Blower fan for climate ctrl not spinning - intermittent
#17
#18
Unfortunately it's not on the paperwork. Since they replaced the blower motor and that wasn't the problem, they just put one in and didn't report it to the warranty company. They make more money off of a blower motor assembly than a $30 part, very ethical. Anyways, if you call Bloomington Infiniti and ask for Rudy (service manager), he will be able to tell you exactly what you are looking for. Tell him you have the same problem as Josh with the 06 G35x sedan last week. Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
B Lee White (01-08-2015)
#19
I'll buzz him Monday, and again thanks for chiming in with your experience. I don't see any relays in the electrical schematic so I'm really curious now what he'll tell me was the fix. Measuring at the blower harness connector, I've got 11.5v coming off of the 2 [15A] fuses, ground is good, and I've also confirmed continuity from pin 25 on the auto amp to the blower harness (this is the control wire). Looking at the FSM schematic, that really only leaves the blower and a/c auto amp as possible problems. That's also what the FSM troubleshooting flowchart boils down to.
#20
One more thing, did you ever notice that you could often get your fan to start working by prolonged hard acceleration? I've duplicated this several times now. After the car has been running for 5-10 minutes, if I accelerate hard on an on ramp, or even slow down on the interstate and do a hard 2nd and 3rd gear run, the blower will start working almost every time. This is such an odd issue.
#21
Sure enough, there is a relay 25230-79942 that sits right behind the fuse box and it's specifically for the blower fan. If I would have looked in the FSM for the generic whole car wiring it probably would have shown it. I can see why your dealer took awhile to narrow this down as the issue. The FSM troubleshooting for blower issues doesn't mention or show it at all.
#22
Part came in to the local nissan dealer today. Charged me $23 but quoted $28 when I ordered. Cheapest I could find online was $25 from rock auto and all the local parts stores would have had to special order.
Here are my steps:
0 - disconnect negative battery terminal
1 - remove dead pedal (6mt) which just pops out.
2 - Pull up the long piece of trim that covers part of the lower left side cover.
3 - With that piece pulled up, you can now pop off the entire lower left side cover
4 - Remove 2 10mm bolt/screws just above the fuse box.
5 - Pull hood pop cable up and out of the way from the bracket just right of the fuse box.
6 - use flathead screwdriver to detach 2 clips at the bottom of the fusebox.
The results of all this are pictured below.
This is about as far out as you'll be able to pull the fuse box due to tight cabling. In the interest of not breaking anything, I didn't want to unplug anything. Picture below shows orientation of the relay as it sits directly behind the box.
Here's a picture looking up from the floor of the car. The blue relay on the right is the winner. I was able to grab it top and bottom and slowly wiggle out.
When you put things back together, don't forget to put the hood pop cable back in place.
After replacing, my fan came on immediately. No doubt that this was my issue. Old and new part were both made by NAIS and looked exactly the same.
Props to JC77 for sharing his experience at Infiniti of Bloomington which led me to this fix.
Here are my steps:
0 - disconnect negative battery terminal
1 - remove dead pedal (6mt) which just pops out.
2 - Pull up the long piece of trim that covers part of the lower left side cover.
3 - With that piece pulled up, you can now pop off the entire lower left side cover
4 - Remove 2 10mm bolt/screws just above the fuse box.
5 - Pull hood pop cable up and out of the way from the bracket just right of the fuse box.
6 - use flathead screwdriver to detach 2 clips at the bottom of the fusebox.
The results of all this are pictured below.
This is about as far out as you'll be able to pull the fuse box due to tight cabling. In the interest of not breaking anything, I didn't want to unplug anything. Picture below shows orientation of the relay as it sits directly behind the box.
Here's a picture looking up from the floor of the car. The blue relay on the right is the winner. I was able to grab it top and bottom and slowly wiggle out.
When you put things back together, don't forget to put the hood pop cable back in place.
After replacing, my fan came on immediately. No doubt that this was my issue. Old and new part were both made by NAIS and looked exactly the same.
Props to JC77 for sharing his experience at Infiniti of Bloomington which led me to this fix.
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#24
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Hey Guys,
I'm having a similar issue, I think.
My fans are not working properly. When I turn on my AC, one of them is working fine, the other much slower.
Sometimes both dont work. I pushed it manually yesterday and they both started going (one still at around 10% the speed of the normal one - drivers side)
I have replaced the thermostat and bled the lines well.
Should I replace the fan motor, or the mentioned relay?
I don't want to spend any more money than necessary.
The G is getting old, and I've spent about $3K in the last few months to bring it back to optimal condition... (all flulds, tires, compression rod bushings, end links, hubs, wheel bearings, etc,etc ,etc )
I'm having a similar issue, I think.
My fans are not working properly. When I turn on my AC, one of them is working fine, the other much slower.
Sometimes both dont work. I pushed it manually yesterday and they both started going (one still at around 10% the speed of the normal one - drivers side)
I have replaced the thermostat and bled the lines well.
Should I replace the fan motor, or the mentioned relay?
I don't want to spend any more money than necessary.
The G is getting old, and I've spent about $3K in the last few months to bring it back to optimal condition... (all flulds, tires, compression rod bushings, end links, hubs, wheel bearings, etc,etc ,etc )
#25
this solved my problems of intermittent fan. it was almost never working for the past two months. installed this new relay thanks to your DIY guide. i didnt even have to special order the part the nissan parts dept had one in stock. $28.85... best 30 bux i have ever spent especially when the dealership told me this fix could cost me up to a thousand dollars if they had to order the logic board and everything. THANK YOU SO MUCH MAN
#26
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
I thought my problem was the relay, but it ended up being the actual fan motors.
Remove the battery cover and windshield plastic to access the fuse box, then drive to a shop and ask the guys to check on the relay current and the fan motors' current. Thats a good way to determine whether the issue is the fan motors or the relay.
Remove the battery cover and windshield plastic to access the fuse box, then drive to a shop and ask the guys to check on the relay current and the fan motors' current. Thats a good way to determine whether the issue is the fan motors or the relay.
#28
#30
Glad to see others are benefiting from this info, especially since the FSM makes no mention of this relay in the factory troubleshooting steps. I can see where the techs that are going by the book would miss this. I would caution anyone else finding this thread that if your symptoms are different (or maybe even similar), the relay may not be your answer. However it does seem that more and more people are starting to loose this relay.