil then the engine is going through a rapid death cycle.

 

Here is the debree out of the oil hole side, back side, of the oil screen. I should mention also started the motor momentarily to blow out anything left in there before re assembly.

Also worth mentioning, the 3 o-rings on the shaft of the vtc were extremely sloppy loose. I'm not sure if this is deliberate or not but I'd suspect by the loseness of them no oil pressure is being maintained in that area is it is at all critical. I'll be replacing those tomorrow.

As for testing the solenoid, I did the ohm check and across the 2 terms I get exactly 7.7. I don't recall checking each terminal for short to ground but I'll confirm tomorrow. I did power the solenoid multiple times and it seems to be moving back and forth without resistance. The plunger on the end seems to extend all the way flush with the end of the sol so I'm assuming it's moving all the way.

As for noises, I thought I heard valve ticking on bank 2 before I changed that screen today and swore I can't hear it anymore after the cleaning. I don't hear anything else at idle. What I do hear, and I'm not sure it's normal or not, is that when I accelerate in park up to say 3 or 4k and then let off, as the engine is winding down I'm hearing what sounds like an actuator motor moving. I'm guessing this is the vvet motor and this is normal????

 

It's probably not the motor you hear but the timing chain, I'm definitely concerned about the debris you pulled up out of the oil passage. Definitely dredge the old oil with a magnet next time you do change it, if you're lucky the debris is just very old accumulation from the initial motor break-in.

Edit: sloppy o-rings is definitely a problem though, I suspect when you get them replaced the DTC will disappear. Make sure you get the correct o rings, standard rubber will degrade quickly from oil. I think it's a urethane o ring they use stock. Parts houses should have them in stock.

 

20$ later with OEM seals the car is the same. I'll clarify these aren't o-rings at all, they are extremely loose plastic type seals. And they go on like piston rings.

I tried one last ditch effort which was to swap the bank 1 and 2 solenoids. I under stand they are different part numbers but they are almost identical. I was hoping my fault would go to bank 1 but it stayed on bank 2 telling me that sol is fine.

I've read that my engine is affected by the gasket issue but you mentioned it is not. I need clarification on your statement if possible because I'm going to begin teardown tomorrow.

What's really strange is that this morning the car seemed to drive fine for a short time and went like hell all the way to redline. it then started to act up so there might be a connection to engine oil temp and it running on higher pressure while cold and working until it warms up and the pressure drops. I never re-checked and confirmed the engine oil temps at the time of my readings.

 

Well the system is exactly the same but the gaskets were switched to a different style before that year HOWEVER it's entirely possible you actually have an earlier production motor! The only way to know would be to pull the block ID and have the dealership run it. It's not uncommon for manufacturers to have a fast production of motors from the engine shop and slower production from the chassis shop so motors a year old (or sometimes older, in rare cases MUCH older) getting put into a chassis that just finished production.

It's still a VQ37VHR but those were made across a decade of production. It's also possible that vehicle got a replacement motor at some point, maybe the first owner smoked the motor or it had a critical flaw and required replacement, hard to tell the exact history of the vehicle.

At this point if it were my vehicle I would pay for a Nissan/Infiniti diagnostic since you've pretty much covered everything else except oscilloscope tests. We can see a lot with an OBD2 scan but not as much as a dealer can with Consult III.

Edit: Or maybe it has the new gasket and it too failed...

Double Edit: Log oil pressure data until you can reproduce the issue, if pressure drops dramatically it could be a worn pump. Not expecting a miracle though since it would affect both banks (in theory).

 

I know the reason for low oil and it was due to a weeping rust spot on the oil filter. I also went way too long between the last oil change so I'm guilty there for not ensuring it was at the correct level.

 

Yeah I think you're right, all I see is hidden PID for oil temperature but nothing for pressure, guess it is just purely a sensor and idiot light on the dashboard...

 

One time I saw a "rusty spot" on an oil filter, had a little dent in it too, best I can figure is a rock was flung up at the filter at just the right angle to BARELY penetrate, it dripped at a super low rate while the engine was running and nothing while it was parked and not running, the paint all peeled off around the area and there was significant corrosion but it looked a lot worse than it actually was.

 

I live in New England, the land of the straight sea salt use, they don't even mix in the sand anymore.. but it was definitely due to the age of the filter. I've had this happen before. I go longer than average" oil changes based I my personal experience working in automotive manufacturing for the past 15 or so years. I have my theories but I don't preach them on anyone. What hurt me here was lack of oil, not dirty oil imo. Also, I read people with religious oil change schedules of every 3k had the same issue so not even convinced dirty oil was the culprit

 

UPDATE:

So, I have a 2011 G37x sedan at 73,000 miles that had the gasket failure. I havent seen any G's this new with the failure from my research. I can confirm my car had the paper gaskets also.

Where is the best place in the forum to post my pics of the tear down for reference? here or start a new thread?

Thanks

 

Probably these two forums would be most appropriate.

https://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy-11/

https://g35driver.com/forums/g37-v36-sedan-2009-436/

 

UGH problem still persists! I'll create a new post and add the link here shortly... there are a few more variables to discuss based on some findings.

New post here: https://g35driver.com/forums/g37-v36...ml#post7119615

 

Hey guys,

Never posted here before, don't even own a Infinity at this current time, well as of today. I am writing this as a warning/ reiteration of what has all ready been said, but with my story. I felt compelled to tell this cause it IS REAL!!!

A bit of a background is I have been a diesel mechanic for almost 10 years and worked on and off with cars throughout the time. Learned to turn a wrench in the Army and have been going from there. Anyways, so after almost a year of saving I decided to but 2007 Infinity G35x with 113,000. Car ran and drove absolutely beautifully, and having not drove a infinity before was blown away by the car. Did some basic searches of common issues, checked the carfax 1 owner, serviced at infinity and a local trade. We test drove for almost 100 miles with no issues, bought the car that Friday. Saturday and Sunday took the car for a total of 80 miles and another 50 on Monday. Tuesday we had a CEL light appear. Took it to a local place to get scanned got code P0021. Took the car to the dealership, and they turned around 30 minutes later telling me they checked the solenoid, which performed fine, cleared the code and drove for another 50 miles. They said it was fine and too pick it up. The night I got the code I did my research on the code and THANK GOD STUMBLED ON THIS THREAD!!!!!! After my wife was told to take the car, she called me and I finally spoke to the service manager. I stated to him that he HAD to check the oil pressure in order to call the car good. He bullshitted around, tried to talk me back to taking the car, and finally I convinced him to take it to Infinity to get checked. 0 PSI at 650 RPM's and 4 PSI at 2000 RPM's,

Simply due to the fact that this thread exists, and the fact I did my homework on the matter, I did not lose out on the 9k. Likely I could have drove this car for another 10000 miles or 3 months without the code coming back and no idea. Absolute **** show, but if this car hits 100,000 dont even think about buying it without a oil pressure check.

BTW Infinity quoted me at 4700$ for the repair......

Now, unfortunately I am a bit turned off of the Infinity, but still need a AWD car or SUV. Budget is under 10K, and I live in Wisconsin, any honest opinions on the best AWD 4WD vehicles in that price range? I am concerned more about reliability and safety then I am performance. Thanks,

ONE HAPPY FORUM MEMBER!!!!!

 

Subaru Outback, highest safety and reliability scores. Stay away from the turbo 2.5 just go with the NA one. Shouldn't have any issues finding a 2.5i in that price range. 2.5i Premium costs a considerable amount more but you do get some nice bells and whistles.

 

Please help to solve the problem of bad traction 2002 G35, VQ35DE engine, the car is not going, not gaining quick acceleration, bad riding at lower rpm. code P0011