Hello,

So as the title states.. yeah i did something stupid.

It was dark out, and I was attempting to unclog my heater core by pumping water through the outlet of the heater core on the driver side. Well, the hose for the driver pcv valve was undone from the intake being removed, and the heater core hose was there and I accidentally pumped water into the wrong hose.

My question is, if I were to drain the oil from the pan and put in new oil and a filter, can I assume most of the water got out? Im guessing I pumped around 1/4 of a gallon into the valve cover. And if not, can the car be started after an oil change? Thanks for any help.

Please hold the negative comments.. I know it was stupid.. I learned my lesson, never work on it in the dark.

 

I would drain the oil, leave it open over night, maybe even 2-3 days if you can (keep the oil filter off, the drain plug off and the filler cap off [hood closed]). Hopefully enough of the water will evaporate enough to not cause any harm to the motor. Then by the time you fill it with oil if there's still any moisture in there it should evaporate fairly quickly when the motor heats up.

 

Thank you for the reply.

I did everything you mentioned, along with putting 2qts in and letting it run for a bit to pick up some of that water that might be left in there. I then drained that and the filter andI then put 5 qts in and ran it. I checked the dipstick and there seems to be absolutely no water/oil mixture from a visual check.
Only problem now is my car is throwing the p0300 code random/multiple misfire. Any ideas or what to check for? My assumption is maybe water made its way in the plenum/ manifold? Also, i remember when i was pumping water into the pcv valve, i smelled fuel and thats when i stopped.
I checked the spark plugs and coils for oil a week or so back before this all happened and they were completely dry, but thats all i checked for.

 

I would try just removing the plugs and cleaning them up with a wire brush a bit. They may have somehow been fouled. I used to have a truck that I ran with a cracked head for years where coolant/water would foul up the 4th plug all the time and I'd just have to take it out and brush it off now and then to keep it from not just misfiring, but completely missing.

 

So i check the coil packs and they seem to all be good. I took off the spark plug in the front of the engine on the driver side and the coil had fresh oil over it and that explains my oil consumption also. The spark plug had oil all over it. So i guess the water probably further decreased the integrity of the tube seal? I might try to clean the spark plugs off like you suggested and see if it runs fine. The other 2 on that side were fine. Maybe just a droplet or two of oil on the middle one.

 

No that happens to all of our motors. Every VQ will have oil on at least one plug. The oil consumption is cuz our piston rings are cheap Chinese garbage. The only reason you would be misfiring is if you have fouled plugs, a bad coil or your taking in air at the intake manifold, which is obviously not likely unless you recently took it off and messed up the gasket install. If this was the case you would most likely have a CEL the would blink intermittently. That would be very bad. A blinking CEL means you're sending raw fuel through the exhaust and compromising O2 sensors and catalytic converters.

 

Thats what i have. The CEL is blinking and i shut it off immediately. And yeah youre right, i cleaned off the plug and put it back together and still blinking cel light with the same p0300 code

Just because you mentioned the raw fuel through exhaust i figured i would tell you what i did recently.
Vq35hr header manifolds on the de engine
Resonated test pipes.
The misfire code did not pop up until after i pumped water into the pcv valve.

My previous mods were the plenum spacer, catback, intake, and high flow cats.

 

Ok, I see. So, good news is I think you're fine with the water problem. This CEL is more than likely related to something else. Did you just do the spacer or did you do the aramid gasket between the plenum and intake manifold? And if so did you use both the stock metal gasket AND aramid gasket or just the aramid gasket? Also, there is a rubber collar around the oil filler neck; are you sure you didn't pinch that between the upper and lower plenums (this happens a lot) when installing the spacer?

I don't think this is an exhaust manifold problem, but I suppose it's not out of the question if there's some weird velocity problem..I don't know anything about the compatibility of the different exhaust manifolds being swapped between motors. I assume you did your research there. I'd start with going over your plenum install work.

 

Thats funny that you mention the oil filler neck collar because one time i did accidentally catch that between the spacer lol it is the motordyne spacer and that was done over a year ago and never showed symptoms like this around that time. The headers i did research thoroughly and people have run them fine on these engines. They are extremely similar in size compared to aftermarket and should be a typical bolt on application.

 

Did you use the aramid gasket between the lower plenum and intake manifold? And if so did you use just the aramid one or the aramid and metal one? Also, if you did use the aramid, did you coat it in oil first?

What I'm getting at is I'm wondering if the aramid gasket has failed over time. Whether it was put on dry, or without the metal gasket could point to whether or not the failure would be likely. You gotta find this cuz that blinking CEL can cost you a hell of a lot of money if not taken care of.

 

Depending on which PCV hose you pumped water into, it may have gone into the intake system. Try pulling ALL the spark plugs out and cleaning, one may be wet. Also, a common mistake is plugging the coils back in the wrong order, double check those. I think I almost did it on the ones under the intake (driver's side).

Also, changing the oil should be fine. Any residual water will burn off as water vapor after you drive the car a while.

 

Thank you for the replies. Im going to reiterate the problems currently to see if anyone can determine the issues..

1. Overheating after header and test pipe install. Bled coolant multiple times and still no hot air through vents. I romped on it the first drive with a new bad header and it overheated so i pulled over, filled it the rad cap with coolant and drove it home perfectly fine. I then messed with coolant because of a leak.
2. I had a bad new header which i then replaced because of a hole in it and my issues with misfiring went away. I also replaced the coolant flange gasket because i saw a leak from there.
3. I then bled the coolant and didnt drive it but tried bleeding and still no heat. It didnt overheat at idle, only with load on engine.
4. I then noticed while draining coolant that i saw coolant still leaking from that area where the flange meets the block, i assumed it was the gasket or i installed it wrong. It was dry underneath the flange when i felt it.
5. I then replaced the thermostat with no luck to the overheating issue.
6. I figured i would flush the heater core, maybe it was clogged. I pumped tap water into the driver side and afterwards, pumped into the outlet of heatercore to find it wasnt clogged.
7. I drained the old oil and filter, put 2qts in with a new filter, and ran for a few min. Drained that and waited a few days with the stuff unplugged and open. I then put 5 qts in and the same filter which i drained, and it ran fine, but with a cel light. I checked the new oil that i have ran a few times now and its perfecr, doesnt look anything like the oil with the water mixed, so i assume thats good.
8. The codes thrown were p0300, p0113, p1278, p1279 with no prior codes being thrown.
9. I cleaned my fwt filter which isnt supposed to have k&n oil on it, which it did, cleaned the maf and my codes went to just p0300.
10. I drove it with full rad and reservoir bled at bleeder. I unplugged the maf sensor and my cel light stopped blinking and just remained on, i drove it and it ran fine in limp mode. I got back to the house, and it started to overheat at idle which was weird. Fans were blowing and vents were on full heat.

Sorry for the lengthy reply. So where im at now is a maf sensor and waterpump is on its way because theres a weephole in the pump area which is what i assume is leaking. That might explain my overheating issue. I also installed a light crank pulley in the middle of all this to mkae myself feel a little better haha. Any thoughts?