Cleaned Throttle Body and now Idle Hunt, ECU Reflash or New TBs?
#1
08-31-2015, 02:46 PM
Cleaned Throttle Body and now Idle Hunt, ECU Reflash or New TBs?
So I cleaned the throttle bodies while installing an intake and read the DIY.
I read the DIY thread and did not disconnect the battery or the connector to the TB. I was opening up the flaps and cleaning it real good. Turned the car on and it started reving high, then when the car is all warmed up it revs by itself from 1000-2000 RPM (idle hunt). Tried the relearn procedures and even bought an computer to do the Idle Air Vol Relearn but no luck. I have read on a few threads online that some believe the ECU in the 2007 model is a little off so when the throttle body has not been cleaned for awhile and then you clean it, the idle air volume will be off by more than 5% and cause the throttle body to be out of range to relearn the procedures (hence the idle hunt). Some advised to get the ECU flashed to the latest version which I think is Version C? and that this will solve my issue. Others advise just buying new throttle body and go from there.
Has there been a fix yet? reflash at the dealership costs $180 and new set of tb cost $300
I read the DIY thread and did not disconnect the battery or the connector to the TB. I was opening up the flaps and cleaning it real good. Turned the car on and it started reving high, then when the car is all warmed up it revs by itself from 1000-2000 RPM (idle hunt). Tried the relearn procedures and even bought an computer to do the Idle Air Vol Relearn but no luck. I have read on a few threads online that some believe the ECU in the 2007 model is a little off so when the throttle body has not been cleaned for awhile and then you clean it, the idle air volume will be off by more than 5% and cause the throttle body to be out of range to relearn the procedures (hence the idle hunt). Some advised to get the ECU flashed to the latest version which I think is Version C? and that this will solve my issue. Others advise just buying new throttle body and go from there.
Has there been a fix yet? reflash at the dealership costs $180 and new set of tb cost $300
#2
08-31-2015, 04:17 PM
So I cleaned the throttle bodies while installing an intake and read the DIY.
I read the DIY thread and did not disconnect the battery or the connector to the TB. I was opening up the flaps and cleaning it real good. Turned the car on and it started reving high, then when the car is all warmed up it revs by itself from 1000-2000 RPM (idle hunt). Tried the relearn procedures and even bought an computer to do the Idle Air Vol Relearn but no luck. I have read on a few threads online that some believe the ECU in the 2007 model is a little off so when the throttle body has not been cleaned for awhile and then you clean it, the idle air volume will be off by more than 5% and cause the throttle body to be out of range to relearn the procedures (hence the idle hunt). Some advised to get the ECU flashed to the latest version which I think is Version C? and that this will solve my issue. Others advise just buying new throttle body and go from there.
Has there been a fix yet? reflash at the dealership costs $180 and new set of tb cost $300
I read the DIY thread and did not disconnect the battery or the connector to the TB. I was opening up the flaps and cleaning it real good. Turned the car on and it started reving high, then when the car is all warmed up it revs by itself from 1000-2000 RPM (idle hunt). Tried the relearn procedures and even bought an computer to do the Idle Air Vol Relearn but no luck. I have read on a few threads online that some believe the ECU in the 2007 model is a little off so when the throttle body has not been cleaned for awhile and then you clean it, the idle air volume will be off by more than 5% and cause the throttle body to be out of range to relearn the procedures (hence the idle hunt). Some advised to get the ECU flashed to the latest version which I think is Version C? and that this will solve my issue. Others advise just buying new throttle body and go from there.
Has there been a fix yet? reflash at the dealership costs $180 and new set of tb cost $300
I saw your P0507 error code thread, but it's now closed. 
This thread covers the idle relearn procedure ad nauseum : https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...le-bodies.html
And here's the FSM for the procedure straight from the factory: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2007_G35_Sedan/ Note: see section "EC" (engine control) pages EC-17 through EC-19.
In all likelihood, if you've messed with your throttle body, you will need to have an idle relearn procedure successfully completed on your car. The trouble is that the ECU's in these cars can't learn for ****. It is just a crap shoot if you will be one of the lucky ones or not and have the car respond like it is supposed to. I know a lot of people probably just bungle the pedal procedure, but there are definitely problems beyond just simply mistiming the counting of the pedal steps; SOME CARS JUST WILL NOT WORK EVEN IF YOU DO IT PERFECTLY !! The dealers also have trouble with them, and that's even with the use of the Consult diag systems them have!
Try doing the pedal dance and see if you can get it. If not, go ahead and drive it a few days to see if it will get any better. As a last ditch, you can "lobotomize" it by leaving the battery disconnected overnight. If you still can't get it to fully come down to 650 rpm, then you need to think about having a dealer try it with the Consult system. If you do, I'd suggest a Nissan dealer (cheaper), unless you have a particularly good relationship with an Infinti dealer such that they will not gouge/rape you.
I've personally watched a "simple" idle relearn procedure occupy an entire shop of 4 journeyman techs, pulled off all their other cars in the shop at the time, huddled together over the course of 3 hours, just to try and "trick" the ECU in an '07 sedan into cooperating with the idle relearn procedure. In those kind of situations, some dealerships will just bail and tell you that you need a whole new ECU!!
The time I watched them, they used the Consult system and had to perform the operation over and over repeatedly while they first pulled one, and then another fuel injector pigtail; essentially crippling the engine's ability to idle any higher. It was only then, by means of abnormally suppressing the high idle, that they were able to get within an rpm range where the ECU could complete a relearn procedure. Apparently, even with those methods, it was not able to be completed in a single relearn, but had to be done repeatedly in incremental relearning steps. They could only get it to improve by 100 rpms or so at a time, so they had to just take it in stages and repeat the process over and over until they finally got idling back down to normal.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
This thread covers the idle relearn procedure ad nauseum : https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...le-bodies.html
And here's the FSM for the procedure straight from the factory: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2007_G35_Sedan/ Note: see section "EC" (engine control) pages EC-17 through EC-19.
In all likelihood, if you've messed with your throttle body, you will need to have an idle relearn procedure successfully completed on your car. The trouble is that the ECU's in these cars can't learn for ****. It is just a crap shoot if you will be one of the lucky ones or not and have the car respond like it is supposed to. I know a lot of people probably just bungle the pedal procedure, but there are definitely problems beyond just simply mistiming the counting of the pedal steps; SOME CARS JUST WILL NOT WORK EVEN IF YOU DO IT PERFECTLY !! The dealers also have trouble with them, and that's even with the use of the Consult diag systems them have!
Try doing the pedal dance and see if you can get it. If not, go ahead and drive it a few days to see if it will get any better. As a last ditch, you can "lobotomize" it by leaving the battery disconnected overnight. If you still can't get it to fully come down to 650 rpm, then you need to think about having a dealer try it with the Consult system. If you do, I'd suggest a Nissan dealer (cheaper), unless you have a particularly good relationship with an Infinti dealer such that they will not gouge/rape you.
I've personally watched a "simple" idle relearn procedure occupy an entire shop of 4 journeyman techs, pulled off all their other cars in the shop at the time, huddled together over the course of 3 hours, just to try and "trick" the ECU in an '07 sedan into cooperating with the idle relearn procedure. In those kind of situations, some dealerships will just bail and tell you that you need a whole new ECU!!
The time I watched them, they used the Consult system and had to perform the operation over and over repeatedly while they first pulled one, and then another fuel injector pigtail; essentially crippling the engine's ability to idle any higher. It was only then, by means of abnormally suppressing the high idle, that they were able to get within an rpm range where the ECU could complete a relearn procedure. Apparently, even with those methods, it was not able to be completed in a single relearn, but had to be done repeatedly in incremental relearning steps. They could only get it to improve by 100 rpms or so at a time, so they had to just take it in stages and repeat the process over and over until they finally got idling back down to normal.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
#3
08-31-2015, 04:50 PM
#4
08-31-2015, 06:30 PM
The funny thing is that the "Infinti" brand is purely an abstraction tailored just for the snobby USDM market; pretty much everywhere else in the world our cars are branded and serviced as Nissans.
#6
08-31-2015, 06:40 PM
Maybe their owner also owns an Infiniti dealership so they just adopted it as a policy.
Well, the place where I watched was at Autocom Nissan in Walnut Creek, but they also have dealerships in San Leandro, Oakland, and Concord if any of those work. It really shouldn't be that hard though, and there certainly are plenty of Nissan dealers around the bay.
Well, the place where I watched was at Autocom Nissan in Walnut Creek, but they also have dealerships in San Leandro, Oakland, and Concord if any of those work. It really shouldn't be that hard though, and there certainly are plenty of Nissan dealers around the bay.
#7
09-18-2015, 03:53 PM
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#8
09-19-2015, 09:53 AM
#9
09-19-2015, 11:13 AM
I've had some Nissan dealerships tell me to go to an Infiniti dealership before. Most likely they were owned by the same person or something.
I had this happen a couple of years ago when I cleaned my throttle body. I had to do the pedal dance like a million times to get it to work correctly. You need make sure all electronics are off and once it drops down to regular idle speed, turn it off, and back on again right away. I don't think those steps were mentioned in the DIY's I read.
I had this happen a couple of years ago when I cleaned my throttle body. I had to do the pedal dance like a million times to get it to work correctly. You need make sure all electronics are off and once it drops down to regular idle speed, turn it off, and back on again right away. I don't think those steps were mentioned in the DIY's I read.
#10
09-19-2015, 12:19 PM
In general, I have to disagree that this is a rare phenomenon. If you look through the threads on this and numerous other forums, there are many people that experience this issue. I remain unconvinced that it is a totally "safe" thing to do, at least to the extent that it should be recommended without some reservation. It's NOT that I don't think TB's should be cleaned, just that people need be well aware of what CAN happen, and well prepared to address the consequences if they do end up being one of the unlucky ones.
.02
#11
09-19-2015, 04:39 PM
If you have not cleaned the TB in awhile than do not deep clean the TB, just spray with TB cleaner and wipe. DO NOT TOUCH THE BUTTERFLY VALVE to clean the gap and you will be fine. IF you have problems with your car the only real solution at this time is to flash your ECM to Version C. This problem occurs on cars with Version A ECM. Flashing the ECM will make the computer think it is brand new and will learn the current idle air. I will have to flash my car soon when I have more time.
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#12
09-19-2015, 04:45 PM
If you have not cleaned the TB in awhile than do not deep clean the TB, just spray with TB cleaner and wipe. DO NOT TOUCH THE BUTTERFLY VALVE to clean the gap and you will be fine. IF you have problems with your car the only real solution at this time is to flash your ECM to Version C. This problem occurs on cars with Version A ECM. Flashing the ECM will make the computer think it is brand new and will learn the current idle air. I will have to flash my car soon when I have more time.
#13
09-20-2015, 05:16 PM
No documentation, but I know there is 3 different ROMS for our ECM (A, B, and C which is the most up to date). I went to Eugene in Concord to try and find a way to fix it without flashing it but we tried everything. He has also talked to a lot of infiniti techs and they all say that flashing is the only way to fix it. I am assuming from a software development background that the new ECM ROM just has better parameters for Idle air relearn.